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Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump


 
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TDJD
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Joined: 05 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:56 pm    Post subject: Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I?m rebuilding the governor hydraulic pump (for my John Deere A). It was leaking, and now I see why! I?ve never done something like this before, so I have a couple questions.
1) How should I clean everything up?
2) How do I get the oil seal out?
3) Is there some specific oil I?m supposed to use when I put it back together?
Any thing else I should know?
Any information is appreciated.

 
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DIRKB37
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Joined: 27 Nov 2017
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:57 am    Post subject: Re: Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have the same set up on my A but I have not needed to rebuild it yet. I have replaced the hoses. If i was doing it, I would use brake cleaner to clean everything up nice. Hopefully a larger o-ring pick or needle nose pliers will get that seal out and getting a new one in it will pry be a pain. I run John Deere HyGard in my PowrTrol because I hook up to a lot of implements that Dad also hooks up to with more modern tractors. This is not the oil recommended in the manual but I have all new seals in the powrtrol and have had no leaks. Something that may or may not be a big deal is when re-installing the pump make sure it stays in time with the governor and the distributor stays in time.

Good Luck.
 
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Pete in MD
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Joined: 09 Feb 2006
Posts: 3138
Location: Millersville, MD

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Drive the old seals out from the inside using a flat punch. You can use the same oil as you use in the engine or the hyd oil you use in your implements.

The seal for the mag/dist end is AA5616R which has been replaced by AH21815. You can also use CR 13569, National 7472258, or NAPA 13569.

The seal for the governor end is AA5613R. You can also use National 480567 or NAPA 8648. The original double lip seal is no longer available so you have to use two of the replacement seals. In stall the first seal with the garter spring facing the pump gears. Install the second seal with the garter spring facing the outside of the pump. Put a small amount of grease between the two seals. The first seal keeps oil in the pump and the second seal keeps the pump from sucking in air. This is what the original double lip seal did.

If the seals on the small end of the shaft cut a groove in the shaft you can install a #99138 Speedy Sleeve to get a smooth sealing surface.

Never turn the pump on with the engine running. With the engine off turn the pump on and crank the engine over a few turns then start the engine.
 
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Mike M
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I did one years ago. I use mineral sprits in my parts washer for cleaning. IIRC the newer seals are thinner and not a lot of surface to hold them in. I had issue with one or the other wanting to blow out of the case and leak. I had to sort of glue them in with something like hardening Permatex or locktite ?
 
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Resting Relics 1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Governor driven (live) hydraulic pump Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hey TDJD,
One thing I learned the hard way is to be careful not to drive the seal facing in toward the pump too far as it will keep the disengaging coupler from sliding on enough to drive the pump. Just flush on the inside is enough. No more. Good luck!
John
 
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