1020 Front spindle Snapped!

[Fixingfarmer]

Yes that knee will probably come out with some work. One thing to add is if you think you will be taking both the tie rod and the arm off the spindle do it while it’s somewhat together at least knock it loose. As in separate tie rod separate arm. Pull knee remove spindle in that order. If you hit tie rod much in any manner including with nut on it consider a new one.

One think I’ve actually wanted to try is I have a cordless bandsaw now that might slip inbetween to cut that spindle shaft under the arm but haven’t been able to try it yet. Might work if the top is welded for that also

 

[Jim.ME]

One think I’ve actually wanted to try is I have a cordless bandsaw now that might slip inbetween to cut that spindle shaft under the arm but haven’t been able to try it yet. Might work if the top is welded for that also

I think those knees are like the 2020 and 2030 which have a raised boss (related to the top seal washer) the arm sets over. Using a bandsaw under the arm would cut that boss off the knee in the process of cutting the spindle off, unless the thrust bearing is shot and the spindle itself is visible in the gap.

 

[d page]

I had forgot about the weld, I had to go back to the beginning of the thread to see the weld picture, I see now the latest second picture of the steering arm is not of your tractor's arm, it is just a steering arm.

To free the tie rod end I would set up a jack (or solid blocking), under the arm, as close to the tie rod end as possible to prevent movement and take arm deflection away. Run a nut (use a regular nut if yours has a stop or castle nut) down close, or flush, with the end of the ball stud treads, it only needs a tiny gap between the nut and arm. Strike a few hammer blows horizontal on the end of the arm while prying down on the tie rod (always close to the socket), sometimes that is all it takes. If that doesn't work, I would try striking straight down on the nut while prying down on the tie rod, after making sure the arm was still blocked solidly. If you have an oxy/act torch, wrap the joint boot in a wet rag and put some quick heat to the top of the arm at the thinnest area around the stud.

There are a number of other methods, the "pickle" fork is one (those can destroy the rubber boot). A bearing separator and puller can make a press to push on the stud. More suggestions will likely be coming.

I would cut/grind the weld away and try to save the arm on the chance it is salvageable, you know the spindle is junk so it won't hurt if you gouge into it. True the arm may be the problem, but it could be the key or the spindle.

I have been lucky in that the ones I've replaced had loaders with down pressure and were able to lift the front high enough to change the spindles. We got them up with the bucket and blocking, then put a big jackstand or blocking under the axle on the broken side. In your case it may be easier for you to block the tractor up and pull the knee off.

the steering arm pic i posted (just below the video link) today IS of my tractor. I ground the weld off, that's why you thought that it was from another tractor, i think.
And the steering arm came right off when attached to the outer tie rod.

The kingpin/knuckle will slide out, at least a few inches but now i must lift the tractor at least 12 inches to be able to pull the knuckle out the bottom. That is why i was wondering if removing the knee assembly would be easier than trying to lift the entire front end.
Just block the front axle assembly with no load on the Knee assembly then unbolt and remove the knee assembly/knuckle and work on it at a much more convenient location on a table? Another has commented on this, but haven't studied yet.

Your thoughts?

 

[Jim.ME]

the steering arm pic i posted (just below the video link) today IS of my tractor. I ground the weld off, that's why you thought that it was from another tractor, i think.
And the steering arm came right off when attached to the outer tie rod.

The kingpin/knuckle will slide out, at least a few inches but now i must lift the tractor at least 12 inches to be able to pull the knuckle out the bottom. That is why i was wondering if removing the knee assembly would be easier than trying to lift the entire front end.
Just block the front axle assembly with no load on the Knee assembly then unbolt and remove the knee assembly/knuckle and work on it at a much more convenient location on a table? Another has commented on this, but haven't studied yet.

Your thoughts?

Did you figure out why it was welded?

I haven't had to pull a knee to change a spindle, so far. A few minutes blocking it up a bit higher is easier to me than removing and installing a knee.

Do you have double acting cylinders? If so will your loader lift the front of the tractor off the ground using down pressure? If so, use the bucket and block under the axle when it is up.

Will you floor jack, jacking under the broken spindle give you the height you need? If so, jack it with that and block the axle.

You can use your forklift with a good chain and only lift the axle on the broken side, leave the other front tire on the ground. Put the bucket on blocks about a foot off the ground and leave it in float before lifting. The front axle will pivot, and you can block the axle on the broken side up or block the forklift from dropping if you leave it on the forklift.

If you pick the broken side up, so the axle pivots in the front support, you can put hardwood blocking and a wedge, between the front support and the axle, on the other side as an additional safety when you get it up.

This all sounds like a lot and time consuming, but once you have done it you will be quicker if it ever happens to you again.

 

[d page]

Did you figure out why it was welded?

I haven't had to pull a knee to change a spindle, so far. A few minutes blocking it up a bit higher is easier to me than removing and installing a knee.

Do you have double acting cylinders? If so will your loader lift the front of the tractor off the ground using down pressure? If so, use the bucket and block under the axle when it is up.

Will you floor jack, jacking under the broken spindle give you the height you need? If so, jack it with that and block the axle.

You can use your forklift with a good chain and only lift the axle on the broken side, leave the other front tire on the ground. Put the bucket on blocks about a foot off the ground and leave it in float before lifting. The front axle will pivot, and you can block the axle on the broken side up or block the forklift from dropping if you leave it on the forklift.

If you pick the broken side up, so the axle pivots in the front support, you can put hardwood blocking and a wedge, between the front support and the axle, on the other side as an additional safety when you get it up.

This all sounds like a lot and time consuming, but once you have done it you will be quicker if it ever happens to you again.

Jim,
Great advice! That's one of the wonderful advantages of having access to guys have been there and done THAT.
Very good to know that taking the knee off is not a good idea as there are much easier ways to do.
Will explore the options you have provided other than the knee removal.
THANKS!
Dennis

 

[jd2cylman]

We had a 1970 2020 with a 48 loader. We snapped a spindle once every couple of years. Heavy duty loader work and something is bound to happen. We always broke it when the 60" manure fork bucket was installed. We eventually traded for a 2155. Don't recall ever breaking a spindle on that one. Should have gotten it with fwd and a reverser, but being a true farmer, dad was still frugal. Later we started doing the barn cleaning with a skidsteer, and loader problems went away...

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I think those knees are like the 2020 and 2030 which have a raised boss (related to the top seal washer) the arm sets over. Using a bandsaw under the arm would cut that boss off the knee in the process of cutting the spindle off, unless the thrust bearing is shot and the spindle itself is visible in the gap.

Usually there’s some up and down wiggle to that piece that there’s enough gap I know I’ve cut those with a hack saw it’s just a bit slow going then taken the top part to the press and gotten the stub of that spindle shaft out of the top arm. Makes it slightly shorter to lift too if that’s the direction of disassembly chosen. You are right best be careful though the bandsaw might be more wishful thinking