You have a new JD convert. I'm gonna need some on-going advice

[Disowned]

Having the pto and hydraulic pump engaged does not put any noticeable load on the starter.
With more time and experience you'll learn the choke/throttle position that your 50 likes.

Awesome, Amen. I thought that was phooey when I read it but I wanted to make sure with you real JD guys if that was actually the case.

"We'll start the tractor without any extra friction on the gears for PTO and Hydraulics"
"We'll then let the tractor warm up sufficiently to shut it off and restart it again after we re-engage the hydralics and PTO"
"Then we'll go to work, assuming it starts right up again"

What???!

 

[Disowned]

I too have a Super C and a B and I am no longer conflicted! My B is temperamental as well. The throttle/governor hook 3/8" off of the spring post, 1/2 choke, open the fuel bowl and crank it. If I miss it and it floods I shut off the throttle lever and crank it for a bit and then try again with no choke. I used to get really annoyed and now I just go through the procedure..... Have fun learning it!

I will try. Just gotta learn it. There's only one thing sweeter than the sound of a Johnny Popper running. And that's the sound of a Johnny Popper STARTING!! Ha!

 

[Disowned]

Also this is the fuel screen. Most red ones are at the bowl. If your 50 has this that would be something different than the zenith carb on the super c

Great pictures FF. Thank you. My 50 doesn't have anything around the carb for a filter screen or fuel shutoff like that. What do they call that? Was it standard fare for the B at the time? I think everything is up top for the 50 if I wanted to go that route whether it was to add on or replace the whole works for older manual shutoffs.

But now I know how a water heater would be plumbed in if I went that route

And by the way, that's the coolest lawn mower and the FIRST JD mower I have ever seen. We have hundreds of old Artsway and Woods mowers mounted on Farmalls, Allis Chalmers, and Ford tractors floating around these parts, but that's the first Green Lawn Mowing Machine I have seen. Makes me kinda jealous.

Happy new year everybody. It's WAYY past my bed-time

 

[Poppy Johnny]

So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.

When starting the tractor turn on the sediment bowl first and give the carburetor gas, put the throttle in low/mid, the choke on that series of tractor is self-adjusting to an extent when you pull out the knob it will feel like the slightest of pushes will close it, it should work fine but the tractor is old so after the tractor gets started well push the knob all the way down just to make sure it's shut.

I would recommend a read of the manual to double check this as my tractor is a 60 and there could be differences, keep in mind depending on the condition of the tractor any number of minor things could give you problem with ignition so if problems persist the first thing I would do is check the sparkplugs to make sure if they are clean and if you are getting spark, if you are then that means your carb is the most likely issue.

As far as I know however the power-trol or PTO being engaged or disengaged shouldn't matter unless of course you have an implement hooked up which would obviously make the started have trouble turning over the engine.

 

[NoDakInMN]

I've got 7 of these tractors, 5 of which are gas and two are diesel. The one thing they all have in common, is that they like to be used and when they are on a regular basis, they begin to start and run better without any adjustments. I have a '44 A that for years was my go to tractor for taking to Rollag, and sadly, some years it wouldn't get started for the first time all summer until right before the show. I always shut it down by running the carb out of gas, so there isn't much of a risk of fouling and I also open the bowl drain if it is going to sit for a while as I learned the hard way that condensation can collect there and cause issues. On such occasions, it is rather finicky to start but by the time it has 3 to 4 hours of run time or more each day for several days in a row, it starts and runs so sweet that I hate to put it away when the show is over. I have found this to be true on my other tractors as well.

