6420 no hydraulic power to (3)rear 300 series SCV'S

Thanks for the backflow explanation. I wouldn't have expected the LS would go back thru a function that wasn't activated.
Yep, I understand the stud business. The problem is the bottom stud is so long that it hits the 3 point arm when pulling it out. The other two are easy.
I took things apart again. The flat valve next to SCV #2 was gone. When I disassemble and assemble things I always have a large cloth covering the whole area and when done I run a strong roll around magnet 'nut, screw picker upper' around in case I missed anything. I also put vasoline on it to hold it in place when installing. So I don't know where it could have gone.

When I wiped the area where the valve was supposed to be the oil had a 'blackish' color to it like it had some metal particles in it. You don't suppose the valve came apart?

Anyway I put a new flat shuttle valve that I had in and put things back together.
End result- no change-. Next thing is I'll do is pick up 3 short bolts to replace the studs remove #1 & #2 SCV and put only the end plate in.

I can't really check the LS pressure because I have a 300 series SCV in position #3 which requires a 'tap' to be inserted in the line off the R end plate. I don't have the JD parts to do that.
DAMN!

I wonder where the missing disc ended up? Did you ever verify that the Inlet Priority valve is not stuck?
 
DAMN!

I wonder where the missing disc ended up? Did you ever verify that the Inlet Priority valve is not stuck?
I can't figure out the lost disc but I'm going to get a bright light and keep looking, cause it bugs me.

I'm going to keep it simple for now and stay with the basics. Undo what was done to see if SCV #2 is the problem.
Should have started there but I had such a problem removing it to start with I didn't want to take a chance and mess up the threaded studs. But after doing it three times I've worked out a better way to remove the SCV'S. Now I just need to find someplace within 50 miles that has 10mm x 1.0 bolts. Not a lot of options for parts when you live out in the country.
 
DAMN!

Did you ever verify that the Inlet Priority valve is not stuck?
Still don't know were the priority valve is. I posted this Pic before. Is this it?? (circled)
 

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Yes.

See Post #32 of this thread.
I read that but I didn't know for sure if that is the plug to unscrew. I don't want to mess with anything by mistake so I took a picture of the area.

Todays unsuccessful work. Again slid the SCV'S apart. Two flat valves fell out from (what appeared to be)between #1 & #2 ? So I found the missing valve. Put the one valve back in and put things back together. I won't be able to remove a SCV for a while. It seems the 10mm 1.0 bolts are rare things so I'll need to make something that will work.
 
Yes.

See Post #32 of this thread.
I've removed the SCV #2 that I replaced the pin in. I removed it and reinstalled #1 w/o #2.
I have thereby eliminated SCV #2 as a factor. Still no rear hydraulics.

Correct me if I'm wrong, as I understand things the priority valve directs the LS hydraulics to the rock shaft and the SCV'S?? Is so I will check the valve ??? Until I get all the parts I don't know what the LS pressure is.

In reading the "repair manual" it shows how to remove the priority valve (attached) Is this the best way ???
Reason I ask is the "repair manual" said 'in order to remove the SCV'S the rock shaft arm must be removed'. This was incorrect and creates a LOT of extra work in doing so.
 

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I read that but I didn't know for sure if that is the plug to unscrew. I don't want to mess with anything by mistake so I took a picture of the area.

Todays unsuccessful work. Again slid the SCV'S apart. Two flat valves fell out from (what appeared to be)between #1 & #2 ? So I found the missing valve. Put the one valve back in and put things back together. I won't be able to remove a SCV for a while. It seems the 10mm 1.0 bolts are rare things so I'll need to make something that will work.
Advance auto parts will have the bolts. Others may have.
 
Advance auto parts will have the bolts. Others may have.
Thanks.
I couldn't find any of the particular 1.0 thread taper anywhere.

I wound up cutting up a piece of scrap flat steel and drilling holes in it for the threaded studs.
After removing SCV #2 I wedged a piece of 2 x 4 (the gap was 1 1/2") between the flat steel and the R-end plate. After I tightened it down everything sealed off good. Didn't fix the problem but eliminated the SCV #2 concern.
 

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