3020 D starting issue

[SHALER]

I have a 64 3020D synchro with a 12V conversion done around a dozen years ago. as the temps have dropped, so has the speed of the starter. So much so that now I pretty much always have to jump start the tractor. When this issue surfaced my 1st reaction was to replace the 4 year old 3ET batteries in it with new ones (couple weeks ago). I also thought perhaps it needed a new starter/solenoid, but the fact that you can jump start it presumably eliminates the starter as an issue, would that be correct? Nevertheless, I am stumped at the moment. This past week I kept a battery maintainer on it but that does not seem to have made much difference. Since I jut replaced the batteries the cable ends and terminals are good and clean with no corrosion etc.

 

[2520-4010]

Probably not the answer, but you might also clean up the cables ground and make sure the cable is clean at the starter.

hths

 

[Jim.ME]

Replacing the batteries generally only involves the battery terminal ends of cables. Where are the battery cable grounds connected and have you cleaned those?

Adding a boost to the existing batteries can increase amps available to the starter, which could help a weak starter. Where are you connecting your booster cables?

Feel connections for heat, including the strap/cable connections between the solenoid and starter motor. Heat indicates resistance.

Some simple checks to start with, do some voltage drop tests.

Voltage across each battery at rest.

Voltage at the solenoid at rest.

Voltage across each battery when cranking.

Voltage at the solenoid when cranking.

Post back with the voltages you get for these tests.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

May need more than a maintainer to bring batteries up to full charge. Put a charger on it for several hours or overnight.

 

[Tx Jim]

When attempting to start engine do you de-stroke frt hyd pump or rapidly move steering wheel from side to side which helps cause hyd shaft to be easier to rotate?

 

[NoDakInMN]

(quoted from post at 08:48:33 12/27/23)
Replacing the batteries generally only involves the battery terminal ends of cables. Where are the battery cable grounds connected and have you cleaned those?

Adding a boost to the existing batteries can increase amps available to the starter, which could help a weak starter. Where are you connecting your booster cables?

Feel connections for heat, including the strap/cable connections between the solenoid and starter motor. Heat indicates resistance.

Some simple checks to start with, do some voltage drop tests.

Voltage across each battery at rest.

Voltage at the solenoid at rest.

Voltage across each battery when cranking.

Voltage at the solenoid when cranking.

Post back with the voltages you get for these tests.

One other voltage test you will want to perform is with one lead of the voltmeter on the power terminal on the solenoid and the other on the frame of the starter, then repeat it with the one lead on the tractor frame other than the starter frame. If it registers low voltage on the first test but fine on the second one, you are losing continuity where the starter bolts to the engine, if so, remove and clean the starter and where it bolts up.

 

[SHALER]

Thought I would take a moment and follow up on this one.....so not long after my initial post it became difficult to start the 3020 even by jumping it. It would just not spin over much at all. I am not very good with electricity and multimeters etc. but I just had a feeling the 12 year old starter may be on its last legs. I ordered an Iskra 4.2kW one, about $250. Turns out my hunch was right for once and the problem was the starter. The Iskra must have weighed 20% more than the Unipoint starter that went bad. The unipoint felt lightweight and cheap (I did not put the Unipoint on originally, local tractor mechanic did when he converted it to 12V). I expect I will get more than 12 years out of the Iskra starter.

 

[Tx Jim]

I've read good reviews concerning Iskra starters. Thank you for posting your repair results.