Painting a Farmall B

[Olyj1947]

We have a Farmall B in the shop for much needed maintenance- axle seals, pto, steering, engine and the list goes on. Owner
came in, saw how disassembled it was getting to be and wants it painted. Okay, we'll do it but haven't told him we don't
usually paint tractors. I'll get the paint at C-IH dealer . How do you mix it with thinner and hardener? What about
primer?
On my gas engines, I prime with Rustoleum Rusty Iron primer, buff it and 2 coats of Plasti Coat primer. Will that idea work
with the IH red paint? How many coats of top coat to finish off? I figure 4 or 5. This tractor is pretty well torn down and
we plan on painting many, many parts before assembly. I am willing to heed all suggestions and ideas! Thank you in
advance!
 

[Olyj1947]

I don't know how that happened!
 

[showcrop]

probably the biggest thing about painting a Farmall is to remember that RED FADES. Second is that tractor manufactures don't make paint, they buy it from a paint manufacturer. You should be more concerned with what rather than where you buy it. Talk to the owner about his expectation of how long he wants it to look good.
 

[Stephen Newell]

It would have been a lot better to had planned on painting it before you tore it down. Everything needs to be de-greased very good before priming and that would have been better with oven cleaner and a power washer. At this point just scrub it down well with a stiff brush and some naphtha. On sheetmetal use rags frequently changing them. The areas with the old paint you just need to sand it with 220 grit paper before painting. Primer is only needed where bare metal is showing.

The paint you plan on is a modified alkyd enamel which means it's only slightly better than enamel house paint. Assuming you are going to spray the paint, thin it with naphtha as little as possible to where it will spray through your gun. Don't thin it to work like rattle can paint it should be thick enough it splatters a little when you apply it. Over thinning it will make it dry slower and be more likely to run and it really screws up the sheen. Spraying it thicker the finish is slow drying enough it will flow together eliminating the orange peal. The hardener, just go by the directions on the product. The ratio isn't that critical, I usually don't even measure it. It's not like the hardener on urethane paints the hardener for enamels just helps the hardness and sheen a little. You can use most any kind of primer except for lacquer. An epoxy primer would be the best but it's more expensive and has a recoat window to contend with. Usually you have around 8 hours to topcoat the primer after applying it or you have to prime it again. The gas they make today is really harsh on the paint. Spills can get under the paint and lift it like paint stripper. It would be better to use a urethane paint on the gas tank. At least put a urethane clear coat over the enamel.
 

[showcrop]

I agree with Stephen except on the priming. Unless you can positively ID what is on it now and verify that what you are going to use will not attack and soften it, I would prime all of it to keep edges of the old paint from lifting.
 

[mcrow4117]

I have repainted multiple tractors for myself and other people always used a good quality acrylic enamel automotive paint. I am doing a B farmall now for someone that supplied the paint CIH paint that your talking about. Never again will I use it. Its terrible doesnt flow like its supposed to and bottom line its just cheap no better than rattle can paint in my opinion. As far as primer I like epoxy primer can be applied to bare metal or over painted surfaces when scuffed. It can be topcoated in as little as 45 min to 72 hrs. If topcoated after 72 hrs it will need to be scuffed as well.
 

[David G]

I would NEVER learn to paint on someone else's equipment.
 

[gable]

[showcrop]