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2910 Gauge Cluster Help


 
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Bouncer
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:23 pm    Post subject: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I recently bought a 2910 that was in overall pretty good
shape, but I did have a few small things that I wanted to
address just to make it the way I wanted it. I?ve got some
hydraulic leaks fixed and a few other odds and ends taken
care of. I got my new gauge cluster today that is the same as
they sell on this site, but it came with no instructions and
apparently there are no instructions sent with these no matter
where you order them. The terminals are laid out completely
differently and are not marked. Does anyone have experience
with where to put what wires from the old cluster to the new
one? Also in the second picture you can see how I found the
wiring for the fuel sending unit to the gauge. The whole cowl
area was packed full of leaves and debris, something had
been living a comfortable life in there. Anyways one of the
wires has been chewed through and looks like it has been
grounded out at one point, so I obviously will have to fix that.
However can someone shed some light on how those wires
are supposed to be? Thanks



 
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Destroked 450
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Location: Harned, Ky.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Looks like you have the wrong cluster.
Early 2910's used a cluster like older models, part # E5NN10849BA on this site
Later 2910's used a cluster like seen on the new --30 series, part # 83954555 on this site

What's wrong with the old cluster, if the lens is glazed over you can purchase a new replacement lens.
 
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Bouncer
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 11:02 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

It is in fact the proper cluster and it is the first one you listed.
As for why I am replacing it, I?m not sure what difference it
makes. However to answer your question, it is because the
tach is broken.
 
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Bern
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:28 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

That appears to be the wrong cluster to me. That cluster uses bi-metal gauges like an old 3000 did, rather than magnetic gauges like your original one has. I can see this because it uses a voltage stabilizer on it, the device that looks like a circuit breaker with the B and I terminal on it.

If you attempt to use this dash, your gauges will not be accurate, not even close.
 
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sotxbill
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:10 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


If the tach goes the correct way... then it MIGHT be the correct cluster but the supplier put a dummy voltage stabilizer on it...

AND you old cluster had to run a ground to each gauge to make it work were your new cluster has a single ground point...

BUT... in my experience, the heat gauge will not work correctly. It will read hot...
 
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sotxbill
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:11 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


If the tach goes the correct way... then it MIGHT be the correct cluster but the supplier put a dummy voltage stabilizer on it...

AND you old cluster had to run a ground to each gauge to make it work were your new cluster has a single ground point...

BUT... in my experience, the heat gauge will not work correctly. It will read hot...

also the cluster is deeper and may hit the gas tank seem on some models and not let the cluster sit flat on the dash cowling..
 
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Destroked 450
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:22 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Post a photo of the other side of the clusters, also when was that 2910 made?
 
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Bouncer
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Here is the front of the gauge. Yes it is the correct part number and yes it is the same one they sell on this site as well. I guess I will just put my old one back in and not have a tach, which is moderately inconvenient for pto work.

 
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Best I can tell it is an ?84 model.
 
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Destroked 450
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


After a bit od search there appears to be a 3rd cluster that your tractor uses.
Google D8NN10849SP.
Looks look your old gauge.
 
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Bouncer
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 7:14 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I appreciate all your help, but I get zero Google results with
that number of D8NN10849SP. When I type it in Amazon or
eBay I got the references to the one I already have. So this is
definitely the case of one new aftermarket part does not cross
over and replace 5-8 old part numbers like they say. I have
packaged up the other cluster and it is going back today.
 
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Destroked 450
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Sorry! D8NN10849SB
But after looking it up again I realize it not what you need, it's has a speed o meter instead of a tach.
Your old cluster was used till 85, then they changed to cluster #83954555 with is the same as used on the later 3930/4630.
I actually like the gauges in that cluster better and have converted a couple of my tractors to the newer cluster.
 
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 3:18 pm    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Are those newer ones plug and play? I don't mind having to modify wiring, I have done electromechanical work for many years. I just hate trying to make something work when I have no wiring diagram on the new parts to know what goes where.
 
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Sean in PA
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 4:25 am    Post subject: Re: 2910 Gauge Cluster Help Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Power from the key switch should go to the "B" terminal. The terminals with no wire on the back of each gauge should go to the respective sender (fuel or temp).

It looks like all of the original bulbs are two-wire so they should just get inserted into their respective holes.
 
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