absolutely frustrated

[wildman1165]

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

 

[JMOR]

Remove round side cover(s) and separate the forks so as to disconnect from control valve.

 

[mhb@ufe]

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

If you've already tried removing the cover without removing the arms from the control valve you may have already damaged the control valve.

Mark

 

[Hobo,NC]

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

Its kissing cuzz'n is a TO20, try TO20 Ferguson tractor in your search.

 

[Caryc]

Do as JMOR suggested. Remove the two round inspection covers. What you'll see inside is this double yoke. The bottom two arms are connected to your control valve. You need to spread those two arms to disconnect them and you can then carefully lift off the top cover. Be careful when lifting off that cover, you don't want to bang it around and bend that double yoke. Best to have a helper lift it off. If you are going to keep this tractor, I suggest you buy the operators manual, the parts manual and the service manual.

 

[wildman1165]

well i got it off.... my biggest problem was my lift arm were frozen in the up position...... i didnt mess up the yoke is fine just rusty

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

Frustration will get you nowhere. First, do you have copies of the ESSENTIAL MANUALS? Get them and read B4 you do anything else. Don't know where you are looking but there are many videos out there on N-Tractor Hydraulics and not all are correct. The best 9N video is from J&D Productions and sold everywhere. Try STEINERS. The 9N/2N Tractor had Draft Control only and the hydraulic system is different than the later 8N and up ones. The 8N added Position Control and you select mode via a lever on RH side by the seat. The 9N/2N system uses a "Wishbone Bracket" to activate linkage with. Located underneath attached to the cylinder. YOU MUST RELEASE THE BRACKET FIRST before you pull the top cover off. Side inspection covers are your friend as JMOR points out. You also DO NOT REMOVE the FOUR BOLTS that secure the cylinder on with from underneath.These bolts are underneath the seat with 7/16 studs attached. Plan on investing in a new piston, new cylinder, and new safety relief valve for starters. DO NOT reuse old piston or cylinder. The original style piston had a 3-Steel Ring setup for a wiper and seal. These were not good and wore easily, grooving cylinder walls. When the NAA Tractor came out it had a new system and the piston was changed to have groove on the OD with a rubber O-RING for the seal. It also used leather ring as the wiper and backup washer. These new style parts will also fit on the older 9N, 2N, and 8N. Use them. You need a new cylinder as well so do not try to reuse old one - it will be more trouble. Based on condition of current hydraulic pump, you may also be due for a system rebuild. Cleaning/revamping chambers advised at least. Drain oil first. There are three drain plugs for the system. First one to remove is the rear diffy case with an NPT plug that will have a square shoulder on it. Next drain plug is the pump sump and the next plug going forward is the transmission case. The lattre two will have cork gaskets so get new ones. These should be included in the gasket kit when you get a new cylinder. Start here and report back on progress.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Do as JMOR suggested. Remove the two round inspection covers. What you'll see inside is this double yoke. The bottom two arms are connected to your control valve. You need to spread those two arms to disconnect them and you can then carefully lift off the top cover. Be careful when lifting off that cover, you don't want to bang it around and bend that double yoke. Best to have a helper lift it off. If you are going to keep this tractor, I suggest you buy the operators manual, the parts manual and the service manual.

HERE YA GO

tpd

 

[wildman1165]

the cylinder is free and smooth but the lift arms themselves are frozen... been working on getting them moving freely with heat /pb blaster and oil.... its how i got the brakes unfrozen....... also the bottom of the yoke was not connected to anything and as you mentioned it's connection is under the pump. i am going to pull the pump next since there is so much crud and rust crumb everywhere... it needs a major clean up. i have manuals here but didnt know about the video you posted. i will be checking it out. i need to reference manuals more than i do.... things seem simple on this tractor but there are some things ????? rrrrr

 

[John Deere D]

i am working on my first ford 9N hydraulic system and am trying to pull the top cover off. i can't find one single video of a 9n being worked on its all 8n's. mine is not coming off as is shown in 8n videos. 8n's have one actuating arm but my 9n has two arms. how do i get this thing off ???/ hope you all know of a good video somewhere that can help. i really hope i dont have to split the case.

Pics of my 9N..

 

[Caryc]

When I removed the top cover on my 8N, I didn't have anything to use a chain hoist on. So, what I did was to remove the butt bucket and leave the big spring on. You see the picture of it. I forgot to take the pic when I had the seat off so you see it still on in the after pic. With that seat off I used a big "C" clamp to clamp a hunk of 2 X 4 to use as a handle which worked great. After I got the cover off, I was able to turn it over and clamp it to a corner of a table using that "C" clamp which made it easy to work on.

 

[Dave G9N]

When you go to put it back together, the forks need to be spread and can be just as difficult to put together as they were to take apart. A 3 5/8 inch stick is about the right size to wedge them open enough to do either job more easily. Something like a piece of a paint stirrer, thick enough to be stiff, but not too thick and wide enough so you don't have to find the exact spot.

