Sickle Bar and Plow ID

mainer76

New User
Hi everyone. I recently picked up an IH 2 point sickle bar and a 2 bottom plow. I think the plow is a 211? I'm not sure on the sickle bar though. It looks to be in good shape and I plan on using it with the Super C but would like to know the model. Got the pair for $200 which seemed pretty good. Thanks for any help!
 

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I have your sickle mower. I can't tell by seeing just the 2 pictures, but it is either an F25 or an F28. I have the F28 that is for a 300 utility. I have adapted it to run on a 53' Super C with the fast hitch. I got the manuals for both of them from Binder Books along with a parts break down and operators manual for the F28. The sickle sections and guards come from any farm supply store. The bearing for the pitman arm and pitman stick is available from Case IH, but the bearing is not cheap.
 
I am pretty sure the mower is a 25 or 27. I had a 27 just like that and put a lot of money into it, all new bearings, new guards and when I sold it on a Big Red auction it bought a how $25. Very disappointed but I got a whole of of use out of it. I sold it when I bought a 100 mower with the wobble head.
 
Re sickle bar mower, in 1958 Dad bought the 3pt version of that mower and I believe it was a model C28, so F28 probably is the model for the Fast Hitch version. I mowed many hundreds of acres with it until Dad bought a New Idea mower conditioner. I believe it is still in the back corner of my brother's machine shed.
 
Thanks for the coments! The only thing I'm missing is the rod that goes to the left rock shaft. Anyone know the length and rod size? Easy enough to make.

The plow is definitely for the larger two point. I have a 300 that would pull it but it has a 3 point.
 
See photo below of the same mower mounted on a H or M but I don't see the rod for the left rock shaft. The 3pt C28 had an L-shaped flat bar on a pivot that went under the left 3pt lower lift arm that connected by a chain to the lift arm for the cutter bar.


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See photo below of the same mower mounted on a H or M but I don't see the rod for the left rock shaft. The 3pt C28 had an L-shaped flat bar on a pivot that went under the left 3pt lower lift arm that connected by a chain to the lift arm for the cutter bar.


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The image is a c or super c (from the PTO design). The rockshaft is across the bottom with two arms sticking out with ball joints lifting the sockets. (or am I missing something I don't know? Jim
 
Mine was a 27-V mower and the owners manual had all three types of mower in it. The 2 point, which I had, the three point and the draw bar type.
 
Does anyone have a picture of how the pitman arm hooks to the blade on that ball? I can't figure out how the latch is hooked together. I just made a new arm to replace the rotted one but it fell apart before I could see how the latch hooked up!
 

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The end of the pitman arm should have a 6 to 8" hole where a spring goes. The loose piece laying on the top of the one ball socket piece should be in between the two ball socket pieces. The spring will push on the tang of that piece and you use the hole to turn the loose piece 180 degrees to lock onto the ball on the sickle with lots of spring pressure or the other way to take the spring pressure off allowing you to take the sickle out. So it looks like you made the piece of wood. My suggestion is to go to Tractor Supply and buy a new one. Plus you will need to get the spring to go into the pitman arm. If that piece you made is plain pine, I doubt it will hold up and last. The wood has to be a fairly hard wood like ash or oak. Not sure what the ones are made out of that you buy but they are not pine and are hard. I bought several for mine. Hitting a stick or rock or something that stops the sickle is what usually causes them to break. I set my clutch spring adjustment so it would slip fairly easily yet drive the sickle when mowing.
 
I think the part circled in previous picture needs to be hooked up to the chain laying on the ground. Mine had a chain from the arm (with a hole in it) to the bottom of the lift cylinder. So when the cylinder is raised, the chain pulls the arm and raises the mower bar. Not sure on this tractor/mower as it is like said before it looks like it is on C or Super C.
 
The end of the pitman arm should have a 6 to 8" hole where a spring goes. The loose piece laying on the top of the one ball socket piece should be in between the two ball socket pieces. The spring will push on the tang of that piece and you use the hole to turn the loose piece 180 degrees to lock onto the ball on the sickle with lots of spring pressure or the other way to take the spring pressure off allowing you to take the sickle out. So it looks like you made the piece of wood. My suggestion is to go to Tractor Supply and buy a new one. Plus you will need to get the spring to go into the pitman arm. If that piece you made is plain pine, I doubt it will hold up and last. The wood has to be a fairly hard wood like ash or oak. Not sure what the ones are made out of that you buy but they are not pine and are hard. I bought several for mine. Hitting a stick or rock or something that stops the sickle is what usually causes them to break. I set my clutch spring adjustment so it would slip fairly easily yet drive the sickle when mowing.
I can make a new arm from hard maple or oak. I wasn't sure what was called for. I'll have to pick up a spring and try to get that back together. Probably order a manual as well!
 
The image is a c or super c (from the PTO design). The rockshaft is across the bottom with two arms sticking out with ball joints lifting the sockets. (or am I missing something I don't know? Jim
Jim, you are very correct C or SC, I didn't notice the belt pulley attachment, focused on the mower. I am not sure how that mechanism on the pivot pin and chain worked on the Fast Hitch mowers, the tractor end must have connected to something on the rear of the tractor. Even though Dad had a 300U for about 4 years, he never had any FH equipment, instead had the FH to 3Pt adapter as he also had a JD 420U that was 3Pt, so mower rake, cultivator and plow all 3Pt.
 
After a lot of digging I'm pretty confident the exact model is a U-F28 originally designed for the 300 utility. I was able to order the manual for it so that'll be a big help. Should work fine on the Super C!
 
I can make a new arm from hard maple or oak. I wasn't sure what was called for. I'll have to pick up a spring and try to get that back together. Probably order a manual as well!
I would suggest getting the new pitman stick & using it for a pattern to make copies. The stick length & hole placement on those are rather exacting, to keep the knife in register. A knife out of register can cut hard or not at all. Then you'll be breaking more sticks, make a mess out of your field, etc.

Mike
 
I would suggest getting the new pitman stick & using it for a pattern to make copies. The stick length & hole placement on those are rather exacting, to keep the knife in register. A knife out of register can cut hard or not at all. Then you'll be breaking more sticks, make a mess out of your field, etc.

Mike
I will do that!
 

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