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Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085

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RonON
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob, after looking at the pictures of the oil pan, I wondered how the oil strainer was attached to the pump. Is it secured in some way to the oil pump or does it simply fit over the pump input? From the pictures it appears that if I remove the oval cover on the oil pan that the oil strainer can either be pulled out through the hole in the pan if it not attached to the pump or left in place and can be removed after the oil pan is removed but it is hard to tell from the pictures which is the correct way to remove the oil strainer so that it not damaged during the oil pan removal. Is there any description of removing the oil pan that decribes this? If possible could you scan the page(s) describing the oil pan removal, including any reference to the oil strainer, from the service manual and send them along to me. Much appreciated, Ron.
 
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Charles in Aus.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 6:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote


This is an FE35 tractor but the operation is the same ,






 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Section C Page 24 States:

............and remove oil strainer with gasket-SIX SET SCREWS:

In Canada,CAP SCREWS are the same as referenced in the above......and remove oil strainer with gasket-SIX SET SCREWS:


Section C Page 24 States:

Remove SUMP (oil Pan) with Gasket-SEVEN LONG and TEWLVE short SET screws:

In Canada, CAP SCREWS are the same as referenced in the above......Set Screws.....

Bob...

 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Drain Oil...

Remove OIL STRAINER before dropping Sump /Oil Pan .....

Then drop Sump / Oil Pan...

Bob..

 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob...


 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 12:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have removed the oil pan with no mishaps. So far so good! Now to remove the rear seal retaining block (I think Bob referred to it as the bearing retaining block since it holds both the bearing and the seal). I noticed in a couple of pictures that Bob posted, that the block appears to be held in place by 2 additional bolts towards the interior of the engine. I have added the one picture that I saw the bolt heads behind the retaining block. Do these bolts hold the lower part of the retaining block to the upper half of the bearing block and do they have to be removed prior to removing the lower part of the block? It would appear from the picture that it does but I want to make sure that I do not make any mistakes here. I am currently removing the oil pan gasket from the engine block to allow the bearing block to easily be removed when I get to that part. Thanks Ron

 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Quote:
Do these bolts hold the lower part of the retaining block to the upper half of the bearing block and do they have to be removed prior to removing the lower part of the block?

Yes....Remove these two BOLTS:

Well done RonON ...........Smile

 
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pomester
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

"Do these bolts hold the lower part of the retaining block to the upper half of the bearing block and do they have to be removed prior to removing the lower part of the block?"

Yes, those bolts hold the main bearing cap in place - and they will need to be torqued to specifications when you replace them

"...allow the bearing block to easily be removed ..."

ya - probably not - you'll remove those two bolts and likely find the main bearing cap still firmly fixed - the seals on either side of the cap are compressed into place there will be no slop - - you'll need to be careful - after removing the bolts I'd take a plastic hammer and gently tap the cap first one way then the other (toward the inside of the engine, then the outside) and see if you can get a bit of movement - you have to be careful not to damage the bearing and not burr the cap or block when removing, so very small movements back and forth as you try to work it down and out - take your time and don't succumb to the temptation to stick a screwdriver anywhere -
 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob, I keep reading about some cork seals in these bolts. Are they in the holes of the retaining block? Can you explain where they are exactly, how not to damage them when taking out the bolts and any other advice when removing the block. If damaged can they be "homemade"? I noticed when you were installing the seal and block in your pictures, that you used some blue liquid gasket material on the retaining block. What exactly is the material that you used? Is it high temperature liquid gasket material? From your pictures, I think it is only put onto the outermost surface where the seal touches the retaining block. This might be a bit difficult to do with the crankshaft in place but I could put it on the lower part of the retaining block that I will have removed. In your opinion, will putting it on the lower half of the block only help seal it better? What about putting the material on the top half of the seal just prior to installing it and threading the top part of the seal into the upper part of the retaining block and applying the liquid gasket directly to the bottom half as you did? I assume that you install the seal while the gasket material is still wet/tacky so that it holds the seal in place and also seals it a bit better when dry. How much time between applying the material and having the seal installed i.e. working time before dry? Did you also use it in the split in the seal at the top to seal that split? Did you use it to help pack & seal the felt strips installed in the side slots of the retaining block? Again Thanks. With your help I think that my chnaces are getting greater than 40%. Ron
 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

LOCTITE 495
General purpose, low viscosity instant adhesive. Offers fast bonding on a wide range of materials.

LOCTITE? 495 is a transparent, colorless, low viscosity, general purpose ethyl-based instant adhesive offering fast bonding (5-20 secs fixture time). It is able to bond a wide range of materials, including plastics, rubbers and metals. It can also bond polyolefins when used in combination with Primer LOCTITE? SF 770 or LOCTITE? SF 7239. Available in 20 g, 50 g and 500 g pack sizes.

Possibly Other Mechanics have another preference as to the split line of the SEAL. I glue the split together.

Bob..

 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 3:57 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob, this doesn't give much time to work and might be difficult to use with the crank in place. However, what I was referring to was the blue "silicon" sealer that you point out in a picture that you posted earlier and that I have added to this reply. What is it and what is the purpose of adding it? Also do you know anything about the cork seals that are suppose to be at the end of the sealing block that I cannot see? Where are they and doi need to replace them if I remove the block? Ron

 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:00 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob, I forgot to ask about the felt seals on the side of the bearing block. Can I use the silicon sealer to seal theae also? Ron
 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:00 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Bob, I forgot to ask about the felt seals on the side of the bearing block. Can I use the silicon sealer to seal these also? Ron
 
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RonON
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:04 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips! I will go carefully and hopefully won't do any damage here. Can I tap the block with a piece of wood to push it downward? When installing the felt seals, are they just packed in tightly or is there a procedure specific to installing them. In one of Bob's posts it shows a picture where the seals are sticking out after the block is installed and I assume are just pushed into place firmly to seal the outer part of the block. Ron
 
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John Deere D
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing the rear crank seal on a TEA 2085 Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Quote:
However, what I was referring to was the blue "silicon" sealer that you point out in a picture that you posted earlier and that I have added to this reply. What is it and what is the purpose of adding it? Also do you know anything about the cork seals that are suppose to be at the end of the sealing block that I cannot see? Where are they and do I need to replace them if I remove the block? Ron

The Blue SILICONE Sealer,can be any colour of AUTO MOTIVE OIL Resistant Silicone Sealer.

There is NO MENTION in any of my ORIGINAL HARRY FERGUSON SRVICE MANUALS,of adding a sealer to the REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL BORE.I'm not about to,to take a chance on a possible OIL LEAK "between the outer diameter of the SEAL and the BORE in the Engine Block:

The Cork SEALS, to the best of my knowledge, was located on the FRONT BRG. BLOCK......NOT the REAR BRG. block that your are removing:

Bob...




 
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