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1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions

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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:20 pm    Post subject: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I've been tearing apart the 4000 I was given. I was just going to repair it and drive it from there but have since decided to paint it so I'm taking all the exponents off of it. Couple things I've discovered in this process. First off I was taking the temp sender out and broke it off in the block. Any suggestions to getting the sender out?
Second, I took the starter out and discovered that the housing is full of what looks like lithium grease but with metal shavings caked on the housing. I'm assuming this is not normal for these old tractors. Should I go ahead and split it and try to find the grind?
Third question is what does this spring connect to? It's on the throttle linkage.
Fourth questions is, what can I do to clean up my valves? Took off the manifold the other day and well, it's pretty dirty with carbon. Should I scrape what I can off and vacuum it out then when I have the tractor up and running put in some seafoam?
Fifth question, is what do ya'll use for power steering lines as replacements? I'd like to keep solid line but I will go to the flex lines if I have to. I figure I can use a brake line mainly because part of the current line that I pulled off was some copper-nickel stuff.
Last question is that I've heard you're not supposed to move the distributor. What exactly happens if I take my distributor off? Doesn't it throw the timing off? How easy is it to resolve this problem if it is taken off?
Thanks for the input.
 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:22 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


 
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Larry NCKS
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


1. I believe you broke it in the head and not the block. Did you break the capillary tube and bulb? Or do you actually still have threaded nuts in the head?

2. Metal shavings are likely starter drive/ring gear wear or clutch assembly wear. Lithium grease is actually an oil leak that's absorbed dirt. It's either an engine oil leak or transmission seal leak.

3. If it's the one I think it is, it attaches to a tab on the bottom of the battery tray. However, there is more than one spring in the throttle linkage.

4. Unless you're going to take the head off, run some upper lube/cleaner in your fuel for a while.

5. Use whatever it takes to get the job done that will stand the pressure.

6. If you move or remove the distributor, you'll need to get it back in time. Best to get it on the timing mark with the rotor at #1 terminal in distributor before removal.
 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:42 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:43 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Having some issues posting pictures. Trying to get them up
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


It sounds like it is a three cylinder but it would be a good idea to tell if it is 3 or four cylinders since they made the 4000 both ways.
 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:51 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

.


 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote



 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:02 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

1964 4 cylinder gas. 172cu in
 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:13 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote




 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

.

 
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GWheat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:21 pm    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Pretty much snapped it off in the head yes. Doesn?t
seem to be anything left on it. Hard to even get a
grip on it with pliers.
 
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TinCan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 3:30 am    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


I'd soak it with some blaster, or even ATF, then let it sit for a bit. Then tap round on the outside of it lightly to work it in some. It is hollow, drill into it, and screw a screw into it, and pull on it. It won't hurt to drill completely through it, just don't get carried away and drill into the head. It should work free. They are good for sticking in If it's really stuck, there is more work you can do, but start there.

Pat
 
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MarkB_MI
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 4:58 am    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would be most concerned about getting out the temperature sender. Almost anything you do is likely to make matters worse. I would put a small brazing tip on my oxyacetylene torch and apply heat directly to the nut until it glows cherry red. You should then be able grab the nut with pliers or Vise Grips and unscrew it.
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:16 am    Post subject: Re: 1964 Ford 4000 Repair Questions Reply to specific post Reply with quote


GW, what you see inside the bell housing is particles of clutch disc-perfectly normal. As Larry told you the new spring will attach to a tab on the underside of the battery box. Don't worry about carbon. When you find some real work for the 4000 it will clean up clean as a whistle in a couple of hours. It is hard to tell about the temperature sender from the pic. There is supposed to be a bulb that is approx. 1/2 inch diameter that has a flange of very thin material at the outside end that sits on a shoulder in the hole and it is held in by a bushing that is probably a 1/2 inch pipe thread. I have changed 2-3 of these and it is common for them to get stuck and for the capillary to break. When it is stuck I have simply taken a small flat screwdriver and tapped it through the end, give it a sideways tug and the bulb drops right out. Taking the distributor out is no problem. Simply use a punch to tap some witness marks on the stem and the block to tell you where to put it back. They will also help when tuning it to tell you where you started. The steering depends on whether your 4000 is a utility or row crop model. The row crop's rubber lines with pressed ends are still available. I can't tell you about the utility model's steel lines.
 
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