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Pigeon Toed


 
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Dale in Nw wa
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Joined: 24 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:33 pm    Post subject: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

HELP I was out cutting hay with the DC4 tonight, She got a very bad case (lol) of pigeon toes. The arm that bolts through the upper left Hub and the drag ling from steering box hooks to it, Also the tie rod is hooked to this. To make a long story short mine broke off at the hub This looks like steel so I might try welding it. OR DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE FOR SALE. I need this going as it is the only tractor and have hay ready to bale and more to cut Thanks Dale Hubbard
 
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jon f mn
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 3:41 am    Post subject: Re: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It's most likely cast steel so use 7018 rod. V it and weld it one weld per side til it's done and you should be good.
 
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Dale in Nw wa
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 6:43 am    Post subject: Re: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks will try it Dale
 
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jon f mn
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:36 am    Post subject: Re: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Do you have a dc welder? if not make sure you buy 7018ac rod.
 
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Dale in Nw wa
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I am going to rent a lincon 225 portable. I went down to tractor it is 5mile from home went there with intentions of undowing nut and driving out piece will not move so next thing is to weld part directley to top of king pin hub I know not a good idea but cant move tractor any ideas Thanks Dale Might take heat tourch down and try heating and see if it will come out that way again thanks dale if you want to call 509 684 6861
 
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Christopher Mikesell
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Pigeon Toed Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Do a spark test before you weld. To do this, just find a piece of mild steel scrap and a piece of cast iron scrap and grind the arm on the edge of the break. Then grind your two scraps and compare the sparks. Steel looks bright and yellow/straw colored with long sparks, while Cast iron looks more reddish and the sparks are shorter. If it is cast steel (most probably), then jon f mn is exactly right, a DC welder with 7018 will give you about the best repair possible. Just Vee-out the crack to get full penetration, weld one side, back grind, and weld the other side. The only aspect of this repair that will make it inferior to the original (as long as you follow standard procedure and do a good job) is the HAZ.
 
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