I always keep the bowl on the carb empty by running it dry to shut them down. Granted, sometimes you don't need to if you are going to run it soon again but sometimes you wind up not doing so and neglect to drain it, so it is just a good habit I've adopted that spares me from cleaning up a mess. Nothing bad happens in a dry bowl when your tractor has to sit for a while.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So I did a quick search based on your pto question and omr2033 is your operators manual. It is a freebie download from John Deere themselves. You have several options of pto. Both appear to be controlled like the Bs with the angled shift lever by your right foot. It says in big bold words in the manual do not shift with the engine running! So my b the pto is run off the transmission. Call it what you like I was always told this is a live pto. Tractor transmission hand clutch is engaged controls pto based off where pto engagement lever is located. Normal operation is get the tractor running. Pull clutch lever back. Engage pto control lever while slowly letting out the clutch slipping the gears in place till finally snapping the clutch all the way forward. There should be 80 lbs of resistance on the clutch lever and an audible pop when it is engaged. Slipping it like that is a bit harder on my clutch which I can readily get parts for and rebuild easily and easier on my transmission and pto parts which I can’t easily replace. This is one option for your 50.
The other option you might have is a somewhat independent pto operated by a second lever. Still has the same angled short lever by your foot but will have extra lever on right rear corner of seat. This is a clutch. I hesitate to call it an actual independent pto like a 4020 has where it’s one lever completely independent separate clutch and shift controlled in one motion and I am most unfamiliar with this middle type as they were figuring out what the real answer to controlling the power shaft was. Carefully play with yours and see but that manual should help you out

 

[Poppy Johnny]

So I did a quick search based on your pto question and omr2033 is your operators manual. It is a freebie download from John Deere themselves. You have several options of pto. Both appear to be controlled like the Bs with the angled shift lever by your right foot. It says in big bold words in the manual do not shift with the engine running! So my b the pto is run off the transmission. Call it what you like I was always told this is a live pto. Tractor transmission hand clutch is engaged controls pto based off where pto engagement lever is located. Normal operation is get the tractor running. Pull clutch lever back. Engage pto control lever while slowly letting out the clutch slipping the gears in place till finally snapping the clutch all the way forward. There should be 80 lbs of resistance on the clutch lever and an audible pop when it is engaged. Slipping it like that is a bit harder on my clutch which I can readily get parts for and rebuild easily and easier on my transmission and pto parts which I can’t easily replace. This is one option for your 50.
The other option you might have is a somewhat independent pto operated by a second lever. Still has the same angled short lever by your foot but will have extra lever on right rear corner of seat. This is a clutch. I hesitate to call it an actual independent pto like a 4020 has where it’s one lever completely independent separate clutch and shift controlled in one motion and I am most unfamiliar with this middle type as they were figuring out what the real answer to controlling the power shaft was. Carefully play with yours and see but that manual should help you out

I agree about this, the PTO lever by the shifter in front of your right leg is only for shut on or off prior to starting the engine, the same goes for the live hydraulic power switch, however the lever on the battery box beside/behind your right leg which leads directly to the PTO and it's clutch via a armature is permitted for use during operation, I would consult the manual though to make sure for your model.

 

[Disowned]

The 'independent' type PTO seems to be the set-up mine has. Sounds like I shouldn't have to worry about having that and the hydraulic pump disengaged to assist in any startups, so thanks fellas for that advice. Still makes me wonder why the manual says it's "good practice" to disengage these if not in use. Less wear on those systems I suspect? The PTO clutch lever (not the engagment lever by the right brake) is where its supposed to be on the right side of the battery box, and the power-trol lever is also on the right side of the seat, even tho I've seen a number of pictures where this is on the left side. The shaft that the lever bolts to looks like it was ambidextrous/switchable from the factory.

 

[Disowned]

I've got 7 of these tractors, 5 of which are gas and two are diesel. The one thing they all have in common, is that they like to be used and when they are on a regular basis, they begin to start and run better without any adjustments. I have a '44 A that for years was my go to tractor for taking to Rollag, and sadly, some years it wouldn't get started for the first time all summer until right before the show. I always shut it down by running the carb out of gas, so there isn't much of a risk of fouling and I also open the bowl drain if it is going to sit for a while as I learned the hard way that condensation can collect there and cause issues. On such occasions, it is rather finicky to start but by the time it has 3 to 4 hours of run time or more each day for several days in a row, it starts and runs so sweet that I hate to put it away when the show is over. I have found this to be true on my other tractors as well.

