JD 55 ABH plow

[rustred]

It does not have that set up for the pin. Could probably make it. Will try to get u a pic of the Set up Tommorrow.
 

[crsutton81]

Ok thank you.
 

[crsutton81]

I sent you an email if everything worked as it should.
 

[caterpillar guy]

We have a 6 bottom looks a lot like that and it used to do that till We got tired of replacing that little junk tire. We put a 13 inch car tire spindle on there just welded the spindle from a car on in place of the original and set the tire up straight now solved the whipping problem of the tail wheel. Other choice is to check all the bushings in the cross pins/shafts and the vertical shaft for the tail wheel so they are tight that would eliminate that part of it. We also lengthend those boars and links so the tial wheel could swivel all the way around for backing into corners when plowing headlands or backing into parking spots in the yard. Ours has the cute cast junk little stop pin set up.Probably would work alright on a little plow like a 2-4 bottom. On our 6 bottom the Cat didn't show any mercy when backing up or turning corners with it. Though we didn't take the Cat down the road either. Yes we plowed with a D-4or D-6 Cat for 50 years with the D-4 and about 20 with the D-6. Till I bought my 806 I never had plowed with a wheel tractor till 1978. You could also try mounting a couple front end weights to the side of the tail to hold it down more to reduse the whipping of the tail wheel. Our 6 bottom was pretty light on the tail wheel. The land wheel really needed to have been ahead about one bottom more. I believe that would have helped with that problem on it.
 

[Leroy]

That hitch is exactly what I had and to go down road do not raise to full height, only far enough that the rear bottom clears the road, That tightens up the lock for the wheel, will still do some but not as much as if you raise it full height. I got mine used in 1970 and used till had to quit farming, Best plow I ever had, 3-12 inch hydrolic lift. It had the drawbar shown on yours that is a non release type of hitch that is to be connected to the hand clutch to dissenguage clutch to stop if you hit something. I only had part of it and junked it and put on a release type of hitch designenen for Farmall or Oliver or others. That hitch is designed to stop tractor without unhooking hydrolic lines without a breakaway connection in hoses > could hand sharpen the shares with our forge but was so much harder to do that we took them to a place that could properly sharpen them. Our forge was just too small and we did not have the power hammer to do them. 2.5 inch cylindrr marketed for a B Deere but plowed with a 1951 A. We also had the Yetter coulters on all the plows and it made day and night better on all over the orignal Deere coulters.
 

[Jim in NC]

Do you think that if the plow had been painted red despite the plows origin, it would behave better behind a red tractor, or the tractor would not try to leave it in a ditch?
 

[Graysonsutton]

I got a solution and it s to paint a red tractor green. But then again that red tractor may be embarrassed to even be hooked to a nice shiny green thing
 

[crsutton81]

Jim, I had never given that much thought. Maybe that's what is happening....the red tractor is trying to ditch an off brand implement. Lol. Everything behaves as it should and does a really good job though once in the field.
 

[rustred]

here is the small furrow wheel lock set up.



and its the old rope power trip set up, 4/16 with blacksmith shares.
 

[crsutton81]

Thank you rustled. It makes sense after seeing a good picture of the way it's setup. I wish we could find the correct parts to change this plow over to enable locking the tail wheel.
 

[rustred]

Take those pieces to a welder and he can make that. Easy enough to do.