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2N governor


 
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steve hubbard
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:40 am    Post subject: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hi,I have a question about complete replacement 3 arm governor I recently purchased. The complete governor is the same in appearance as the original except that it has a fitting that is installed in the end of the housing that my origial worn out housing didn't have.What I need to know is if I need to run a line to feed oil ( I Believe I seen this on 8n model tractors)or if it would have sufficient lubrication with out running a oil line and lowering oil pressure. Any advise is greatly apprieciated. thanks steve

 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:54 am    Post subject: Re: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The newer cups would have proofmeter nipple and oil line.. and yes. the newer gov's went to the oil line as an upgrade.

So.. why do you think it woul dbe lowering your oil pressure? It's alredy dumping to sump.. you are just changing where it dumps...

All the lubrication of the major parts has happened even before the oil filter???????

Soundguy

 

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Bob
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:55 am    Post subject: Re: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The old tractors simply dumped the oil returning from the bypass oil filter to the crankcase. This was later changed, and the filter return line was instead extended, and run around the front of the block, and on to the back of the governor.

I would GUESS even without the oil line, the new governor will last as long as the old one did, however, it certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to change over the filter return line to dump the oil into the governor, unless you are a "purist", and wnat to keep the tractor "as-original".

If you don't want to locate a used line, or a "repro", get a pre-made length of 1/4" steel brake line of appropriate length, and bend up your own. The "inverted flare" nuts on the brake line should be an exact fit into the bottom fitting on the oil filter, and the brass elbow on the governor. An 1/8" pipe plug will plug the old return hole in the side of the block.

 

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steve hubbard
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:30 am    Post subject: Re: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

THANKS for the input,here is why I was asking about oil pressure drop. I installed the governor and plugged the fitting to temporarily run and check the operation of the new governor and it worked fine, so I figured if it had a fitting for an oil connection that I would tee into the existing block adapter as was suggested and when I started the tractor instead of having the usual 40psi at idle that I had ,it was 28psi. Like I said I installed an additional adapter where the oil pressure gauge and oil canister line attach to the block.Do I need to tee in at the 1/4 line at the filter canister to possibly keep the pressure from dropping? thanks again .steve

 
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Bob
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:56 am    Post subject: Re: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

NO "tee" needed.

Simply re-route the line from the BOTTOM of the oil filter cannister to "dump" into the governor INSTEAD of into the block, as it does now, and plug the unused hole in the block.

DO NOT mess with the plumbing on the side of the filter that is in common with the oil pressure gauge.

(The oil flows FROM the fitting the filter and gauge share INTO the outer part of the filter cannister, inward through the filter, then into the "rod" in the center of the filter and OUT the fitting at the bottom of the filter to return to the crankcase (or the governor). I'm GUESSING you think the oil flow is the other way.)

The filter is a "by-pass filter", fed through a restrictor oriface, so only 10 to 20% of the system oil goes through the filter, then "wastes" back through the fitting in the side of the block and simply runs down into the crankcase, NOT into the engine bearings, as you may be suspecting.

It is NOT a "full flow" filter, where ALL the oil goes through the filter, and then on to the oil gallery, and ultimately on to the bearings, as in "modern" engines.

You are NOT "teeing" into anything, or changing anything that will reduce oil pressure. You are simply taking the flow of oil that now simply flows back into the oil pan, and re-routing it so it lubes the governor on it's way back to the oil pan.

I HOPE this explains it better????

 

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steve hubbard
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:16 am    Post subject: Re: 2N governor Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob,thanks for the info.I forgot to mention that the tractor is a 2n but the engine is an early 8n,and both the oil gauge and oil line from the canister tee together at the block as previously mentioned,so if I reroute the line to the goveror from the canister filter it would'nt have oil pressure showing on the gauge unless I connect it where it should be on canister correct. thanks steve

 
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