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Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started


 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:44 pm    Post subject: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

First tractor, 56 or 57 310 utility with the loader setup (3 point rear) for simple around the house stuff.
What oil are you guys running in the 100's or b models? Mine is a gasser, manual has temp ranges for the straight weights, but I figure I'll run a mulitviscosity, probably 10w-30 blend, I can use this year round and it'll last. Any thoughts?
What hydraulic fluid and trans fluid are you guys running?
That is this for, I assume it's for the tach, temp. or pressure. there's a square drive one on the left, so I'm thinking this one is prob oil pressure?



 
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Joe (Wa)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I live in an area it seldom gets below freeing or above 90 and because I am old and hard headed I use straight 30 wt in my light duty 310 & 311B engines. I don't doubt that 10w30 would be just as good or better in other weather conditions.

Transmission factory oil was 90 wt gear oil, I don't see any reason to change to something different. 310 oil capacity is about 16 qts, single notch close to the bottom of the dipstick is the full mark.

Hydraulic system is very basic with a spur gear pump and all controls are spool valves, a good quality general purpose hydraulic oil is suitable. Torque tube capacity is about 15 qt if your don't have triple range or hand clutch, if you do have those options about 13-14 qts, check the dipstick.

While you're doing the oil thing, check the steering gear box in front of the radiator. Factory oil is 140 wt gear oil, capacity is just over one qt so you have to buy two or make another trip back to the store.

Your pic is the engine coolant temperature thermal bulb which has a broken capillary tube. The original engine temperature gauge in your gauge board is the vapor pressure type that is driven by a low boiling point liquid in that thermal bulb via a capillary tube.

Pic2 is the tap on the engine oil galley on the left side of the block for the pressure gauge. There are 2 taps, your choice they are the same source. They are npt either 1/8" or 1/4" so very common fittings required to tap in.

Pic3 is the tachometer drive located on the bell housing under the gas tank.

Pic4 is the speedometer drive located in the transmission left side under the shifter cover.

When you get done with this little worklist next weekend, post back and someone will come up with some other minor items that will keep you busy on the next weekend.

Joe












 
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RJKeith
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 4:43 am    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

10W-30 for engine oil. HyTran or the NAPA equivalent for transmission/hydraulic.
 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 10:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Is it possible to have two hydraulic pumps? I think there's one located in hte normal spot that runs the three point, then one with a lovejoy connection to the front tf the tractor with a filter mounted on top, that pulls fluid from the inner cavities of the loader frame.





 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 10:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Also, Anybody know what this holy metal bolt on would have been used for? Newer grade 8 bolts, so it wasn't OE.

 
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Joe (Wa)
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Front pto hydraulic pump is fairly common on utility tractors mostly used to run a loader and sometime backhoe. Reservoir is one of the upright frames plus the hollow frame that runs back and bolted to the back axle.

My 310 had a long life as a loader tractor, used hard and put up wet. External hydraulic leaks all over. Front Pump had a sock type filter in the suction line that had collapsed. I just pulled the whole mess off, gave the good parts away. Run supply and return lines to the loader controls from the upper control valve interlock to run the loader. The internal pump is capable of lifting as much as the tractor is capable of traveling with.

I don't know what the bracket is for. Normally there would be a bracket right there for hydraulic remotes. Looks like the bracket is attached to the lift arm to move up and down? Maybe a light for field work?

Joe
 
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Joe (Wa)
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I think you are probably aware that you need to service your air intake filter. That would be priority with me just looking at that front screen. When neglected for a long time, the oil vapor gets loaded with dust and bakes on the filler and is almost impossible to clean out. I just replace the filler. This site sells filler at the link. You will need two for a complete change out.

Joe
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/S43231_Air Cleaner Filler_15911.htm

 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 7:52 am    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I was planning on running a donaldson filter until I could figure out how to get to the filter. Got to the filter and it looked good inside, but when I hooked it up the tractor ran really rich. Bypassed the filter for now, snow on the ground so it's not really getting very dusty. Was your tractor a 310? I'm still not exactly sure what model the tractor is. Do you have an engine serial number? I'll post mine to see roughly when mine was made. Used it to clear snow with a blade on the back, really likes to get stuck.
 
