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Help - no spark


 
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russ veldman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:36 am    Post subject: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I parked my 8N last winter. Now, there is no spark. I have voltage to the resister, and a lesser amount of voltage (test light is dimmer) to the coil (front mounted distributor). I have installed a new distributor, new coil, and new plugs all to no avail! I still don't have any spark (testing with spark plugs - I am about ready to try licking my finger and putting it into the wire). When I place the test light on the coil wire, it dims when the points close, but never goes out.
PLEASE HELP!!! What am I missing???

 
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Dell (WA)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:23 am    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Russ........you write......."When I place the test light on the coil wire, it dims when the points close, but never goes out"........very good, that is EXACTLY what should happen in a squarecan frontmount ignition system with "infamous ballast resistor". Its the LAW!!! Kirchhoff's Law.

When the points are "open" you get full battery volts at the top terminal because you have an "incomplete circuit". When the points "close", your battery volts are "divided by both the "infamous ballast resistor" and the coil's INTERNAL resistance. Vola'.....dimmer lite and never goes out.

This is different from the traditional roundcan ignition coil with NO ballast resistor.
'nuttin' to divide the volts. Understand???

According to Hakeem's Razor, the first suspect in NO SPARKS from setting longtime is invisable corrosion between the points contacts.

POLISH the points by drawing a dollar-bill between the closed points ...or... iff'n yer really cheap, tear off'n a piece of brown paper bag and draw between closed points. FILE POINTS ONLY EMERGENCY 'cuz you'll burn the nekkidd points and need to replace'em. $10 (cheap)

2nd suspect is yer weaksister ignition switch with gunked-up internal contacts causing weak sparkies and DIMM testlite. $10 (cheap)

And FINALLY, replace yer FLOODED sparkies with new clean dry AutoLite AL-437's gapped at 0.025". Don't throw yer current flooded sparkies away, just clean'em one-atta-time, in HOT-RUNNING engine, and SAVE'em for the NEXT time you can't start. Simple, eh.......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

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Phil (NJ,AZ,Sask)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:56 am    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

[quote] I have installed a new distributor, new coil, and new plugs all to no avail![/quote]

Hmm New Distributor & Plugs! that sure covers a lot of things.

Ignition Switch or Ballast. You can Jumper those easy as they are on the same BLOCK. The Bottom Terminal is Battery & you would Jumper it to each side (in turn) of the Ballast upper terminals. The Jumper is only used to test(trouble shoot)the faulty part.

Battery Cables: The Ground Cable is the single most important connection. Remove the bolt holding the cable to the Frame, clean the Contact area on the frame to bare metal and reinstall. Remove both Battery post cable terminal's and clean, reinstall & tighten

The "Hot" Battery cable connects to the Starter Selenoid and "Shares" that bolt terminal with a Small Wire that goes to one side of the Ammeter. The other side of the Ammeter (LOAD) has a wire that goes to the Bottom terminal of the Block. "Check each of those connections".

Hope this Helps,

 

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soundguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:48 am    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'd jumper power directly to the coil and see what i got.

soundguy

 

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russ veldman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have used AL-437s, new plugs... it seems so simple, new coil, new distributor, correct dwell and correct point setting and gap, there is just no reason for no spark.... simple system, just no spark! damnnnnn...

 
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russ veldman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

i bypassed the resistor supplying 12 volts to the coil,,, a 12 v coil,,, still no spark???

 
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Dell (WA)
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Russ.....repeat after me, its yer weaksister ignition switch. NOW REPLACE ITT!!!.....Dell

 
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Wisconsin Bill
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sounds like power gets up to distributor. I have had numerous times it ends up to be those corroded points. You can clean away rust at times, but I have had bad luck trying to clean away oily residue-New points and away it goes. A cheap fix- just like Dad always said, fix the cheapest things first. Cheaper yet is cleaning all connection points-at wire ends-mostly. Especially grounds.

 
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S Russell
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Dell,
When you say "it's your weak ignition switch" are your referring to the keyed ignition switch? I am still new to this and perhaps I missed something. My 1952 8N starts well enough the first time each trip I use it, then the rest of the day or two, it is increasingly difficult to start, meaning I resort to starting fluid sparay.

 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:54 am    Post subject: Re: Help - no spark Reply to specific post Reply with quote

If you have power directly jumped fromt he battery to the coil top.. and aren't getting sprk then:

points are not opening or are not closing.

points are shorted.

points are coroded.

condensor is shorted.

Easy to check this stuff with a test lamp or ohm meter..

Or coil spring is not making good connection atop the distrib cap/distrib.

rotor is bad, or ( rarely, cap is bad.. )

Soundguy

 

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