Yesterday's Tractor Co.
Shop Now View Cart
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 9N,2N,8N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   Traditional YT Forum ViewClassic View   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile    Log inLog in 

Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085

Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next

 
Post new topic    
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:54 pm    Post subject: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hi guys, I have a 1952 TEA 2085. I have split the tractor and am looking to replace the rear crankshaft seal. Does anyone have a step by step procedure for completing this job. I have some instruction that didn"t instruct me to remove the oil & oil pan. So I haven"t drained the oil from the engine and have that part of the tractor resting on the oil pan supported on wood & blocks pan to hold it up when I split it. I think that this was a mistake. I can"t see how to remove the sealing block that holds the seal in from the bottom without removing the oil pan. Is this correct? My instructions say to loosen the rear main bearing housing to replace the seal from below the tractor . Since I am a newby to this, I don"t full understand what this means so am in a bit of a dilemma. Can someone help me correct any mistake that I made as well as give me a procedure on how to replace this seal with pictures if possible? If the procedure is too long, could you email it to me? I also have a new clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing & transmission input seal to replace while I have the tractor split. Any help in completing these jobs as well would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
scott mcintosh
Long Time User


Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 989


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Split tractor remove clutch and flywheel rear main is right there.I see no need to remove oil pan as they are a 2 piece seal replaced from back of engine that is the way other Fergusons are.Ask for John Deere D I bet he has pics.Scott
 
Back to top
View user's profile
John Deere D
Tractor Expert


Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 2858


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Pics that may assist you......

Bob...











 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 2:42 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks for the pics John Deere D but I do not have the engine out completely as your pics show but rather have the tractor split. The tractor still has oil in the engine sump. Do I need to drain the oil before going any further? If I take the 2 center bolts out in the picture that I have attached, can I then lower the crank seal block and then remove & replace the seal. If I do this will oil come out of the sump? Is the oil pan in the way to do this and therefore needs to be removed? I see that you use a sealant to seal the seal to the block. Is this possible if I do not remove everything as you have and do it the wy that I am describing? Thanks Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 2:45 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Forgot to add the picture. Here it is.
 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 2:47 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

For some reason the picture won't upload. I'll try again


 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:20 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Scott, The seal is a one piece split seal so has to be put in as a single piece. I have done what you have suggested but there is no way to remove the old seal and install the new seal as it sits. My instuctions say to remove "cheese head" security screws that holds the sealing block into position (I can't see cheese head security screws, I don't even know what cheese head security screws are or where they are so I am already lost) and then unscrew the 2 bolts holding the rear main bearing housing in position and prise it loose. I am assuming that the bolts holding the rear bearing housing are the inner 2 long bolts holding the bearing block in position in the pics that I posted in response to John Deere D. My problem is that it appears that the bearing housing is up against the upper lip of the oil pan and cannot be prised loose without removing the oil pan. I am not sure about this but that is what it appears like to me so I am unsure about how to proceed. My instructions then say to loosen the bearing housing enough to removethe oldseal and thread the new seal around the rear bearing on the crank making sure that the oil seal is flush with the rear of the cylinder block. Then put the bearing housing in position with the bolts ready to tighten ensuring that the felt seals in the side grooves are still seated properly. So my problem(s) are i) I am not sure what the sealing block is ii) what the rear main bearing housing is and iii) how to get them out so I can replace the seal. Since I don't have the engine dismantled as John Deere D shows in his response, I am unsure on how to move forward in replacing this seal. Any other ideas? Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
John Deere D
Tractor Expert


Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 2858


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:35 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Good morning RONon

I have never,and shall never replace a REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL on a TEA-20 with the Standard English Engine unless the Engine is in the inverted position disconnected from the tractor:

With all due respect, the REAR OIL SEAL is the worst Challenge you could have ever set out to do, let alone with the engine still attached to the forward components of Tractor.

