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My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218*

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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:07 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


The work evolved to attach it to the axle pin would be my first concern. Those pins can be a beach to get out did you not have to take the radiator on/off then disassemble the axle Then replete the process to put it back together... My first thoughts I would have went with the dog leg attachment points on the front axle support.

It looks like it was a good fight to install on the front...

Its nice work no doubt and like anything else refinements will come out of it after the fact BTDT... I built a engine stand to remove front wheel drive engines and transmissions I needed it RAT NOW it was simple I have modified it ever since to accommodate my needs Smile... That's part of the fun right...

Simple
 
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Lance-W
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:20 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hobo,NC wrote:
(quoted from post at 08:07:33 02/27/19)
The work evolved to attach it to the axle pin would be my first concern. Those pins can be a beach to get out did you not have to take the radiator on/off then disassemble the axle Then replete the process to put it back together... My first thoughts I would have went with the dog leg attachment points on the front axle support.

It looks like it was a good fight to install on the front...

Its nice work no doubt and like anything else refinements will come out of it after the fact BTDT... I built a engine stand to remove front wheel drive engines and transmissions I needed it RAT NOW it was simple I have modified it ever since to accommodate my needs Smile... That's part of the fun right...

Simple


The axle pin wasn't that hard to get out. It is though very worn and will get replaced. You have to lift the radiator to get the pin out which kinda sucked but I just unbolted it and spaced it up with a couple of chunks of 2x4. My goal was to not loose the coolant/disconnect the radiator as I want to be able to run the engine while in the stand. The biggest challenge was getting the radius rod pin out. I almost thought it was gonna beat me and then the right side one barely started moving. I never did get the left side one out and figure now that the axle is off it should be significantly easier to persuade it to come out. Those will obviously be getting replaced with something that will not rust rock solid.
The outer axle/spindle arms needed to be separated from the main axle anyways as there were all kinds of critters living in the void between them and holding water to help with the rusting process in there. I'll have to figure out a way to seal the bugs outta there when it goes back together.
 
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Lance-W
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

So I have a question on a completely different end of the tractor Smile

My lift arms sink to the ground over night. When you start the tractor in the morning they return to the height they were at the night before. From what I have read this means the lift cylinder needs rebuilt? Not the valves? If I'm already in that cavity would it just be easier to do all of it (valves & cylinder)? The parts aren't that expensive.

Also I have figured out that on the cylinder piston there is an option to go with an o-ring piston or a convention steel ringed piston. Is one better than the other in peoples opinion here? There's a small price difference in them but not enough to be a deciding factor.
 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


How about this suggestion...

I would get it up and running use it before I dug into it deep...

With a load on the arms engine off its been reported if it takes 15min. are more for them to leak down its acceptable...

O-ring question it depends on the condition of the old lift cylinder but yes on a good lift cylinder the O-ring deal is better...

Question do you have access to a Lathe...

You can convert your old lift piston to use the o-ring and back up washer and retain 2 of the steel piston rings... For more info search for post by John Smith...

Pump rebuild, Those pumps sure work good worn slap arse out you would have to drop it to determine parts needed...

Look into live hydraulics for a N its not much more money if any if you can make the pump mounting parts yourself... No modifications to the original pump other than the pump controls need to work...
 
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Lance-W
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 10:38 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hobo,NC wrote:
(quoted from post at 10:40:08 02/27/19)
How about this suggestion...

I would get it up and running use it before I dug into it deep...

With a load on the arms engine off its been reported if it takes 15min. are more for them to leak down its acceptable...

O-ring question it depends on the condition of the old lift cylinder but yes on a good lift cylinder the O-ring deal is better...

Question do you have access to a Lathe...

You can convert your old lift piston to use the o-ring and back up washer and retain 2 of the steel piston rings... For more info search for post by John Smith...

Pump rebuild, Those pumps sure work good worn slap arse out you would have to drop it to determine parts needed...

Look into live hydraulics for a N its not much more money if any if you can make the pump mounting parts yourself... No modifications to the original pump other than the pump controls need to work...



