1948 n8 front mounted distributor?

Asheron

New User
Location
Perth NY 12019
Hi all I've been looking at points kits. My question is what are the flat pieces of copper with an elongated hole and a regular hole? My old points had a broken strip that looked like it connected between the points and the condenser it was to damaged to tell. Thank you Advance.
 
Since it was originally "riveted" in place, I don't think you will be finding it as a separate part. Use the copper strap off of old points to make one and just use the screws to attach it. Be sure to not let it touch any grounded metal parts.
 
8N12209 "conductor" strip for the later side mount distributors might work in your front mount.
 
Hi all I've been looking at points kits. My question is what are the flat pieces of copper with an elongated hole and a regular hole? My old points had a broken strip that looked like it connected between the points and the condenser it was to damaged to tell. Thank you Advance.
Thanks guys OTR Driver I don't get home enough so while I'm here I'm trying to get my pride and joy running again. I have little experience with these old tractors she never gave me a problem. But the battery was running low so I bought a new one. Haven't had it running since. I know I got the points right. The coil is reading good on the meter. I was reading about positive ground! Could I have reversed the cables? The branded ground is always neg I thought. Any help on that would be great to. Sorry about taking up your time with questions like this I have rebuilt cars. Feel like a noob
 
If you reversed the polarity it should still run. The braided cable goes to ground. Originally that was the positive post on the battery. Do you have spark? That is the question you need to answer.
 
If you reversed the polarity it should still run. The braided cable goes to ground. Originally that was the positive post on the battery. Do you have spark? That is the question you need to answer.
I dont know I have a coil coming in tomorrow. But before I bought the points I pulled a plug and grounded it to the frame and the spark was weak like a sparkler before it goes out. So got points went I tested the coil the readings were all over the place I got 1.5 twice for 3 seconds so called it good. My cheap multimeter but now I think it's better to just replace it.
 
I dont know I have a coil coming in tomorrow. But before I bought the points I pulled a plug and grounded it to the frame and the spark was weak like a sparkler before it goes out. So got points went I tested the coil the readings were all over the place I got 1.5 twice for 3 seconds so called it good. My cheap multimeter but now I think it's better to just replace it.
Testing the coil is not the same as checking for spark.
 
Hi Asheron, welcome to the forum. You never said and no one else mentioned this, but removing the front mount distributor to work on it is much easier than working on it while still on the tractor. It only goes back on one way without forcing it.
 
Hi Asheron, welcome to the forum. You never said and no one else mentioned this, but removing the front mount distributor to work on it is much easier than working on it while still on the tractor. It only goes back on one way without forcing it.
Very good info right there. My 1948 8N had a camshaft that was damaged by the previous owner bolting the distributor in 180 degrees off. I had to take it out during a engine rebuild and weld it up and cut/file new groves. You CAN put it on 180 degrees off if you aren't careful and the cam slot is a little worn.

I find if you leave the rotor cover off during reinstallation, you can apply light pressure to the distributor while rotating the rotor with the other hand and it pops right into place easily when it gets to the correct position. Then finger tighten the two bolts to hold it in place. Safe and easy way to not put it on 180 degrees off.
 
Hi all I've been looking at points kits. My question is what are the flat pieces of copper with an elongated hole and a regular hole? My old points had a broken strip that looked like it connected between the points and the condenser it was to damaged to tell. Thank you Advance.
Well I got her to start up and runs good but seems to be either choking or in need of fuel. I started from scratch with the carbs three idol adjustments and I got it better but I have no rpm gauge or way to know if it is at the top. It idols really low perfectly. And full fuel run good. But something feels off
 
Well I got her to start up and runs good but seems to be either choking or in need of fuel. I started from scratch with the carbs three idol adjustments and I got it better but I have no rpm gauge or way to know if it is at the top. It idols really low perfectly. And full fuel run good. But something feels off
"But something feels off".
Well, that really nails it down real tight! Someone ought to be able to offer an immediate solution!
 
"But something feels off".
Well, that really nails it down real tight! Someone ought to be able to offer an immediate solution!
It's rough running not smooth. When I put it in first as I let the clutch out it begins to stall. 2 and 3 no problem it idols smooth but when I go straight to high throttle it's rough for a few seconds. It's starts every time wants to go. And I looked at the throttle rod and it's bent and the middle of the throttle is my low if I go down any further it dies
 

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