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Correct way to adjust top link?

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Bill Crowell
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:47 am    Post subject: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I couldn't find anything about the top link in the 8N operator's manual.

If your 8N is having a hard time lifting a heavy implement, does it make any difference how the top link is adjusted, or should I look elsewhere for the problem?

Thanks a lot, everyone.
 
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R Geiger
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Look elsewhere. How much does the implement weigh?
 
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Tall T
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

CVPost-Bill Crowell wrote:
(quoted from post at 11:47:40 01/11/19) I couldn't find anything about the top link in the 8N operator's manual.

If your 8N is having a hard time lifting a heavy implement, does it make any difference how the top link is adjusted, or should I look elsewhere for the problem?

Thanks a lot, everyone.


Bill,

I worried for a sec about my Jobe's lifting power with a load of heavy wood rounds in the carryall . . . until I increased the engine RPM. Smile

T
 
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Bill Crowell
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:04 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Well, I do have some more questions.

It's a 6' wide Howse medium-duty tandem disc harrow that has 20 18" blades and weighs 705 lbs., which I think is about the heaviest implement my 8N can lift because when it does lift the disc into the transport position it lightens up the front end of the tractor so much that the steering becomes scary light. I would like to add weight to the front end, and would appreciate suggestions about how to do so.

I belatedly checked the Howse user manual, and it says you are supposed to adjust the disc's frame angle by lowering it to the ground and adjusting the top link's turnbuckle so the frame of the disc is parallel to the ground. I haven't tried that yet. I might have the top link way too tight or way too short; can't hurt to check it. Nor have I checked the hydraulic fluid level for awhile. It's probably something simple because I think the hydraulics on my tractor are in good shape.

The Howse manual says to operate the 3-point hitch in its "float" mode, which in 8N lingo means "constant draft", right?
 
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Dean
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

A 6' rotary cutter is too wide and too heavy for an 8N.

Adjusting the top link will not help.

Dean
 
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Bill Crowell
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Dean wrote: "A 6' rotary cutter is too wide and too heavy for an 8N."

Thanks for telling me, Dean. I didn't know that.
 
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R Geiger
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I see a different weight.http://www.howseimplement.com/product-lines/tillage/disc-harrows/6-medium-heavy-duty-disc-harrow.html

you might want to put a pressure gauge on your machine and see how much pressure the pump is putting out.

How does your tractor pull it when in use?
 
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Bruce (VA)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:32 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

See tip # 44.

You've got more implement than you do tractor.

Adjusting the top link changes the "angle of attack" on the ground-engaging implement. It does not allow you to lift more than the hydraulics can handle.
75 Tips

 
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Tim PloughNman Daley
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Look Elsewhere. What is the weight of the disc harrow? The top link isn't your failure to lift issue. Set the top link to about 25" center to center to start with. N's have a limited lifting capacity for payload; 600-800 lbs max and that's pushing it. Anything over 450 lbs is going to be tough. Attach the disc harrow and leave in POSITION CONTROL MODE. Once you're in the field you can use Draft Control mode. With the tractor stationary, lift the implement. Do the hydraulics struggle? Will it lift all the way up? Using a disc harrow will require that the top link be adjusted as needed, either shorter or longer depending on how it performs. If ridging or furrowing is occurring, you will need to adjust the gangs to eliminate the problem and you do that by shortening or lengthening the top link. It also isn't the size so much. An N will pull a 6' disc no problem. They made them in 5,6, and 7 foot sizes. It's the weight that matters. Don't try adding extra ballast with cinder blocks or heavy weights -you will only damage the bearings.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
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doublebass73
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'm running an MK Martin pull type snowblower on my 9N, it weighs 671 lbs or more when snow builds up on it. For ballast I have the front tires filled with RV Antifreeze which is about 50 lbs. plus I have one 42 lb.. suitcase weight hanging from the aftermarket 8N bumper I have on the front. This keeps the front end down enough to drive up my hilly driveway with the implement all the way up (9N so no position control) but I wouldn't mind adding another suitcase weight or two because if there's heavy snow built up on the snowblower and I don't notice it will want to wheelie with the implement up going up the hill. The front bumper will hold a few suitcase weights but I wouldn't put too many on.
 
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doublebass73
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Here's a picture of the weight on the front bumper.


 
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Royse
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

What do you mean by having a hard time lifting it Bill?
Is your hydraulic pump thump-thump-thumping when trying
or does it just not lift as high as you think it should or ??
Position vs draft mode could make a difference on a heavy implement.

In my experience, the N's will lift enough on the 3 pt that the front
end will lift when trying to drive forward, if not while setting still.
One nice way to add weight is a set of the front wheel weights.
They bolt inside the front rims and add about 90lbs per wheel.
These are for 16 inch rims. They're usually pretty pricey though.


 
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Tim PloughNman Daley
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:54 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bassman-
How does the snowblower work? PTO driven I'm guessing. Interesting. I'd caution against too many suitcase weights on the bumper -it's only secured by two bolts. Have you thought about 16" fronts? 9N/2N 16" front wheels are hard to find but you can switch out the spindles with the 8N type then install 6.5-16 wheels, tires, and the 2-piece wheel weights Royse showed.

TPD
 
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doublebass73
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:56 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

CVPost-Tim PloughNman Dal wrote:
(quoted from post at 06:54:49 01/13/19) Bassman-
How does the snowblower work? PTO driven I'm guessing. Interesting. I'd caution against too many suitcase weights on the bumper -it's only secured by two bolts. Have you thought about 16" fronts? 9N/2N 16" front wheels are hard to find but you can switch out the spindles with the 8N type then install 6.5-16 wheels, tires, and the 2-piece wheel weights Royse showed.

TPD


Yes, it's a 68" PTO driven snowblower. It's a pull type so I drive forward to blow the snow rather than the typical 3 point snowblower which operates in reverse. After owning a pull type I would never even think of buying the other type, it's so much easier to drive forward than operate in reverse the whole time.

I'm with you on putting too many suitcase weights on the front bumper, it's why I only have one right now even though I'd like more. I think I could safely get away with one more on there or possibly 2 more but that might be pushing it. I hadn't thought about 16" fronts but I like the sound of that option better. I'll have to keep an eye out for those front wheel weights. The other night I had to jack up the front to check the left side wheel bearing which was sloppy. Luckily it was just a loose castle nut but while I had it up I checked the spindles and they were a little bit sloppy so I see a spindle/bushing job in my future. That would be the time to change over to 8N spindles and 16's.
 
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Ultradog MN
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: Correct way to adjust top link? Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I posted this recently but I know not
everyone sees every post.
This is a later style front bumper - was
"correct" for the Hundred Series tractors.
You could add up to four 80 lb bumper
weights to go on them but this setup is
much harder to find than front wheel
weights.
Notice the gussets or brackets that angle
back from the top - part #6.
They go to the back side of your axle and
bolt on with the same bolt that attaches
the bumper to the axle.
Those little gussets really stiffen the
bumper and make it capable of carrying a
lot more weight.
A guy could fab up a pair of these quite
easily and add them to your N style
bumper. Then you could add a one or even
two more suitcase weights if you
wanted/needed to.
Some may think it would add too much
weight to your front end but it would
still be far less weight than a loader
would add.
Suitcase weights are relatively easy to
find too.
Have fun moving snow. I don't mind that,
in fact I enjoy it.
We are way down on snowfall here this
year. Only had to plow one time.


 
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