Well then maybe I'll just seal it up good and use it. I can always go in later and fix things.

The Lathe is not a problem. I have a very nice one. I hadn't thought of cutting a o-ring groove in the existing piston Idea Very Happy
 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


O-RING -330
BACKER 330BU9

Look up the spec are if you are lucky TOH will fill ya in on it... I measured a NAA piston and ground down a tool for it... Its like taking candy from a baby I believe its cast iron...

Cut the 3rd ring grove out for the o-ring...
 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 4:38 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


John Smith on another forum wrote:
Well, it's pretty standard. O-rings are "nominal" sizes which means they vary a little and the design is for them to squish down and have the correct fit when installed. The o-ring for the NAA is a 3/16" nominal but it actually measures about .201" plus or minus. The cylinder bore is 2.500 so the o-ring groove depth would be 2.125" (2-1/8 + 3/16 + 3/16 = 2-1/2). Groove width is .3125". However, that's a lot of squish on the "nominal" o-ring size of .201" or so. Most factory NAA pistons have an o-ring groove depth of 2.118 to 2.120. Hard to install the piston in the cylinder otherwise. I cut the piston groove depth about 2.120" if the piston is going in a standard good bore cylinder and 2.125" if I've honed a few thousands out of the cylinder to make the bore slightly oversize (the usual case). It's been a while since I've cut one so this is from my feeble memory, but I think it's right.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1091904&highlight=oring

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=956265&highlight=oring

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=864315&highlight=oring
 
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Lance-W
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 6:46 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Wow, excellent reference information. Especially the last link there. I had tried searching for the info yesterday and couldn't find it. Thank You
 
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Lance-W
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

This weekend was pretty productive even with all the rain (I guess it beats the snow that some of you have posted pictures of!)

So this is where it sits. It needs pressure washed one more time and then has to dry and it'll be ready for the epoxy primer and paint. I paint outside so the weather has to cooperate.






When i originally got the tractor I thought it had severely faded red on it. Now having broke though to what I think is the original color it looks like someone painted it Chevy orange. Poor Ford tractor wearing Chevy paint. Sad





 
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

This is what I found when I drained the transmission/rear end/hydraulic fluid out of it. Caramel milkshake! (this was before pressure washing the outside).







Along the way of dis-assembling it I needed to replace the transmission top cover gasket. The gears are in amazing shape for a 68 year old tractor.


 
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 11:59 am    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Remember the front axle/radius rod pin I mentioned I couldn't get to move? I tried everything heat, a hydraulic press, pounding on it, and it would not even budge. So I went to the real tools Smile





 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


That red paint is know to turn into a pump'kin Sad...

What paint do you plan to paint with..
 
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 5:07 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hobo,NC wrote:
(quoted from post at 17:14:23 03/03/19)
That red paint is know to turn into a pump'kin Sad...

What paint do you plan to paint with..


It'll get SPI red oxide epoxy primer in an attempt to seal all that "stuff" in and then the top coat will be Kirker Ultra-Glo Urethane Enamel. I've used it a bunch of times and it's gotta be better than the spray can bomb stuff that the last guy did. If you look close in the picture it comes right off with the pressure washer and my pressure washer isn't the biggest and baddest pressure washer.



 
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Hobo,NC
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 6:48 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Not familiar with that paint I take it its a single-stage urethane a giant step up from a poor boys spray and go job...

I also take it you pick a red and run with it...

I like CNH 2150 rouge red it does not turn into a pump'kin...

Reds red but the correct grey makes a N...






https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1278175&highlight=paint

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1260010&highlight=paint

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=940641&highlight=paint
 
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: My first 8N 1951 SN# *8N356218* Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Yes it's a single stage urethane.

As for the red I like the red I used on this..........It's called Viper red






The gray was a bit more difficult. I picked a grayish white called Fleet white. We'll see what the experts think when I spray some. The pump in the picture has "pure white" on it.



https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ultra-glo-acrylic-urethane-enamel-paints-c-1453.aspx
 
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