You have a new JD convert. I'm gonna need some on-going advice

Disowned

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Location
Minnesota
I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?
 
My 50 likes to have the choke pulled out about 1" for the first 30 seconds when it's cold outside. You should do an ignition tune up. Make sure your plugs are hot enough and use a timing light to reset the timing.
 
I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?
That oil shutoff at the sediment bowl have a tendency to have the diaghrams go bad from use of alcohol in your gas and gas will then drain back to the crankcase. wwwgreenpartsofva.com have diaghrams that are resistant to alcohol to prevent filling your crankcase with fuel.
 
I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?
Sounds like you have a live-pto. If so, the regular pto lever must be engaged Before you try to start your 50. Leaving it engaged when you shut the tractor off eliminates the need for this precautionary step.
 
My 50 likes to have the choke pulled out about 1" for the first 30 seconds when it's cold outside. You should do an ignition tune up. Make sure your plugs are hot enough and use a timing light to reset the timing.
I'll try only a partial choke to begin with next time. I've seen my manuals describe the timing tune-up process but I'm gonna have to spend quite a bit more time studying it before I can wrap my head around it
 
That oil shutoff at the sediment bowl have a tendency to have the diaghrams go bad from use of alcohol in your gas and gas will then drain back to the crankcase. wwwgreenpartsofva.com have diaghrams that are resistant to alcohol to prevent filling your crankcase with fuel.
Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. I've heard a bit about the leaking shut-off, but what path would it take from the filter valve to find it's way to the crank-case if this were to occur?
 
Sounds like you have a live-pto. If so, the regular pto lever must be engaged Before you try to start your 50. Leaving it engaged when you shut the tractor off eliminates the need for this precautionary step.
Yes mine has the engine-driven independent PTO. I understand that if one were to want to use either the hydraulics or the PTO, both these features would have to be engaged (at the hydraulic pump by the governor and the PTO lever to the right of the gearshift column) prior to starting the tractor. But if one would have these disengaged prior to starting, would it be "easier" for the tractor to fire up with less resistance on the whole works? Or is that just a farce? I think JD mentioned this in the operators manual if I remember right
 
I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?
Welcome to the dark side! You will find a pattern that works for you. You will also find the properly functioning green ones to be more difficult or appear to be more difficult to start below freezing than a properly functioning red one. A 4 cylinder has 2 chances to fire each revolution while a 2 cylinder has 1. So it has to spin farther. A block heater helps even on my b I bought the pipe plug one for the bottom. You will replace plugs more frequently albeit there’s only 2. I don’t drain carb just turn off gas at the tank. If it’s an all fuel don’t use the 3 way valve unless you like putting the cork gasket in.
 
sorry if this posts twice it seems to copy my reply and I hit post
So my manual for the b says half throttle to start and that’s always worked well choked until it pops. I was the one in the green family who bought a super c. Nothing wrong with it starts great and steers beautiful. But it does use twice as much fuel. And it is nice to stand up on the John Deere and stretch while I am mowing those were it’s real advantages back in the day
 
Welcome to the dark side! You will find a pattern that works for you. You will also find the properly functioning green ones to be more difficult or appear to be more difficult to start below freezing than a properly functioning red one. A 4 cylinder has 2 chances to fire each revolution while a 2 cylinder has 1. So it has to spin farther. A block heater helps even on my b I bought the pipe plug one for the bottom. You will replace plugs more frequently albeit there’s only 2. I don’t drain carb just turn off gas at the tank. If it’s an all fuel don’t use the 3 way valve unless you like putting the cork gasket in.
Thank you ;) And makes sense. I guess that hadn't occurred to me that there's double the chance of firing off with double the number of cylinders for my familiar Red machines. I've seen most of the Farmalls around here with water heaters of various sorts, including what I've got on my M, but most of the Green machines around my circle of friends are shed queens that only come out in the summer and 3 days before a parade. I'm going to partake in that too, but I also want my 50 to do some honest work for me any time of year. I may look into plumbing a heater plug into it. Do you have any pictures or advice on how this is normally done on a JD 2 cyl?

