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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:08 am    Post subject: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I picked up an MT back in January. Ran great and previous owner said he just had head work done on it. Been using it lightly on weekends. The last two weekends I've started it I get white smoke for a minute or two then it clears up and runs great. I noticed it slightly wet around where the head meets the block in a spot or two. Thinking it's the head gasket.

I want to try to re-torque the bolts before going any further. What torque setting should I use and should I do it hot or cold? Also, does the pattern matter since there is only four bolts?

Thank you for your help.
 
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Roger in Iowa
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Location: Ottumwa, Iowa

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:57 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

There are more bolts under the valve cover that would require tightening too!
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:26 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Here's the page from the service manual. If doing it hot use the highest number and if cold I would add 5 to the highest number. JMO

BTW - Drain the antifreeze into a bucket and shake it up and pour it back in. Sounds like the po may not have premixed it and that causes hot spots.

 
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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:04 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks M-Man! That is perfect.

Is it better to retorque hot or cold?
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:47 pm    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It's about as far as it is wide. Technically it's supposed to be hot but I rarely do. I normally just add 5 and call it good. Just loosen one at a time and retorque in
the proper sequence.
 
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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:07 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks M-Man.

I had to take the water jacket and valve train off to torque them last night. My guess is I need to set the valves now. Any chance you could describe the best way to do so?

The oil is fairly milky looking. I am going to change it too. Should I wash out the inside with something before adding new or just change it again after a couple of hours of run time?
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 7:29 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would just change the oil and keep a check on it. You may end up pulling the head if the re torqing doesn't work. A hair loose is better than a hair tight.

 
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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks M-Man. If I end up pulling the head and get a new gasket, do you recommend putting anything on the gasket to prevent this from happening again?
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 10:03 pm    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

My way is old and outdated just like me but I'll share it anyway. If the head and block is perfect I just smear a thin coat of bearing grease on the block and head wiping
all that I can off with my fingers as I go. I want the coat of grease as thin as possible. In my mind this eliminates potential rust and allows the gasket to expand and
deform when torquing so I get a good seal.

If there are minor surface imperfections I like to use copper coat on both sides. Accomplishes the same thing plus seals those imperfections.

I'm sure there are more modern and mabie better way's but I've been doing it this way for over 50 years and haven't had one fail me yet so if it ain't broke I ain't
fixing it.

If you do have to pull the head you need to have a machine shop check it.
 
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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks again M-Man.

I have a question about the last page you posted. On the top figure it shows both a D/C mark and a SPARK mark but the page only talks about the D/C mark for TDC on cylinder 1. What is the SPARK mark for?

I don't have a MT crank. I was hoping that taking the plugs out I could roll the engine with the fan belt. No luck. I talked to a neighbor and he had a Farmall A crank. It fits good enough to move the engine. I spent a half hour trying to find the D/C mark with no luck. I would move it a little then check the peep hole, repeat. I finally found the SPARK mark. I guess I will need to get my neighbor over to help.

I take it there is no mark for TDC on #2, correct? What's the best way to make sure I am there?

Thanks for helping a newbie out.
 
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JDMTIL
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:34 pm    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I went back out and found the D/C mark. It was right after spark which makes sense. No problem there.

The question I have is it says to rotate the engine 1/2 revolution of the crankshaft to adjust the second set of valves. So, would I turn my crank exactly a half turn? I wish they had it marked on the flywheel also.

Thanks again.
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:17 pm    Post subject: Re: MT Question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The DC mark has to be on the #1 compression stroke so put your finger over the spark plug hole as you turn the engine. You'll feel the air pushing against your finger
when it's on the compression stroke. When it gets to DC stop and set those two valves as both are completely closed. You could put a mark on the front pulley at 9 oclock
looking from the front and stop when it gets to 3 oclock. That would be half a round. Or you could use a straw in the plug hole as the #2 piston comes up on compression
to find the top. You're looking for the point when both valves are completely closed so watch the rockers as well.
 
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