9n all new wiring assistance

bshipley78

Member
I am new to the 9n world. Purchased a 1942 9n, converted to 12v prior to me.
I am getting ready to install the Pertronix Electronic ignition (1247XT) and looking to also renew all of the wiring in the process. I have found wiring info but just have a couple of questions for anyone willing to help out.
1. Pertronix says that I do not need a inline resistor, that the system needs the full 12v. Does this mean that I should also get rid of the Resistor block that looks like a wood square with a coiled wire and 3 screws (which my tractor does not have)? I understand to remove the two tab resistor.
2. the alternator that I have has the obvious power post and also has a two prong plug with one of the wires looped to the post on the alternator and the other goes somewhere I don't recall and I am currently at work.

Do I need to continue to use the alternator 2 prong plug or am i fine just attaching to the post?
 
welcome to YT :)

1. pertronix says yes, take both resistors out and leave them out.

2. lol, i have no idea where your alternator wires are going. if they used to work to charge the tractor, then leave them alone ;)
 
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so if I remove the resistor block, do I just use something to tie all those wires together? I really want to give this tractor the cleanest wire setup I can...not sure that this thing is wired correctly when I got it.
 
there are two wires that attach to screws at the end of the "spring."

disconnect either wire and attach it to the screw the other wire attaches to, so they're both on the same screw. you're done.
 
Or get wild and crazy and run a new wire eliminating all of the unnecessary hardware. The alternator is wired as it should be, a 3 wire alternator. The mystery wire should be wired to the ignition switch and have a diode or an indicator light in the circuit. Keep all of the wires.
 
Yes it does have a diode and I have traced it going from the alternator to the positive on the ammeter. Guessing I'll need a new diode for me rewire.
 
Mine is wired to energize the "turn on" portion of the voltage regulator when the key switch is on. Immediately charges at all RPM's. No diode needed. I use the "AUX" terminal to ensure no backfeed or discharge of the battery when the switch is off. I also use a regular automotive-style key switch, but still have to push the start button on the transmission; the "Start" position on the switch is not connected to anything. zuhnc
 
Okay so help me out with this wiring it's confusing me now I have a single wire alternator going to the positive side of the ameeter on the negative side of the ameeter I have a small lead that goes to the power SharePoint on the resistor block from the resistor block I have a hot wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch one wire is going to the coil and the other wire going to the resistor block power SharePoint
 

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Okay so help me out with this wiring it's confusing me now I have a single wire alternator going to the positive side of the ameeter on the negative side of the ameeter I have a small lead that goes to the power SharePoint on the resistor block from the resistor block I have a hot wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch one wire is going to the coil and the other wire going to the resistor block power SharePoint
Is there a "hidden" question in there somewhere?
Normally only the battery is connected to neg side of ammeter and alternator and all loads to pos side
 
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Is there a "hidden" question in there somewhere?
Normally only the battery is connected to neg side of ammeter and alternator and all loads to pos side
so then does the jumper wire I have currently connected to the negative on the ammeter need to be attached to the battery positive?
So alternator, solenoid and ignition switch wires to the positive on the ammeter and battery positive to the negative on the ammeter?
 
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