My 50 is a normal gas model with a oil pressure auto-shutoff at the filter. Do you know if there's ever been a way to add or over-ride that with a manual shut-off up-stream or down-stream of the bowl/valve?
 
sorry if this posts twice it seems to copy my reply and I hit post
So my manual for the b says half throttle to start and that’s always worked well choked until it pops. I was the one in the green family who bought a super c. Nothing wrong with it starts great and steers beautiful. But it does use twice as much fuel. And it is nice to stand up on the John Deere and stretch while I am mowing those were it’s real advantages back in the day
Glad I'm not the only black sheep around here 😉
I'll try a little more throttle too. I do like the great big operator's platform on the JD. It was something that stuck out to me when I first sat on it vs my IH's. Might be a little weird not being able to kick my feet back under me with that battery box in the way, but the extra lateral room is nice.
 
Yes mine has the engine-driven independent PTO. I understand that if one were to want to use either the hydraulics or the PTO, both these features would have to be engaged (at the hydraulic pump by the governor and the PTO lever to the right of the gearshift column) prior to starting the tractor. But if one would have these disengaged prior to starting, would it be "easier" for the tractor to fire up with less resistance on the whole works? Or is that just a farce? I think JD mentioned this in the operators manual if I remember right

Yes mine has the engine-driven independent PTO. I understand that if one were to want to use either the hydraulics or the PTO, both these features would have to be engaged (at the hydraulic pump by the governor and the PTO lever to the right of the gearshift column) prior to starting the tractor. But if one would have these disengaged prior to starting, would it be "easier" for the tractor to fire up with less resistance on the whole works? Or is that just a farce? I think JD mentioned this in the operators manual if I remember right

I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?
Having the pto and hydraulic pump engaged does not put any noticeable load on the starter.
With more time and experience you'll learn the choke/throttle position that your 50 likes.
 
34BDCA05-97B9-4A1C-9786-03C085F3CE7D.jpeg
 
Also this is the fuel screen. Most red ones are at the bowl. If your 50 has this that would be something different than the zenith carb on the super c
 
So keep a good battery in the box under the seat that’s what they went to after trying to cram a little one under the hood. And if it’s cold and it has trouble remember you might have to hold the starter twice as long as the red one. You are better off giving it a good try holding that button down for a minute. Then go away hook the battery charger up and go back inside get a snack let the starter cool. Repeat. And give up twice as fast if flooded. You will find the sweet spot. Keep a set or 2 since most Late b small plug and later come in a 4 pack of new plugs on hand always. Along with gaskets for carb. Change oil often they like to flood a bit of gas in that’s why yours has the electric shut off it’s best to get that functioning my guess is it might be just might have to clean some crud out somewhere. So my fuel bowl has a manual shutoff like you asked right at the tank just like the super c I’m not sure if that was original it looks like the farmall one So it might not be but it works good. Check fuel screen. And anything you can set it up to do you will reap the benefits of using half as much fuel as if it was painted red. I’m not saying when I go into tall grass I didn’t wish my mower was on the super c or the Ford 2000 but there are some real benefits to it. 1/4 turn of the fuel screw and you can switch to e85 when it’s hot out. 50 degrees or above. No gaskets to worry about a bit more power to be gained if your using it and smells like granny’s baking bread. Happy tractoring! And sorry for the long post but I’m getting used to the new format I do like how fast it adds a picture
 
I too have a Super C and a B and I am no longer conflicted! My B is temperamental as well. The throttle/governor hook 3/8" off of the spring post, 1/2 choke, open the fuel bowl and crank it. If I miss it and it floods I shut off the throttle lever and crank it for a bit and then try again with no choke. I used to get really annoyed and now I just go through the procedure..... Have fun learning it!
 

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