 

[Jim in LA]

Frustration will get you nowhere. First, do you have copies of the ESSENTIAL MANUALS? Get them and read B4 you do anything else. Don't know where you are looking but there are many videos out there on N-Tractor Hydraulics and not all are correct. The best 9N video is from J&D Productions and sold everywhere. Try STEINERS. The 9N/2N Tractor had Draft Control only and the hydraulic system is different than the later 8N and up ones. The 8N added Position Control and you select mode via a lever on RH side by the seat. The 9N/2N system uses a "Wishbone Bracket" to activate linkage with. Located underneath attached to the cylinder. YOU MUST RELEASE THE BRACKET FIRST before you pull the top cover off. Side inspection covers are your friend as JMOR points out. You also DO NOT REMOVE the FOUR BOLTS that secure the cylinder on with from underneath.These bolts are underneath the seat with 7/16 studs attached. Plan on investing in a new piston, new cylinder, and new safety relief valve for starters. DO NOT reuse old piston or cylinder. The original style piston had a 3-Steel Ring setup for a wiper and seal. These were not good and wore easily, grooving cylinder walls. When the NAA Tractor came out it had a new system and the piston was changed to have groove on the OD with a rubber O-RING for the seal. It also used leather ring as the wiper and backup washer. These new style parts will also fit on the older 9N, 2N, and 8N. Use them. You need a new cylinder as well so do not try to reuse old one - it will be more trouble. Based on condition of current hydraulic pump, you may also be due for a system rebuild. Cleaning/revamping chambers advised at least. Drain oil first. There are three drain plugs for the system. First one to remove is the rear diffy case with an NPT plug that will have a square shoulder on it. Next drain plug is the pump sump and the next plug going forward is the transmission case. The lattre two will have cork gaskets so get new ones. These should be included in the gasket kit when you get a new cylinder. Start here and report back on progress.

Tim Daley (MI)

I have that hydraulic repair video, it’s a good one. I bought mine maybe twenty years ago.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

the cylinder is free and smooth but the lift arms themselves are frozen... been working on getting them moving freely with heat /pb blaster and oil.... its how i got the brakes unfrozen....... also the bottom of the yoke was not connected to anything and as you mentioned it's connection is under the pump. i am going to pull the pump next since there is so much crud and rust crumb everywhere... it needs a major clean up. i have manuals here but didnt know about the video you posted. i will be checking it out. i need to reference manuals more than i do.... things seem simple on this tractor but there are some things ????? rrrrr

Don't go by 'looks'. Cylinder likely is worn out-of-round and possibly scarred and grooved inside where you can't see. Your lift arms won't move because the system is FUBAR. It ain't functioning anymore (ie cylinder and piston are shot at least) and heating arms is futile. The true root cause problem is the system is in need of R&R'g. The hydraulic system rebuild project is a major job do it right and could be an expensive endeavor if you need a new/rebuilt pump. A total rebuild kit is listed at about $300 and over $500 for a major, more thorough parts kit. These N hyd systems were often neglected and basic PM was not kept up. As long as you could operate equipment/3-PT lift you didn't worry too much. Now after 80 years if use your system is in dire need of repair. Your time. Your money. Your call.

Tim Daley (MI)

 

[wildman1165]

Pics of my 9N..

thank you for the pics ..... i was successful in getting the lid off..... i found that if the lift arms are "frozen" in the up position the lid is very hard to come off because it is trapped. it came out though with leverage and crossed fingers .

 

[wildman1165]

Don't go by 'looks'. Cylinder likely is worn out-of-round and possibly scarred and grooved inside where you can't see. Your lift arms won't move because the system is FUBAR. It ain't functioning anymore (ie cylinder and piston are shot at least) and heating arms is futile. The true root cause problem is the system is in need of R&R'g. The hydraulic system rebuild project is a major job do it right and could be an expensive endeavor if you need a new/rebuilt pump. A total rebuild kit is listed at about $300 and over $500 for a major, more thorough parts kit. These N hyd systems were often neglected and basic PM was not kept up. As long as you could operate equipment/3-PT lift you didn't worry too much. Now after 80 years if use your system is in dire need of repair. Your time. Your money. Your call.

Tim Daley (MI)

i had it completely apart... it was definitely the lift arms that were frozen . the piston has no scoring or any visible wear. it seems odd that there is nowhere to grease the arms (pivots) since no fluid gets to contact it inside. yes the parts for rebuild are pricey so i am going to put it back together and see how it works if it works before commiting to a full rebuild. my actuator arm valve body was missing. i found the spring and housing loose in the bottom but the ends and connector that runs through it all was missing. i ordered a new assembly. when it comes in ill be putting it all back together again. thanks for your help.... and ill most likely be back for more help at some point.