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Joe (Wa)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 11:00 am    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Yes, I have an early 1956 model 310, engine s/n is 110M03357. The 1956 - 1957 310 tractors' factory engine is the G148. Engine serial nr will be in this order 3 digits + letter + 5 digits stamped vertically into the block above the starter. All the engine s/n I have seen start with 110, the letter is usually a M or N, the 5 digits are the s/n for each individual block. No other G148 engines used in other series tractors (300B, 400B) had s/n first digits 110.

Your tractor could possibly be a model 350 which has a 164 cid engine. It looks very similar to the 310, I can't tell the difference looking at the pics but it won't have an engine s/n starting with 110.

The bottom of the air cleaner has a inner cup that lifts out for cleaning. I have heard that if it is missing can cause flooding, don't know if true.

Joe
 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 8:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Cool, 110M04569 engine serial number. So I'm definitely a case 310. You mind if I use a serial number close to yours to match parts? I'd guess M and N are year codes.

Rich condition was due to high idle on the carb. Adjusted the idle back and readjusted air/fuel mix and main needle and she came to. Still a little poppy and the engine bogs down taking off from 4th high but I'll get it dialed in once I check out the plugs and go through the engine.

I found manuals for it and I appreciate your help so far Joe, it's hard jumping into something without much background.

Did you try taking off the sheetmetal? It looks like I have to take the loader off the front mounts and pull the aux hyd pump if I don't want to cut the metal. If I can get the sheet metal off, it's a simple sandblast and shoot to get a perfect urethane yellow back on her.
 
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BarryfromIA
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:11 am    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

You might want use it for a while to find and fix all the leaks before painting it.
 
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45cole
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I'd like to strip the sheetmetal off to fully power wash the 60+ years of oiled dirt off it. Sandblasting and painting should be pretty easy and a nice change from what it is. A single stage urethane should provide the ability to shoot over the top any areas that get messed up. I've power washed it and found a couple leaks, but not many. Everything I have is a working project, she cleared the drive of snow the second she came off the trailer.
 
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Joe (Wa)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 9:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Need a Little Help With New Tractor Getting Started Reply to specific post Reply with quote

My 310 tractor s/n is 6052765, it is an early 1956. You can use it to identify parts if you want. The 310 was built from 10/1/55 through 9/30/57 so you can see model year runs from Oct through Sept. All 300 series tractors (301,310,311 & 312) were assigned the next s/n as they came off the line regardless of what model the tractor was so the s/n's ascend chronologically but the same engine (except 301 diesel) was built separately for all the above models, combines, repair replacements, etc there is no definite relationship to any tractor s/n. Starting s/n for all 1956 300 series tractors is 6075001, for 1957 6050301. All s/n have 7 digits.

There aren't any real differences in 310 that I know of between 1956 & 1957. The steering prior s/n 6055313 had a 2 stud lever and 3 stud lever after that s/n. They may have been changed to 3 stud levers later by owners as I have done as the 2 stud lever did not stand up well especially on loader tractors. The condition of the studs is something you want to check as excessive wear can break the lever and replacement is a salvage yard item. You also want to check/adjust stud to cam (worm gear) backlash which is done externally. Your manual should have a page re adjustment, if not I will post one for you.

Your tractor has been painted over the original color which shows up on your valve cover and front of the gas tank (your pic above). Some 310 were painted single color for industrial applications but most were 2 tone Flambeau Red body and Desert Sunset sheet metal. Of course it's your tractor paint what ever suits you.

I have a Davis loader that I can remove in less than an hour w/o help. I don't know much about Case loaders but I think yours may be a model 42??? Someone else will have to Id that for you. The sheet metal is easily removed once the loader is off.

Pic1 is the day after I brought my 310, prep for engine ovhl and many other repairs, rewiring, painting...?

Pic2 Tree blew down right in front of my house, missed the house by about 20 foot. Didn't have time to finish painting just slapped it together and put it to work with the 311B.

Joe



 
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