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Track pin and bushings

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Sberry
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Location: Brethren, Michigan

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I am going to look at the book, I had wondered where "worn" was.


 
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Jim.ME
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Your machine looks good. My thoughts on your tracks: Looking at your photos I see how close the idler bracket slide is to the front of the track frame and the large amount of sag you have in your tracks (more than it should have), I would say they are beyond what is considered 100% worn. It is hard to see the sprocket well, but it appears worn considerably.

Not recommending eBay but for an idea there is a listing on eBay for a pair of aftermarket 350 track chains for $1591.00 plus shipping. Then you have to buy new track bolts to swap your pads over to the new chains. Aftermarket sprockets on eBay are about $202.00 each. If you measure up the rest of the undercarriage you will likely find it is beyond the 100%worn.

This is where you have to decide how much you use it, and how much you want to spend. Even if you decide the idlers and rollers look good to you; I would recommend new sprockets with the chains so they fit the chain pitch right and don't accelerate the wear on new parts.

These crawlers did not have screw adjusters, so you would be doing a design build project. Repair your hydraulic (grease) adjusters, they are much better than the screw adjusters, in my opinion having dealt with both. If you don't have a parts catalog (PC 1169 for the 350B crawler, your blade parts catalog should be PC 916) use the free on line catalogs at HTTPS://JDPARTS.DEERE.COM/SERVLET/COM . You can find the John Deere part numbers for the parts you want and do on line searches to get an idea of prices. Hope this helps.
 
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Dennis K (WA)
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Location: Ridgefield, Wa.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 5:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Nice looking dozer you have.
Jim.ME is on it. Sprockets and chains (rails) should be changed together if you can find them. Take your adjusters apart and see what you need. They should be repairable.
Dennis
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 6:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The chain cost isn't bad. I saw some sprockets in that
price range which is pretty good. Since its worn
already alost could take a link out to get it to adjust
and wear it out some more.
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 7:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

CVPost-Sberry wrote:
(quoted from post at 19:44:24 09/26/1Cool The chain cost isn't bad. I saw some sprockets in that
price range which is pretty good. Since its worn
already alost could take a link out to get it to adjust
and wear it out some more.
The front wheel looks great, the hubs on the rollers are all square. Repaired adjusters and removing a link would likely run long time for me. I really dont run it much but it's scrap as it is.
 
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Jim.ME
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 3:09 am    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Now you are at where most non-commercial users end up. The amount of use of the crawler doesn't justify the cost of an undercarriage rebuild. Others have removed a link and gone for years. I have heard of people making bolt-in spacer blocks to go between the head of the adjuster cylinder and the brackets that hold the idler shaft, to have more track adjustment, rather than removing a link. When the tracks just plain won't stay on, then they do something.

As far as the idler and rollers looking good, that is fine and they will likely run for years for you if you proceed as you posted. Check them for play and leaking seals, repair as needed and they will run a long time. If you were to measure them by the manual I'd be surprised if they are not past the 100% worn point. Loss of diameter on the idler, sprocket, and rolls increases travel needed by the adjuster, just like changing to a smaller pulley diameter on a belt drive. Looks and measurements don't always agree on the technical side.

If you haven't been watching for loose mounting bolts around the engine, bell housing, and power train to frame mounting bolts; add that to your normal maintenance checks. Many have had them loosen up and cause driveline issues. Good luck and have fun. Jim
 
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Keith True
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I don't know if it's me,or just the picture,but I'm seeing a gap between the parts of the front idler yoke.There should be two bolts on each side,with maybe some shims to adjust the tracking of the front idler.From what little I can see of them the sprockets don't look like much.The important things on that machine to look at are,the front beam,right under the top rollers.Make sure the rivets are tight where it mounts to the frame,and the bolts are good where they go into the track frame.I don't believe that machine has rubber in the clamps,I believe just the first year did.(1965)Make sure the rear beam,(round one)is clamped tightly to the tractor.They DO loosen up,a lot.Make sure the side frame rails are tight against the trans housing at the rear.If run loose they will crack the castings they are bolted to.Tracks are like tires,wear them out and replace them.If the machine is tight it is worth fixing,if it is not,it is like putting perfume on a pig,or chrome on a Mack.A waste of money.
 
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dpendzic
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Location: long island NY and Hancock Ma

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

those front wheels are called idlers
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I am a career mechanic and fabricator and ben in everything on this machine. We had some work done on it when I was busy and they let kids do the install, wrong dirty loose bolts in it everwhere. Broke a bunch of stuff. The problem I go long time in between repairs and not an expert in all phases and I like hearing about the cost'reman etc.
I agree that would make it simple vs pressing it all especially since I have a one unit job. I got enough rig ups I wont ever use now.
I also added spacers on one side. This is super good too know.
My sprockets are really good and fit this chain. All this is running square, it doesn't come off if it can be adjusted and,,,,,, since the chain is junk or can be replaced easier than press out there is absolutely no downside to running it by getting adjusters in it.
It would take some brackets but was thinking a guy might add some bracket/mod and put a 20T bottle jack in it?
I drive a dozer like a maniac and want it done now, I should let toers drive.
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Quote:
I don't know if it's me,or just the picture,but I'm seeing a gap between the parts of the front idler yoke.
You would be correct, I put shims in it to increase the adjustment. It was tracking nice and square.
 
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Jim.ME
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 3:23 am    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sorry, I missed the shims you already added. If you decide to build something for adjusters you should design them to keep the recoil springs in the adjustment system. Having no "give" in the idlers could lead to a lot of damage of other components, i.e. bearings and final drives.
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 1:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Ya, since the chain is on the downside there doesn't seem to be any reason I cant take a link out and wear it till it fails. I was reluctant to fix it if I had to replace it all right now. The adjuster is too rusty to let back in to take a link out this side and finally blew right out the other day. I thought about taking it apart and seeing if a seal gave way, grease pours out and it wont hold.
I drove it back to the truck, was careful and loaded it, would have never thought it would have stayed on that loose. It wont tighten, blown.
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The inside of the adjuster may be fine, I didn't look to see how hard replacing the rod might be. I brought it home and washed it the other day and wasn't real committed to buying a gob of new stuff but I could go for a cobble job and run the old chains.
Seems I had considered this before but decided it wasn't such an easy feat.
 
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Jim.ME
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 6:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

If you plan on taking a link out you will have access to fix the adjuster while the chain is apart. Take a look at it in the parts catalog. I believe you can clean the rusty part of the piston rod you see outside of the cylinder enough to get by for quite a while. You can clean it up more and better when it is apart. The outer "seal" you see is a wiper, lip faces toward the rear of the tractor, to keep dirt and water out; it does not hold the grease hydraulic pressure. The actual seal holding the grease is on the inner end of the piston rod up inside the cylinder. If the inside of the cylinder will clean up with a little honing you should be able to reuse it. If you do take a link out of the chain the piston rod will be fully in the cylinder, where the cylinder is likely better, instead of near the outer end as you were. If you clean the exposed rod up with a wire brush and some emery cloth, oil it up, you should be able to use the angle function of your blade, with some blocking between it and the idler, to push the adjuster back in. When you remove the set screw beside the grease fitting, to let the grease out prior to pushing the adjuster back, remove the check ball that is under it as well so it doesn't get lost.
 
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Sberry
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 1:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Track pin and bushings Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I ordered a new piston, after I did it I figured out a fix and made another new one for the other side as the tube was nearly rusted thru there too. I would or should have made 2 but I ordered 2 seal kits, hones the cylinders and it all works well now.
I should have got pics, took a link out and its already all dirty from pushing up a burn pile from a building we demo.
 
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