Starter

[John730911]

I believe these used the same starter switch as the earlier Fergies did?

If so, the shifter simply closes the contacts in the switch on top of the bellhousing, there is no solenoid to energize.

Those contacts get worn and dirty over the years. I have removed and cleaned several switches with good results.

I'll try that thanks again guy.
Can you eliminate that and just use a switch to start it instead of the shifter and how?

 

[John730911]

Yes, you have a negative ground system.

Post a picture of your solenoid, so we can see what you are looking at.

 

[Brown David]

I'll try that thanks again guy.
Can you eliminate that and just use a switch to start it instead of the shifter and how?

You're welcome.

Yes, you can eliminate it but I won't tell you how to do it.

It was designed that way for safety purposes and in my opinion it needs to be retained.

 

[Jim.ME]

You're welcome.

Yes, you can eliminate it but I won't tell you how to do it.

It was designed that way for safety purposes and in my opinion it needs to be retained.

You do not have a solenoid. That is a mechanical starter switch operated by the shifter through linkage in the transmission. Make certain the tractor is in neutral. You can test the switch by removing it from the housing and pressing its plunger (that is on it inside the transmission). It is possible the linkage, from the button, has wear enough it is not moving the plunger enough to engage the switch. I am not really up to speed on how to fix that, but I think making sure the switch is slid as far forward as the mounting holes will allow to take slack out of the linkage is one thing to check.

 

[Jim.ME]

You do not have a solenoid. That is a mechanical starter switch operated by the shifter through linkage in the transmission. Make certain the tractor is in neutral. You can test the switch by removing it from the housing and pressing its plunger (that is on it inside the transmission). It is possible the linkage, from the button, has wear enough it is not moving the plunger enough to engage the switch. I am not really up to speed on how to fix that, but I think making sure the switch is slid as far forward as the mounting holes will allow to take slack out of the linkage is one thing to check.

If you don't have a service manual to guide you through checking adjusting the switch here is a link to a site where you can download (and save) a copy of a manual. I suggest you download the Ferguson TE-20, TO-20, and TO-30 Dealer Shop Manual and review the starter switch info on page 97 before starting on the project. Not following the info could create more work for yourself, if you drop the link.

Ferguson Manuals

 

[Brown David]

You do not have a solenoid. That is a mechanical starter switch operated by the shifter through linkage in the transmission. Make certain the tractor is in neutral. You can test the switch by removing it from the housing and pressing its plunger (that is on it inside the transmission). It is possible the linkage, from the button, has wear enough it is not moving the plunger enough to engage the switch. I am not really up to speed on how to fix that, but I think making sure the switch is slid as far forward as the mounting holes will allow to take slack out of the linkage is one thing to check.

Post # 24.

You are quoting/replying to the wrong guy here.

 

[Jim.ME]

Post # 24.

You are quoting/replying to the wrong guy here.

Oops, sorry

 

[Brown David]

Oops, sorry

No problem, just like to keep things clear.

 

[Hdonly]

Some aftermarket replacement starters may need a little grinding on the nose and occasionally on the other end. I ran into this on my TO-20. Same starter. The castings are less than perfect.

 

[John730911]

Some aftermarket replacement starters may need a little grinding on the nose and occasionally on the other end. I ran into this on my TO-20. Same starter. The castings are less than perfect.

Thank you I'll have 2 back up starter's then.

 

[John730911]

Another Question Guys. I'm replacing all the wiring and it looks like the tractor has a Generator on it and voltage regulator box which regulator do I need is it 12V or 6V it's definitely switched over to 12 volts but I wasn't sure about the regulator I need. I can take pictures of needed. I'm replacing all gauges and the ignition switch too it was long over due and corroded.

 

[John730911]

Can anyone help with this Question? I wanna put a new voltage regulator looks like the one I have says 12v on the back I just wanna make sure I get everything right.
Thanks Everyone

 

[Jim.ME]

Can anyone help with this Question? I wanna put a new voltage regulator looks like the one I have says 12v on the back I just wanna make sure I get everything right.
Thanks Everyone View attachment 62691

Your picture shows it is marked 12V, indicating it is a 12-volt regulator.

 

[John730911]

Your picture shows it is marked 12V, indicating it is a 12-volt regulator.

Okie dokie Jim,
I appreciate it.Thanks.

 

[John730911]

Will this regulator work?

 

[Jim.ME]

Will this regulator work?

Is there a 7 digit Delco Remy number on a tag or stamped into your generator housing. If you can get that number it is best to match the regulator to the generator. Did you look up the Ferguson part number and see if that matches the regulator? The ads usually say what part numbers they are supposed to replace. Regulators can look alike but be different. Standard Motor Products shows two different 12-volt regulators for the TO30, they are rated for different generator amp outputs.

Not much of an answer but your pictures don't give much information. I don't feel I can say if it is the right one or if it will work or not.

 

[John730911]

Is there a 7 digit Delco Remy number on a tag or stamped into your generator housing. If you can get that number it is best to match the regulator to the generator. Did you look up the Ferguson part number and see if that matches the regulator? The ads usually say what part numbers they are supposed to replace. Regulators can look alike but be different. Standard Motor Products shows two different 12-volt regulators for the TO30, they are rated for different generator amp outputs.

Not much of an answer but your pictures don't give much information. I don't feel I can say if it is the right one or if it will work or not.

Thanks Jim
I will have to look at that tomorrow and let you know and maybe you can suggest which one I need.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks Jim
I will have to look at that tomorrow and let you know and maybe you can suggest which one I need.

I will help as best I can.

 

[Tom H.]

The negative cable for the battery is grounded to the body of the tractor and the there is a cable going from positive to solenoid switch and a cable coming off the switch to the starter. So is that Negative Ground? Also I can't get the tractor to turn over with the shifter and if I use a screw driver on the solenoid it turns over does that mean the solenoid is bad?

Hi, first it is not a solenoid, it is a starter switch mounted upside down, you see the posts on top. There is forward/backwards adjustment on the mounting plate. Loosen nuts and move the plate/switch for and aft to find the sweet spot for where the switch activates the starter. You may need another set of hands to help.

Tom

 

[olddavid]

I understand the safety concerns but if push comes to shove an external start solenoid is a viable option. Wire it so that it can't be activated with the key off and it's pretty safe if you use common sense. All cars and trucks used to be that way. Someone on another post suggested wiring the transmission start switch in series with the start solenoid coil and use that as the starting switch. Good idea but you would still have to get the contacts and/or adjustment good enough to activate the solenoid.