Can't keep 9n ford running

[J B]

This summer I was using my 9N ford tractor and it was running fine.I was plowing a garden spot when it just quit running and I couldn't get it running again. I took it and had the engine rebuild but that didn't help either. After I got the engine home and put back into the tractor and it ran rough and wouldn't stay running it would pop and snap and back fire. I took it apart and noticed that some of valves were sticking and the compression was 105 psi 90 110 and 90. So I took it apart to look at it and the cylinder walls wasn't honed that well. I took the pistons out and rehoned the cylinders to a nice crosshatch pattern. I took the valves out and cleaned and lapped the valves and put some new seals in. Checked the timing between the crank and cam. Bought a new distributor , carburator and plugs and wires. The timing is right and it's firing good. It still won't run without holding the chock out and it still won't run right.The compression checks between 120 and 125 psi on all cylinders. I thought the timing might be 180 out. So i cranked the engine over 180 degrees. It seem to run better but it was still back firing through the carb. Still getting the popping sound and still can't get it run right. I figured with the compression great and firing great it would at lease run right. But it doesen't. I am at wits end and help or sugestions.
 

[Dollar Bill]

Back fire is generally due to either of these:

1. Crossfire in cap, or wrong firing order. This on a front mount is quite often due to moisture, or simply because its easy to get wires mixed up. Firing order is 1-2-4-3. Distributor rotates clockwise (sitting in seat)
2. Lean air fuel mixture. Could be running lean due to diminished fuel flow, vacuum leak, or dirty carb.
3. Improper point gap - Check .015 on all four lobes.
4. Improper valve timing. While not real common for one to jump a timing gear it can happen. Your last compression test rules this out.
 

[Dollar Bill]

Offset tang on distributor drive prevents installing out of time.
 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

First, just tossing new parts into the mix without performing a root cause problem solving method is wrong for any problem. Since you say it is a 9N we know then it has the front mount distributor. Did you rebuild the distributor correctly before installing? The offset tang mounts one way and that sets the timing once settings are right - point gap at .015". It is possible to turn unit 180? off but it will not bolt down flush and the moment you crank engine over it will bust the aluminum housing, no doubt about that. You can't change the timing like that, got it? Next, is it a 6-volt/positive ground original setup or do you have a 12-volt conversion? Electrical shorts can cause backfiring/popping sounds. The compression readings are good/adequate/sufficient -not the problem. Did you check for spark and fuel flow? Get a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips for N-Owners and follow the tests for those systems. I suspect you may have a bad wiring issue combines with a bad fuel issue...report back with results and stop adding new parts. Pull off distributor and recheck it all on the bench. A new carb, new distributor out of the box is no guarantee their settings are right. What's wrong with old carb and distributor? They are easily rebuildable. If you need help send me your carb and distributor and I can rebuild them. Otherwise set carb mix screws to suggested starting points and leave them alone. Battery must be good, though not the problem of backfiring.

Tim Daley(MI)
 

[Bruce (VA)]

" So i cranked the engine over 180 degrees. "

Please tell us exactly how you did that.
75 Tips

 

[W_B]

My old 9N had been sitting about 2 years in a shed and when I needed to get it going again of course it needed some attention. Basically I followed Bruce VA's tests to check out the distributor and coil with a meter. Determined the coil was going bad and the points has resistance when closed and cleaning them didn't help... so new coil, new condenser and new points. Cleaned the plugs and checked all the wires over (years back had converted it to copper core wires). It had battery voltage to the coil so all good there. The carb had been recently cleaned, I swapped the one that was on it with one on my 8N and cleaned the 8N one (that was on this 9N originally) and reinstalled it and confirmed clean screens and good fuel flow. When all assembled again it fired right up.

Don't understand the statement about it didn't run so you took it to be rebuilt (?) Your choice of course, and it sounds like you got took good if the valve were sticking and the cylinders weren't honed right. Again your issue.

But as a cautionary tale to others DON'T DO WHAT THIS GUY DID! As Tim said, determine the cause of the problem before throwing parts (and $$) at it. Might have been something very simple, now this guy will never know since he's changed out everything.
 

[J B]

[quote="CVPost-Bruce (VA)"](quoted from post at 14:10:35 12/04/17) " So i cranked the engine over 180 degrees. "

Please tell us exactly how you did that.

What i did was take the distributor out and crank the engine over to the same place it was but 1/2 turn. Then I put the distributor back in. If I am not mistaken it should be 180 out.
 

[Dollar Bill]

[Bruce (VA)]

Do the timing marks line up? Did you do a
compression check after you did that?
 

[J B]

[JMOR]

[quote="J B"](quoted from post at 14:20:41 12/05/17)

[Dollar Bill]

[J B]

[Dollar Bill]

[J B]

I have a question Bill.
I lapped the seats and reset the valves. I left the manifold off and carburetor and I checked the compression. The compression would only come up to about 60 psi. You could see exhaust air or smoke come from the exhaust ports. Do you need the manifold on to check the compression.