Deere 4020 New Owner Questions

[FFFAM]

Nice old workhorse! If it was me I would change all the fluids, filters and clean the screen. It needs Hyguard or it's equivalent as well as fresh antifreeze. Both are important for longevity and you don't know what's in there now. JMO

Definitely planning that before putting it to use. Have the service and operators manuals on the way already. Planning to put in the proper JD hydraulic fluid and the durex heavy duty pink coolant from our local farm store. It’s diesel specific with a heavy additive package and anti cav as well. I’ve had really good luck with it in all our other tractors.

 

[FFFAM]

st a FYI you need to put a chain over the bucket so it can't fall off if it came loose from the pins. Just part of the DOT requirement When loading and hauling. Might save you that road side discussion in the future. And yes he would figure it out when he got the 10 gallon oil bath.

Good to know for future hauls. Didn’t know it was a requirement, though when hauling my smaller tractor with loader, the bucket is what I chain down on the front… of course it’s a much smaller tractor and fits much better on the trailer. That 4020 was definitely the upper limit of what I’d comfortably put on that trailer, though it did handle it pretty well, I’d say. And was definitely within the safety range of the trailer/truck combo I think.

 

[NY 986]

I don't recognize the part you pictured as being from the tractor. The tachometer is not original. The wear on the shift lever is from a lots and lots of shifting. Way more than 1800 hrs worth. The clutch appears to have been recently (hours) replaced. The tractor looks like it's has been cared for in that most tractors with a loader get banged up pretty bad. I think you've got a nice tractor.

Depends on the life that it had. 1,800 hours of loader work including constant direction change could do that. The hour meter is more of an indicator to me as the current one is not orginal and I doubt the original would have failed over the course of 1,800 hours. But then again much time sitting with moisture could harm an hour meter and the owner may not have known of a place to have it rebuilt hence a new unit. 1,800 hours should be seen in drawbar, 3 pt lift arms, and couplers among other places on the tractor.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Yes welcome. You have done well selecting a rig. As others pointed out it has a few hours but so does mine. If you look at my shifter it’s pretty clean even though it has the same amount of hours or even more by now mine quit at 2204 after going around. The shifter wear is sign of both hours and a loader. Especially on that side of the shifter as it’s forward to reverse in the range. 148 would have been introduced 1973 I believe so it probably had a 48 for awhile if it had a loader. It is in theory possible that it was a holdover and could have had it put on so the customer could have in theory got it that way from the get go. It’s unlikely however as they were selling some tractors then. They are my favorite generation of tractors to work on. Why are they the easiest? No but fairly simple. Fairly capable and when you fix something it stays that way.

 

[matthies]

Thanks for the detail on the loader. Did he engineer some kind of quick disconnect for the brackets? Or just undo the 8 bolts whenever taking the loader off?

Yes just remove the 8 bolts, BUT your loader is missing the lift arm and stand for easier removing of the loader. And looks like it never had them, as they mount on the lift cylinders, and there should be a flat bar mounted to the mounting frame of the loader, to the bushing that is welded to the left side frame, along with a pin in the upper arm of the loader. Leave the muffler alone, and just raise the hood straight up. 2 3/8 bolts are removed on the rear of the hood and 2 bent smooth rods turned towards you behind the mesh screens by radiator. Along with fuel and rad caps.

 

[FFFAM]

I don't recognize the part you pictured as being from the tractor. The tachometer is not original. The wear on the shift lever is from a lots and lots of shifting. Way more than 1800 hrs worth. The clutch appears to have been recently (hours) replaced. The tractor looks like it's has been cared for in that most tractors with a loader get banged up pretty bad. I think you've got a nice tractor.

Hey Larry - follow up question: what makes you think the clutch has been recently replaced (hours wise)? Is it the position of that adjuster hold on the base of the pedal?

Thanks for the help!

With my goals for this tractor (disc now 50 acres of hay 2-3 times a year and use it for loading occasionally when my smaller tractor isn’t big enough) of it does have a newer (hours wise) clutch in it it should last me a good long while.

 

[FFFAM]

Yes just remove the 8 bolts, BUT your loader is missing the lift arm and stand for easier removing of the loader. And looks like it never had them, as they mount on the lift cylinders, and there should be a flat bar mounted to the mounting frame of the loader, to the bushing that is welded to the left side frame, along with a pin in the upper arm of the loader. Leave the muffler alone, and just raise the hood straight up. 2 3/8 bolts are removed on the rear of the hood and 2 bent smooth rods turned towards you behind the mesh screens by radiator. Along with fuel and rad caps.

Super helpful info, and good to know it’s simple to remove the hood, too. I’ve been impressed at how quickly the panels can all be removed between the little spring pins and springs. Cool design.

 

[FFFAM]

Gas or diesel?? Is a high hour tractor.. Is the clutch pedal adjusting bolt clear ahead or clear back??? Tach looks to have been replaced, not faded that much compared to the other gauges.. Gear shift lever has a deep rub groove.. Nice looking tractor, but afraid it has had a lot of use.. I would say the loader has been added, not always been on that tractor..

Clutch pedal adjustment bolt is all the way at the front/bottom of that slot. Would be the side of that slot furthest from the operator sitting in the seat.

 

[JIM MN]

FFFAM-- A follow-up on clutch pedal adjustment... With the adjuster bolt head clear forward, you have a new clutch in your tractor... I would check for correct pedal-- free travel.. That is what that bolt is used for .. Need one-inch free travel measured at top of pedal, -- engine running rated speed... Also check the PTO lever for proper adjustment.. In your operators manual will show how to adjust both of theses???

 

[FFFAM]

FFFAM-- A follow-up on clutch pedal adjustment... With the adjuster bolt head clear forward, you have a new clutch in your tractor... I would check for correct pedal-- free travel.. That is what that bolt is used for .. Need one-inch free travel measured at top of pedal, -- engine running rated speed... Also check the PTO lever for proper adjustment.. In your operators manual will show how to adjust both of theses???

If that’s the case that’s great news, as unless something goes wrong, that clutch should last a good long time with the amount of hours per year we’ll need to put on this unit (guessing around 40 hours of mowing and 10 hours of misc loading annually). Clutch free play appears to be good with that bolt set all the way forward in the slot. Will certainly check the pto lever adjustment as well. I noticed if you zoom in on my pics in the original post, you can see that bolt on the clutch pedal to show the position of it.