I always keep the bowl on the carb empty by running it dry to shut them down. Granted, sometimes you don't need to if you are going to run it soon again but sometimes you wind up not doing so and neglect to drain it, so it is just a good habit I've adopted that spares me from cleaning up a mess. Nothing bad happens in a dry bowl when your tractor has to sit for a while.

That's encouraging to hear. I plan on putting some hours on this thing in the spring so maybe it'll get used to working and starting again. It hasn't seen much use the last few years. Previous owner added a hour meter/tach to it when it was rebuilt a few years ago and only shows 21 hrs.
I like the idea of running the carb out as you shut down but with this auto-shutoff filter I don't think I can do that. I think a 1/2" wrench and a catch can are going to have to live permanently in the tool box and I'll just drain it afterwards.
Been quite a few years since I've been up to Rollag. I'll have to change that. We have a pretty good local show and I might take it there this fall to show it off. By then I shouldn't be quite as awkward with that hand clutch

 

[Disowned]

This is what the old-timer looks like, if'n you were curious to know. The cause for much grief, strife, and family crisis

 

[Poppy Johnny]

This is what the old-timer looks like, if'n you were curious to know. The cause for much grief, strife, and family crisis

Some people need to stop being picky, my 60 came from an estate auction, engine froze, without tires and a whole host of other issues.

EDIT: (For clarification please don't take my words the wrong way, I am not directing the above at you, I am referring to your family giving you nonsense over it although I know you are slightly joking here)

and the power-trol lever is also on the right side of the seat, even tho I've seen a number of pictures where this is on the left side. The shaft that the lever bolts to looks like it was ambidextrous/switchable from the factory.

The shaft can be changed, I prefer mine to be on the other side, mostly because between the hand clutch for the tractor, the engine throttle and the pto clutch you would have way too many tasks assigned to that one arm and besides the hydraulic arm controls can be moved with ease regardless of if you are right or left-handed, so it doesn't really matter.

 

[Disowned]

Awesome
One of these days I might find a project tractor I can rip into just to learn more about how these dinosaurs work. Up to this point I've preferred working-condition rigs that I can just cover my eyes if something doesn't seem quite right. This 50 is my first work-ready and parade-ready machine.
There's a lot of stuff going on at the right side of my tractor so I may switch that power-trol lever back to the left side. My left arm is weak enough as it is lol

 

[Disowned]

I see there's an alternator bolted to your machine. I don't mind letting this thread wander. I've known a lot of tractors around here that were converted from 6 volt to 12 volt that had an alternator stuck in as a replacement for a magneto and such but for a tractor that already has a 12v system, what are the advantages of having an alternator instead of the factory generator?

 

[Poppy Johnny]

I see there's an alternator bolted to your machine. I don't mind letting this thread wander. I've known a lot of tractors around here that were converted from 6 volt to 12 volt that had an alternator stuck in as a replacement for a magneto and such but for a tractor that already has a 12v system, what are the advantages of having an alternator instead of the factory generator?

Alternators provide much more power more efficiently for charging the battery while having generally a better long-term reliability of use, from a utilitarian standard there is a good reason farmers swapped from generators to alternators in mass.

On the flip side beyond utilitarianism Generators are prized mainly for the aesthetics of them and the overall collectability they add to the tractor as they are 'original' and because so many were taken off and disposed of with the advent of alternators it only adds another layer to it, a fact made worse when no reproduction generators are made for the part market.

In other words, it depends on what you are doing with your tractor, if your generator works fine and you aren't suffering any major problems keeping the battery charged it shouldn't be much an issue, but if you decide to cover your tractor in Christmas Lights or mount a speaker for music during parades outside what the tractor's energy requirements call for you might want to put the generator in storage and add an alternator.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Simplicity would be the other advantage. The generators had an external voltage regulator that sometimes needed fiddled with to have the right output. Way back when I suppose the voltage regulator was 5 bucks to replace and the generator would probably have been 30. That gap in price has closed as they don’t have a stack of regulators at the dealer anymore. An aftermarket regulator can cost 60 to 90 bucks and the generator is now kind of a specialty item that commands a good price. An alternator can cost around 125 still for a cheap one or even less. And you are replacing the internal regulator while you are at it. Less wires. You can carefully jump it with your modern pickup. Techs got used to 12v in most things bigger than an atv. Just changing times. 12v doesn’t really get you much in the performance as far as cranking over the ccas are a better measure of the capacity. The old timers talked about needing nice big heavy cables for 6v which is probably just as true today it’s just all the manufacturers cheap out on the copper.

