Can this block be saved?

[BT in NE]

It's a 1930 Case model C. What are my options? I'd like to keep the numbers matching if I could. Any ideas are welcome, thanks. BT



 

[casecollectorsc]

Did a C a couple years ago with that problem. Used copper coat and kept the torque lower on that bolt. No problem yet, but only gets parade duty now....

 

[thehickdaddy]

Brazen it up and run it. And never give it a second thought.
Uncle fixed a similar crack in a 1935 L block back in the 1960's.
It has been pulling glenco field cultivators and 4-16s for decades now.
I will try to post photos
 

[C.Amick]

I would be tempted to grind the exterior crack out a little and weld it in a few spots and J.B. Weld the rest of the exterior crack to keep it from leaking. Probably should drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from traveling during welding. I'm no expert, however.
 

[george md]

BT,
The failure looks like the stud was put in way too tight. I fixed
a MM 445 block for that reason , and a similar crack. Don't have any
photos of that repair but have photos of other repairs.
Lock n stitch makes the plugs that you need to repair those cracks.
Remove stud and lace to the hole , bore the hole for a keensert
thread repair and install. Using the same plugs ,do the outside
crack.keenserts are much better for that repair that helicoil,
larger and stronger.
Will post a photo of a ford 427 side oiler that I did last year,
it was cracked in the valley on both sides.
holler if you need info.Also a link to more photos and other
things.

george

Beginning the lock n stitch repair

It was cracked in both banks

more repairs

 

[C.Amick]

What did you use to fill in between the plugs, J.B. Weld?
 

[mEl]

The process involves interlacing the bolts, spacing them so you drill in the center between each of the bolts so they are both threaded then another is threaded into the new hole which has threads in the side of each previously drilled bolt so there is a solid row of new material. I hope that is a sufficient explanation, possibly the poster would show the special bolts and tooling involved, they come in kits I believe.
 

[george md]

In the first photo you can see the heads of some of the plugs cut
off ,but not completely ground smooth. The 2nd shows 2 of the heads
lying next to the oil gallery and 1 with the head still on. once they
are ground smooth ,you can drill between that row and do it again making
the row solid material, then grind smooth . 3rd photo shows the plugs
ground smooth.
mEl did a good job of explaining the process .

I do a lot off cast iron welding ,and that is not the place for welding unless
you have an oven to heat the block to at least 1000 deg f before and during
the welding . Post heat to 1500 and slow cool , 1/2 hour to get down to 1200.
look at the link in the first post and see some of the cast welding jobs.

The reason I said use lock n stitch plugs is because the threads hooked
and tend to pull the crack together rather than spread it like an iron tite
plug .

Look up the website for lock n stitch and see the shape of the threads. That
Ford block took about 150 plugs ,but where do you find another 427 side oi;er.

Keenserts use standard taps and they are much thicker wall than a helicoil thus
spreading the load over a larger area.

george
 

[BT in NE]

I had considered using the plug method you suggest, but was worried that they might cause the crack to spread since it ends at the deck surface. Not sure if brazing would work either, I'm concerned about the heating process. Thanks to all for the responses. BT
 

[george md]

BT ,

The reason I said use lock n stitch plugs is that they don't spread the

casting . the threads are at an angle to pull the crack together, the threads

pull against the head of the plug so it doesn't apply force to spread the crack.

Tapered plugs like iron tight will spread the crack.

The welding I do is with cast iron rod ( cast iron in stick form) and

oxy / acet torch.

george
 

[BT in NE]

Ok, I will look into them. Thanks, BT.