The Engine OIL should be drained, Oil Pan / Sump removed. Then at that time, the REAR BEARING BLOCK pulled away from the Engine block.

Working upside down trying to replace the rear Crank oil seal, I give you less that a 40% chance of a successful seal change out:

I shall be watching to see the comments from others who have successfully changed the rear Oil seal in the manner that you are striving to do:

All the best:

Bob.. Owner Operator TEA-20 and Several TEA-20 parts Tractors.



 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 1:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks Bob. I am hoping to complete this with a greater than 40% success rate. Your suggestion is exactly as I thought, drain oil, remove pan and lower the block to gain access to the seal. I will try and if it works great, if not I will have to do what you suggest. What type of sealant did you use for the seal? Thanks again, Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

So I have decided, based on Bob's pics etc. that I have to remove the oil pan. So, since the engine is currently resting on the oil pan, I have to lift the engine, drain the oil & remove the oil pan to get at the seal etc. Will the radius arms hold up the wait of the engine while I remove the oil pan? If not, I thionk that I can hoist it up with my engine hoist attached to bolts that go through the holes that would join the two parts of the tractor. It would be much easier to lift the engine and rest the radius arms on jack stands while I remove the oil pan. do yo think that this will work? If this will not work, will grade 5 bolts hold up the weight or do I need to go to grade 8? Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
pomester
Regular


Joined: 04 Mar 2016
Posts: 403


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Ron, I'll preface this by saying I don't have direct experience with the model of tractor you are working on, but I have worked on several Fergusons/Fords of a similar configuration -

I would not trust the radius arms to hold the engine in position - too many points where things might shift - take a piece of chain and your engine hoist and two bolts thru the engine to transmission bolt holes and relieve the weight from the oil pan - however you do it, work safely - I try to always have a second support in place, particularly if I am working underneath an assembly -

I've looked over the pictures and it's unclear to me how the one piece seal is placed in position - I've done two piece seals in that location (other engine models) and those were difficult to place satisfactorily -

be very careful, don't get frustrated, work thru each step methodically -

best of luck to you
David
 
Back to top
View user's profile
scott mcintosh
Long Time User


Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 989


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

By look of John Deere D's pics you will have invert engine and remove all main caps and lift crank a tad so you have room to work.I don't know if there is enough room without removing timing cover.Follow his pics and it should go.I have worked with two piece felt seals.All one piece seals on motors I have worked with seal area is same size as where flywheel bolts to crank.Take it slow and you will figure it out.Scott
 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 5:04 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

OK so I am going to lift the engine with my engine hoist and drain the oil and remove the oil pan. Is there anything that I should know before doing this to avoid another mistake? Is it straight forward, remove the bolts holding the oil pan onto the bottom of the block and just removing the oil pan? What about the oil pump? Is there anything that I should watch to avoid damage to it when removing the pan? Will it be possible to put a jack under the block with a piece of wood under the block to allow me to hold up the engine rather thn have the engine hoist there in the way? Is it better to leave the engine hoist there since I will need it to replace the oil pan after I get the oil seal in? Just bouncing my thoughts off of you guys to get some knowledgable feedback. Thanks for any advice! Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
John Deere D
Tractor Expert


Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 2858


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 7:41 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Remove OIL STRAINER as per pictures BEFORE you drop he OIL PAN.........

Bob....




 
Back to top
View user's profile
RonON
Regular


Joined: 11 Sep 2018
Posts: 41


Report to Moderator

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks Bob! The pics that you provided help a geat deal. I'll let you know how it goes as I progress and of course ask more questions as I need to, so please keep paying attention to my posts. Ron
 
Back to top
View user's profile
:   
Post new topic    Yesterday's Tractors Forum Index -> Harry Ferguson All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
Fast Shipping!  Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). Expedited shipping available, just call! Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors. Compare our super low shipping rates! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. We are a company you can trust and have generous return policies. Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ About Us ]

YT Home  |  Forums

Modern View Forum powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters