I recently ordered an engine kit + bearings for my 8N. The front and rear main bearings are .030 but there are no marking on the center thrust bearing. Is this common? Could it be standard? I've been building engines (mostly race cars and Case tractors) but have never seen an oversize bearing that wasn't marked. I have no way to drop the crank to mike it without reassembling the tractor so I can move it into my shop/hoist.
Thanks
 
I recently ordered an engine kit + bearings for my 8N. The front and rear main bearings are .030 but there are no marking on the center thrust bearing. Is this common? Could it be standard? I've been building engines (mostly race cars and Case tractors) but have never seen an oversize bearing that wasn't marked. I have no way to drop the crank to mike it without reassembling the tractor so I can move it into my shop/hoist.
Thanks
Start by "micing" the thickness of bearing shells, the proper way is with a "ball mic", but any ordinary mic used at the edge of the bearing where the halves meet up will do here. On the odd chance the one bearing is "standard" it's shell will be 0.015" THINNER than the 0.030" UNDERSIZED bearing.

Yes, UNDERSIZED.

Bearings for a reground crank are UNDERSIZED and pistons for a rebored block are OVERSIZED.

For SOME reason, this site lists many crankshaft bearings for reground cranks as OVERSIZED, while most of the rest of the mechanical world AND major manufacturers list them as UNDERSIZED.

(Rant over!)
 
I recently ordered an engine kit + bearings for my 8N. The front and rear main bearings are .030 but there are no marking on the center thrust bearing. Is this common? Could it be standard? I've been building engines (mostly race cars and Case tractors) but have never seen an oversize bearing that wasn't marked. I have no way to drop the crank to mike it without reassembling the tractor so I can move it into my shop/hoist.
Thanks
You should never buy parts without knowing what exactly you need to begin with. Until you have the motor history, you don't really know what all has been done to engine in prior life. Engine rebuilds can be done by you or a qualified shop. Unless you have the experience, the right tools and equipment needed, and know the procedures, best to let a good shop do the grunt work. You can strip down the block yourself then take it and the head had to a good shop. They will first boil them then inspect for any cracks or defects. They will advise and even order the correct kit for your rebuild. they'll do the entire job for a reasonable fee as well.

Tim Daley (MI)
 
You should never buy parts without knowing what exactly you need to begin with. Until you have the motor history, you don't really know what all has been done to engine in prior life. Engine rebuilds can be done by you or a qualified shop. Unless you have the experience, the right tools and equipment needed, and know the procedures, best to let a good shop do the grunt work. You can strip down the block yourself then take it and the head had to a good shop. They will first boil them then inspect for any cracks or defects. They will advise and even order the correct kit for your rebuild. they'll do the entire job for a reasonable fee as well.

Tim Daley (MI)
The engine is apart but not removed from the transmission. I only removed the thrust bearing so the crank would be supported on both ends. I assumed an unmarked bearing would be standard, and ordered standard bearings. My question was did Ford or aftermarket suppliers make central thrust bearings without markings. As I stated, I've never heard of that. As suggested by an earlier post, I did mike old thrust bearing and it is .030 also.
I have been restoring antique cars and airplanes, and building hot rods and race car engines for over 60 years, and have a well equipped shop. I certainly know the procedure.
As an aside, serial numbers indicate this is a 2n tractor with a 8N engine. I bought it cheap because an idiot had run it without the air cleaner - instant death in dusty, sandy Arizona. It is in decent shape otherwise, except for the rear tires. If anybody close has a set of rear tires within driving distance, I would be interested.
Thanks
Jeff
 

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