John Deere 3010 Steering Timing

[jiceberg]

I recently replaced the o-rings on the pistons and the seal on a leaking spindle. The service manual only goes so far in the timing aspect. I guessed what might be correct and was wrong. I pushed one piston against the plug that wasn't removed and placed the other piston against the opposite plug. I lined up the V on the spindle to one of the timing marks on the retainer. Upon reassembly I noticed the steering arm (wide-front) only bolts one way (the bolt pattern is slightly off, at a glance they "look" symmetrical). I removed the front wheels again. Placed the "V" on the spindle to the other mark. This time I was going to check it before connecting the wheels again. My steering wheel was hard turned to one side - which in my logic was correct since I aligned the "V" to one of the retaining timing marks. I started the tractor and looked at the spindle - it moved almost 120 degrees without touching the steering wheel and thus threw it all out of wack. I can only assume due to air. Would weight of the wheels had stopped it from turning? Can someone hold it to keep it from turning when you first start it? I HATE to put the wheels back on only to take them off again. Is something else a muck causing this? Having said this, had it not moved, I believe I had it correct this time where the V would have been at the rear with wheels straight and the steering would have moved the 120 degree between the timing marks.
 

[SVcummins]

I don?t know but I?d think one of the fine fellows on
this board should have an idea
 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to YT
Are you utilizing a JD tech manual or I&T tech manual? It's been too many yrs since I was a dealer service manager for me to remember the correct PS timing procedure. One of the tech's should answer your question shortly. I sure thought one put 1 piston all the way to 1 side & other piston to extreme other side then install spindle with marks aligned.
 

[jiceberg]

Thanks guys I finally got it done. I am using the I&T manual. It refers to timing to "appropriate" timing mark, but doesn't provide any guidance to what "appropriate" is. The extra movement when I started tractor kept throwing me off. The only logic was the pistons were not completely to each side (a little play) before hitting plug. If it helps anyone down the road, this is what worked for me... Piston toward front of tractor all the way to right, piston toward rear all the way to the left. Make sure retaining cap is installed with timing marks toward rear of tractor. Steering wheel set at hard right turn. Aligned the V on spindle to the timing mark on the drivers (left) side.
 

[jiceberg]

I thought I would post some pictures to help anyone else tackling this. Note - This was the first time I ever did something like this (my other tractor is a 1958 Oliver with no power steering). With the I&T manual and help from you guys online I was able to muddle through it. There aren't a lot of pictures online and as they say, they speak a thousand words. Going into it, I didn't realize the size of everything and always second guessing before getting aggressive (is something else holding this or is it just stuck and need force). Hope these help. From the "make-shift" tool I used to pull the plugs, to what the actual parts look like. And the picture showing why it leaked (previous owner put too long of a bolt in steering arm which rubbed against seal).
 

[tim s]

When you time the pinion you need to cycle it from left to right and see if the timing marks line up with each cycle, if they "Don't" re- time it till it will line up both ways, you will need to have the lines disconnected where they join on the right side in front of the radiator,,when this is correct then re-attach the lines. once you are back together when you start the tractor the voids in the steer motor will start to fill, some times with out moving the steer wheel..this is normal,,once you cycle the steer wheel both ways it should be back to normal,, the books will tell you to loosen the bleed screw on the steering valve, but don't,,it will just add to the mess with oil going every where,, the system will bled it's self... If your steering needs to correct it's self after some use it will mean that the steering valve will need re-sealed and re-calibrated.


 

[jiceberg]

Thanks! That makes sense and would have helped me.
 

[jiceberg]

The steering valve part is the ugly job behind the steering wheel correct?
 

[Glen D Anderson]

To add to Tim's explanation, marking the orientation of the seal plate prior to disassembly would've helped reduce confusion.

This is applicable to anything that has a symmetrical bolt pattern that can be bolted together in more than 1 position.

Just need a center punch, chisel, letter/number stamps, etc......

[jiceberg]

Guess I am not smart enough to add my photo's??
 

[tim s]

Yes that is where the steer valve is,,it is ornery to get in/out..when or if you need to deal with that I can help you with it here and bench test it here,,I'm doing one right now,, and a paint stick is good for keeping things going right..


 

[tim s]

Your Smart enough,,you just need to figure it out...you need to store the picture into a file and then when you hit your browse bar go to that file picture,,just like the steer motor..it takes a bit to get it sorted out...the more we do the more we learn....and the more we discuss it on here the easier it is to learn...
 

[jiceberg]

[jiceberg]

 

[jiceberg]