1929 Farmall regular, cylinder pitted from being stuck , can I get by with just honing the cylinder clean or do I need to replace the sleeve?

Grandpa love has probably measured a ring gap or 2 in his time. If he can’t get all the sleeves snag the one he can find on the Fordson site for the worst pitted one and then you have to treat it like a parent bore on the other 3 and hone away if you can’t find them. While the sleeves out have a machinist measure it and see if it matches anything he can supply. If you don’t now it would be good to know in the future and might help someone else they seem scarce. It’s usually free to get their opinion and a look at it around here especially bringing in a sleeve itself like that.
 
i wish i had the money, but i sure do know when the job is done correctly or ham hashed together, and i do know right from wrong . and i do know when something will work and when its a waste of money. and of course you will make it run like that ,... but read the outcomes already posted . and another reason when some one tells me they just overhauled their engine. that really gets me nervous knowing it can be lipstick on a pig. all my work is also guaranteed. just a few days ago it was said its silly season time on yt now, and it showed up here too. i also do know i would not run that pitted cylinder with pits as deep as a spark plug gap. and the ones saying u can hone them pits out, i also know that they have not honed a cylinder nor how to use one. and if you did happen to hone them pits out you would have no compression on that cylinder, it would be so oversized. this poor guy asked for a good honest professional opinion on his tractor which don't look like a basket case and you guys telling him to reuse that sleeve,...🤷‍♂️ that is just so wrong. maybe the moderator should take points away for goofy answers. in this case its very easy to see them deep pits that i dont think most can even visualize in the photo, just look up above the shiny part , the rust has eaten the metal right out of the sleeve. i also have mega experience working on stuck engines. i bet if you had this customer in a shop and told him to reuse that sleeve , he would look at you likeo_O then pull his tractor out.
You may not have the money but you sure don't have any problem telling other people how to spend theirs.

I'm betting if you told the customer to reuse that sleeve, he'd kiss your feet. Tell him it's going to be $2000 in machine work, plus parts, for an old puttering-around tractor, THAT is when he'd pull his tractor out.

If he reuses the sleeve, what's he out? If it smokes and runs poorly and he just can't stand it, those bolts turn both ways. That engine is designed to be torn down quickly, in the field. It's no big deal to pull it apart again and replace the sleeve.
 
where? what did you win?
I won some good old fashioned common sense. You spend your money as you want. I spend mine as i want. For a putzing around tractor i would hone, ring and run. Depending on how i felt i might even RE USE the head gasket!!!
 
Does any one have the specs for the puck size to remove the damaged sleeve 1929 Farmall regular?
make the outside diameter .010 smaller on the puck so it slides up easily without catching. inside measurement just so the puck slides in nicely with a step. i built this one for my 282 engines. i have a set of w-30 sleeves her i can check on. pretty sure they are the same sleeve as yours.
 

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What’s the engine # for a 1929 Farmall regular ?
 

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What’s the engine # for a 1929 Farmall regular ?
your tractor has a 220 cid engine, 3.75 bore with a 5 " stroke. i just realized thats a smaller bore than the w-30's u could also weld 2 or 3 beads vertically from top to bottom if you are a good welder. then the sleeve will pull out easily. that was you have your O D measure ment for next time. i have even made a puck just out of a piece of 1/2 flat iron with a cutting torch and grinding the od to fit. you should also be able to get your measurement once the pan is off and measure that sleave.
 
Thanks for being honest about the pitting.
I’m going to replace the piston and sleeve.
Rustred is on target. For all reasons he took the time to explain. The engine is far enough apart that the additional labor is nill. The knowledge that the repair is value added instead of taping up a broken axe handle. Jim
 
your tractor has a 220 cid engine, 3.75 bore with a 5 " stroke. i just realized thats a smaller bore than the w-30's u could also weld 2 or 3 beads vertically from top to bottom if you are a good welder. then the sleeve will pull out easily. that was you have your O D measure ment for next time. i have even made a puck just out of a piece of 1/2 flat iron with a cutting torch and grinding the od to fit. you should also be able to get your measurement once the pan is off and measure that sleave.
Okay thanks
 
You think I should try putting together and run it , did your cylinders have pitting after you were done honing ?View attachment 65500
The pits are still going to be there… no one is suggesting honing until they are gone. You may end up pitching the sleeve anyway, but it must be honed first in order to make the most accurate assessment.
Unless that pitting is an unbroken ring for the circumference of the sleeve, the ring will ride over the low area without catching on the pits. Just like in Grampa Love’s video, and every two cycle engine ever built.
As far as burning oil is concerned, your splash-lubed engine will not throw as much oil up onto the cylinder wall as a pressure lubricated connecting rod will… therefore less oil for the oil control ring to scrape off.
 
You should home it first then see what you have. I was given a MF industrial with a 3 cylinder perkins diesel. I had to beat one piston out because water had sat in it for a ling time. I honed it out a lot. It still had some pits. I put a set of rings in it. I used it as my mowing tractor for 5 years or more. It ran fine, and didn't smoke. It still runs. I use it to drag dirt around now, when needed. Stan
 
just removed the valves from the cylinder head, noticed no valve seals and both exhaust/ intake valves look the same.
 
your tractor has a 220 cid engine, 3.75 bore with a 5 " stroke. i just realized thats a smaller bore than the w-30's u could also weld 2 or 3 beads vertically from top to bottom if you are a good welder. then the sleeve will pull out easily. that was you have your O D measure ment for next time. i have even made a puck just out of a piece of 1/2 flat iron with a cutting torch and grinding the od to fit. you should also be able to get your measurement once the pan is off and measure that sleave.
Dry sleeve ? Toss the sleeves Just bore and hone the block then install an over size , higher compression piston .
 
just removed the valves from the cylinder head, noticed no valve seals and both exhaust/ intake valves look the same.
Though IH engines need Perfect Circle style seals, they were not supplied. there were no EPA rules far emissions, and oil consumption was considered normal. PC seals meter oil into valve stems rather than just being open to intake suction. I use PC seals on all rebuilds I do, including small engines. They reduce oil consumption, stop valve stem "coking" and adequately lube the stems. Some engines require machining of guide bosses to accommodate the seals, some have guides tall enough to attach the seals. seals are purchased by stem diameter, and guide OD to assure a fit. Others will say the seals are not needed. In my opinion they are best practices. Jim
 
Though IH engines need Perfect Circle style seals, they were not supplied. there were no EPA rules far emissions, and oil consumption was considered normal. PC seals meter oil into valve stems rather than just being open to intake suction. I use PC seals on all rebuilds I do, including small engines. They reduce oil consumption, stop valve stem "coking" and adequately lube the stems. Some engines require machining of guide bosses to accommodate the seals, some have guides tall enough to attach the seals. seals are purchased by stem diameter, and guide OD to assure a fit. Others will say the seals are not needed. In my opinion they are best practices. Jim
The interesting component to the rust pit issue is that the ring ov pits is continuous for 20 degrees around the circumference of the sleeve, and wide enough to allow potential ring entry into the "effective" groove. In 2 stroke engines with ports in cylinders there are bridges in the middle of big ports to eliminate that. You have made a good decision to replace that cylinder/piston. Jim
 

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