 

[used red MN]

I'll try not to make this too wordy, but this is my first post from as a long-time appreciative lurker on this site forum. I'll try to give a short background. I grew up a Red Guy on a small farm in MN where dad still uses a host of tractors from his generation and Grandpa's (IH/Farmall A, C, H's, M's, 560, 806, & 856). Of my own, at my property now I have a B with a Woods mower (how else can you make lawn mowing fun?) and an M with a Du-al loader for pushing snow.
I've always been fascinated by the old 2-banger John Deeres. I've wanted a parade tractor for a long time, as well as something I could turn some dirt with and use for cutting long grass and making a vegetable garden.
So I committed the Ultimate Sin and recently bought a '56 model 50. My father-in-law, who's worked at the local Case-IH dealer for a couple decades, didn't speak to me for a week. My Dad, who I think still loves me, didn't speak to me for 6 days. But... it is a gorgeous tractor and decked out with all the upgrade options from the era, with the exception of the 800 series 3-pt hitch as (I think) was available at the time. The old-timer I bought it from was really good and generous enough to include an operator's manual, parts book, and the general service manual, which I have been reading through many of these last nights. I will no doubt have many more questions in the future, but the main thing I'd like some advice on is tips for starting it up in colder climates. It's been warm up here so far, relatively speaking, with a temp around 32F and I thought I'd let the old girl run for a bit on a nice day like today. It was hard starting in the 50F range last month when I bought it.
Today, I clicked the ignition switch on to the first notch, pulled the choke, nudged the throttle a bit past low idle and pressed the starter pedal. It fired right away then died. I cranked many times with varying levels of throttle and choke to no avail. So then I pulled the plug to the carburetor bowl to see if there was gas. There was a bowl full that I drained. So then I hit the starter with an empty bowl to make sure the auto gas shut-off at the sediment/filter bowl was working under oil pressure. Much to my surprise it fired right-off and I killed the ignition as gas started surging out of the carburetor plug shortly after. I re-installed the plug and tried again. Nothing for many more cranks of the starter. Finally I got it to fire on full choke again, maybe out of coincidence. Seems to run best for the first minute or so on half choke before I can let if off all the way and run on its own. Once its going for a bit, low idle and wide open throttle are right on the money at 600/1375rpm.
So, what I'm asking is how do you guys go about your starting sequence for these old 2 cyl wonders?
How much throttle do you give it to start?
How much choke?
Do you begin with a drained carburetor? (That seems weird)
Does having the Power-Trol hydraulics and/or PTO engagement switch turned off make a difference for starting? The previous owner said he always had these switches engaged to on all the time.
I have been spoiled by my Farmall M. Down to -15F it has never failed to fire right up, often times with no choke. What are your John Deere tricks?

Hello Disowned welcome to YT. What part of MN are you from or actually where are you now? I will send you a “Private Message” called a “Conversation” look at the top bar there is a “Envelope” icon. When you receive a PM it will have a number on it. Click it and open the Conversation from me.

 

[Disowned]

You fellas are a wealth of knowledge, thanks for the info. Now if they could make an alternator that was smooth, cylindrical, and painted black.....

 

[wore out]

Now if they could make an alternator that was smooth, cylindrical, and painted black.....

"They" DO.

Genernator is ONE source but the $$$ is a bit UGLY (at least for a cheap guy like me)!

https://www.gener-nator.com/[/url}

 

[Fixingfarmer]

wore out that would be a link I’m interested in but it seems to not be good or they blocked it

 

[wore out]

"They" DO.

Genernator is ONE source but the $$$ is a bit UGLY (at least for a cheap guy like me)!

https://www.gener-nator.com/[/url}

https://www.gener-nator.com/

SORRY, I fumbled the link!