Farmall h no start

[Degyu]

So I have a 41 h I took the front apart to add live hydraulics to it from the 350 model after putting it back together it no longer runs sat for 7months I have now replaced cap,rotor,points,condenser,push button start,on/off switch and new battery still no start I tried bypassing the amp gauge and hooking up wire from distributor to battery direct still nothing its still a 6volt system with a distributor setup
 

[old]

Have you checked for spark?? One should always trouble shoot then parts never the other way around. Did you get it back in time when you installed the pump??
 

[Degyu]

Yes I checked for spark I get spark when plug is hooked directly to distributor but not when distributor is hooked to the cap
 

[old]

What your saying makes no sense. So are you saying you have spark at the center wire of the cap but not at any of the plug wires?? If yes you could have the timing way off so when the points open the rotor is not at one of the 4 nipples so the spark cannot get to the plug wire. Or you could have a bad rotor or a bad cap and just because they maybe new all that means is they are new but not for sure working and if made in the land of almost right good chance one or both are bad
 

[Degyu]

Yes it makes no sense to me with what its doing Ill pull the pump off and double check the timing
 

[used red MN]

Hello Degyu welcome to YT! You do not have to necessarily pull the pump off yet. First we should check some details, to add that pump in the correct way you should also install upgraded timing gears that are strengthened to withstand the extra force to drive the pump. Did you do that? The stock gears will not keep you engine from starting at least for now, but it lets us know how deep the problem may be. You can check the distributor timing by getting the engine on the compression stroke of number one cylinder. If the cam gears were installed and timed right then do the following. A helper would be good for this process and a hand crank is the best. Take number one plug out closest to the radiator. Turn the engine while holding a finger or thumb over the spark plug hole and when you feel pressure pushing continue turning slowly. There are 3 timing marks on the front pulley. The first one that is passed is the full mechanical advance mark. Next are 2 close together to each other. The first mark of these passing the pointer in normal crank rotation is top dead center. The next is 2 or 3 degrees after this is were the timing should set for static timing. So at that point the rotor should point to the terminal in the distributor cap for number one spark plug wire. Also the distributor should be turned to the location where points are just opening, this is when the spark occurs. That can be checked with a test light probing the terminal on the side of the distributor with the ignition on. The trouble with a 6 volt system is the coil voltage drops a bit faster when the engine is cranked a lot so the spark gets weak. Your explanation of what was happening with the spark I think fails to make sense because some normal terminology is being miss used. I will stop here to see if you have already dove into removing the pump.