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5th try at posting my paint question


 
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d13series1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:41 am    Post subject: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sooo. got an odd ball question. Allis B. 20 years ago I started a 'resto-mod' on this, it took me 3 tractors to find enough high quality parts. Think polished stainless button heads for all non-structural bolts... As an example I had the finals hot tanked, then I blasted them, all new bearinga and seals, then primed with Rustoleum, and shot them with enamel with hardener. Trans similar without the hot tank, etc. All the 'small' bits like steering gear were Rustoleum black, no hardener.

Well, life happened.

Now I have a 3/4 painted tractor. I can no longer get mathcing paint and the original can is set up.

Plan is to fnish cleaning up the remaining parts, scuff all the big parts, and shoot everything in black primer. I will then topcoat the 'big' pieces with auto grade single stage and do the 'details' in black.

WIll I be OK? the last paint was put on this 10+ years ago..
 
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MI-Bill
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

depends on your concerns, paint lifting or reactions? 10 year old paint, if it takes your preferably lacquer based ,lacquer thinned primer ,primer/filer OK , then the paint should go on fine.
 
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Stephen Newell
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It's not so much you can't find matching paint, the paint you used has faded in 10 years, even kept inside of a building. If you have a small enough piece you can remove, a auto paint store should be able to computer match the existing color. Going over black primer it might take 5-6 coats to cover with automotive paint. A gray or red primer would be more forgiving.
 
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d13series1
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 2:14 am    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Some clarification. This tractor is painted with a combo of TSC enamel (pre-Valspar or Majic) with hardener, and un-hardened
Rustoleum, over Rustoleum primer. It isn't faded to any extent (tractor has seen the sun once in 10 years) or chalky, and other
than a couple spots it is well adhered. The paint that is on it is 3 slightly different shades of orange caused by the change in
batches or parts (the original head went on my other tractor, and the head on it is a significantly different shade).

Plan is to totally repaint it, using more modern materials. Probably SPI epoxy primer and a single stage urethane automotive
paint (on the low end side, its a tractor after all). My big concerns are adhesion and lifting. Since the paint is 'dry' I'm
thinking a scuff and shoot, using the epoxy as a sealer coat where there is paint.

And good call on the primer color. A red would be better. Darn it, already ahve black from my truck project...
 
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d13series1
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 2:15 am    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

By the way, it wasn't that I asked the question 5 times, it's that the system kept logging me out, so I put in a frustrated title
and tried again, and wouldn't you know, that's the one that worked! The little ironies in life.
 
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Stephen Newell
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:42 am    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

A red/orange paint will fade unless it is kept in complete darkness. An alkyd enamel is just prone to fading. Some brands are better than others but they can't escape the fading. Automotive paints use pigments that are more colorfast but they still fade. It's the curse of the color red.

I wouldn't recommend putting an automotive urethane over an alkyd enamel. Not only would you be putting good paint over cheap paint there is the potential of the alkyd lifting from the solvents in the urethane. I think I would soak a spot of the alkyd enamel with the solvent for the urethane before even buying the paint. You could wet a cotton ball with the urethane solvent and lay it on the paint. This would simulate the urethane sitting on the paint wet. You also don't have to put epoxy primer over paint, primer is only needed on bare metal parts.

If you have black epoxy primer you could go ahead and use it. Just go over the epoxy primer with a red surfacing primer prior to painting. The red primer would cover the black in one coat.
 
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David G
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I would not re-prime over existing paint.
 
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kencombs
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 5th try at posting my paint question Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Except that it is good practice to have a uniform base color so that the final color is not splotchy. That sometimes happens with paints that do no cover well or the operator doesn't get even coverage.

So, I recommend an allover coat of Epoxy mixed as a sealer if the vehicle has a wide range of primer shades now.
 
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