1949 8N wont start, has electronic ignition, new plugs, very white bright spark

The FORD Front Mount Distributor is the #1 most misunderstood feature on these old FORDs. A tune-up is done with unit on your bench and timing is set per manuals, no timing light is used. Setting points correctly can be a task today because some brands are junk and can't be set/gapped right. Points gapped at .015". Best to use STANDARD IGNTION/BLUE STREAK p/n FD-6769X. NAPA stocks them. Alternate brands are TISCO ATK-6FF, and CNH 87744524. Set timing then test circuit before mounting on engine. That is the tricky part. Mounting. Done one correct way and if wrong, will destroy the base. Many do not know this and end up frustrated when they can't get tractor to run. They then assume they need to go to 12V or and EI setup. Nothing wrong with either one but realize EI only eliminates the need for points. You can fry the system if one wrong move is made. The entire wiring needs to be verified correct as well. Front Mount uses the BALLAST RESISTOR, no questions. Firing Order is 1,2,4,3 CCW as shown. Crossing up Plug # 3 nd Plug #4 wires is a common mistake. I had my own repair shop and got many guys with their non-running front mounts that they had done an EI on and cringed each time I had to work on them. I never had a need nor a desire to go to EI. As far as I know the PERTRONIX EI kit is the most reliable. You have to follow the intstructions to a TEE. EI works best on 12V.

Tim Daley (MI)

Good post.

They are very easy to do if one takes their time and researches the process.

I've done many exactly as you described.
 
You need a spark tester like this one that has an adjustable spark gap on it. You want to see a strong spark able to jump a 1/4" gap.

etNZ3PN.jpg
 
So if it runs on ether it’s fuel. It is thirsty give it a drink. Carb problem. If it’s flowing great to it out the bottom time to open it up and see what’s going on. Intake boot wet?
 

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