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Ford 960 clutch


 
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grandpa Love
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 6:37 am    Post subject: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Couple days of rain coming to central Alabama. 960 is in the barn. Clutch kit is here from All State Ag. Hope it's a bolt and go. Done a couple clutch jobs on Farmall cubs. And a F-250........ Hydraulic pump line just unbolt? Steering column unbolt and slide forward with front end? Got a ton of cribbing. And will strap front to barn rafters on each side. Any tips? Thanks





Clutches, pressure plate,throw out bearing and pilot bearing.... Hay season coming quick
 
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michford
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 6:56 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sounds like you have it under control with cribbing for the front end. Drain hydraulics and remove hydraulic manifold from pump to trans. Unbolt and raise steering box, maybe hang it from your rafters. Unbolt and roll rear away and leave engine half stationary. No clutch alignment tool needed for the double clutch, but check your new clutch and make sure all the fingers are at the same height before installation.
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote



Don't you even think about sliding the front ahead!!! block it up and do not disturb the blocks. Get a trailer jack with the wheel and bolt it to the side of the rear housing where the round plate bolts on and then just roll it back with that third wheel rigidly attached you needn't worry about any upset.
 
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pomester
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would replace the transmission and PTO input shaft seals if I had the tractor split and didn't know if/when it had ever been done. Carefully check the condition of the input shaft needle bearing and replace if needed. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1473431





As mentioned, don't move the engine, roll the transmission/rear end back. I have made a fixture to keep the engine upright, be very careful, it would not take much to have the engine flop.






Obviously my preference is to loosen the steering drag link and leave the steering box attached (since this picture was taken I've found it better to loosen the drag link at the front and rotate it to rest on the rear trumpet, that keeps in out of the way better), but loosening the steering box and raising it out of the way works as well.

Check the ring gear carefully for wear. Often times there is an arc where the teeth are worn. It will never be easier to service than when you otherwise have the tractor split.
 
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grandpa Love
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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2021 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Show crop.... Poor wording on my part. I
meant that the steering column would
stay with front while back rolled away.
I meant it one way, but said it wrong!
 
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MarkB_MI
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 4:19 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

You'll need to slightly raise the steering gearbox, that can be done with a come-along attached to the rafters.

You need to support both the rear of the engine and the frame rails. The bolts that attach the transmission to the frame are threaded into the motor; once you remove them there's nothing to support the motor.

I would replace the starter ring gear unless it appears to be brand new. Cheap insurance against a second tractor split.

Yes, the hydraulic manifold just unbolts. Drain the fluid out of all three reservoirs (transmission, hydraulics and differential) first.
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 7:07 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote



About the hydraulic manifold: it has come up here a few times that the O-rings can be hard to get to seat again or to get a seal with anything other than CNH so it is a good idea to get those from CNH.
 
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grandpa Love
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hydraulic manifold o-ring size? Nearest
dealer is 60 miles away. Part number?
Thanks
 
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Sean in PA
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

CVPost-grandpa Love wrote:
(quoted from post at 17:14:13 05/03/21) Hydraulic manifold o-ring size? Nearest
dealer is 60 miles away. Part number?
Thanks


Parts site shows 4 separate o-rings, two at each end of the manifold, each with a different part number:

Pump end of manifold:
Large o-ring for suction tube -C0NNB998A
small o-ring for pressure tube - C0NNB997A

Transmission end of manifold:
Large o-ring for suction tube -134372
small o-ring for pressure tube - 86629540

You should be able to find them on-line.
 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 4:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote


There is nittin special about CNH o-rings!!! They are common off the self o-rings.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1196253&highlight=orings
 
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M-MAN
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PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2021 5:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Two are quad rings. Are you using o
rings in their place?
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 2:36 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

CVPost-M-MAN wrote:
(quoted from post at 18:18:22 05/03/21) Two are quad rings. Are you using o
rings in their place?



Yes, What M-MAN said. Quad rings, that is what I was thinking of.
 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 3:59 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Yes I have with no problem... I have ordered Quads for the application from https://www.mcmaster.com/ in bags of 50/100 for $10 are so : )

Ouads supposing seal better. I have never had a problem substituting.
 
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Greg NE
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2021 6:58 am    Post subject: Re: Ford 960 clutch Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The only thing I would add is whenever I split one of these tractors I also replace the lower welch plug in the block. I'd hate to resplit a tractor just for one plug and you can't get to it when it's all bolted together. I have seen them rust through from the outside since they sit partially behind the bellhousing of the transmission and collect dirt. I also splurge a little extra and get the brass ones, never have to worry about it rusting then!
 
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