IH 300 Utility Loader - No Front PTO

[Michael De Paola]

I acquired a "Superior Equipment Division" loader off another 300 Utility and then discovered I don't have the PTO fan pulley in the front to drive it. The loader has it's own pump which doesn't look as large as the standard front PTO pump that came with some tractors. Does anyone know of either a source for the PTO crankshaft pulley I'd need to drive this or do you suppose I could run the loader off the tractor's hydraulics? Any advice or suggestions would be well appreciated!
 

[Janicholson]

The common primary pump for loaders is located on the front of the lower bolster and driven by a shaft coming out of the crankshaft. THis easy method supplies 16gpm or so of 2000psi (or so) of hydraulic pressure. Pulley setups are possible, and work OK but are harder to align and fabricate the added crank pulley. It will work off of the on board hydro if it is working well, but it will not be as fast. Levers and IH spool valves mount to the right of the seat where a blanking plate is located (if there are no valves there now). Jim
 

[Michael De Paola]

Thank you very much for your reply. I realize I probably should have included some more information in my post - the perils of asking technical questions with screaming children around. The loader came with a front mounted pump. It doesn't look quite as large as the standard IH 16 GPM pump, but the problem is my crankshaft pulley can't accommodate the pump shaft. I was debating between drilling the crankshaft pulley to mount the splined drive bracket (which I have) for the pump (not entirely sure how feasible this is), finding a pulley from a tractor with a front PTO which would already be drilled to mount the bracket (not sure how feasible this is either) or tapping into the tractor's existing hydraulics, which do work well. Any opinion on how you'd proceed if you were me would be greatly appreciated.
 

[Janicholson]

I would make an adapter from the front pulley to the pump drive shaft. a 3/8" steel plate the size of the Flange of the pulley with 6 1/4-28 screws tapped into the inner pulley edge will drive it sufficiently. A machine shop can make a broached set of splines in the center for the shaft, or you can weld a spline adapter on the plate. Jim
 

[Wardner]

This is easier. The keyed shaft and coupling are available from the Surplus Center in NE. The only machine work is the 1/2" hole through the coupling. What's not shown is the solid coupling at the front end of shaft. Match the shaft diameter size and one half of the flexible coupling to pump shaft, probably one inch. In fact, everything will probably be one inch except the front end of crankshaft which will be 1.375" (I think). Everything can be done without any tractor disassembly except driving out the crankshaft rollpin.
 

[Wardner]

If concerned about rollpin strength, drive another one inside the first one. IH used to do that frequently.
 

[realolman]

I don't know if my situation has much to do with yours or not, but I have a 300 u with a 2001 loader that runs from the tractor's hydrauics and it works fine.
 

[Michael De Paola]

Thanks everyone for your advice and guidance. I think this is the way I'm going to go. Out of curiosity though, what needs to come off to drive out the crankshaft rollpin?
 

[Wardner]

You just rotate the crank to where you can position a long round 1/2" drift (actually slightly smaller) and pound it with a hammer. It comes out easily with a one pound hammer. The roll pin is hardened so it shouldn't mushroom.
 

[mkirsch]

Can't you swap pulleys with the guy you bought the loader from?
 

[Michael De Paola]

Wow! Surplus Center is not the world's fastest shippers, but I finally got the parts. They all go together okay, but the seem to have changed the splined coupler half. It's now a big old honking piece of steel and I'm concerned it's going to interfere with the axle. How good is your axle clearance?