Did the "mechanic" lie about my clutch too? Very dangerous condition

The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT
 
The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT
As stated, the guy is a hackmaster and should not be allowed to wrench anything, IMO. Obviously he has no clue and I advise you fix yourself or find another more; reliable shop who knows old FORDS. DO NOT DO ANY SPACERS or anything else he says. GET RID OF HIM and TELL HIM HE IS A HACK. May even consider a report to the BBB in him.

Respectfully,
Tim Daley (MI)
 
The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT
Blocking the clutch pedal down is not necessarily a voo-do action. It is often practiced to keep clutches from sticking, but mainly when they are stored for longer periods say a month or more. I believe you have mentioned you are on the fence about just selling this tractor so maybe you’re not sure if you want to put time and money in the clutch. What I would personally try would be slightly abusing the clutch to see if you can reestablish clutch face surfaces that it is less likely to cause it to stick. Place it in high gear and at about 3/4 throttle and get it moving a bit. Then apply a little brake and just keep slipping the clutch a bit eventually letting completely off the pedal. Maybe repeat this again. Make sure your clutch free play adjustment is maintained properly. If you start to get some smell of a hot clutch that is probably the point you need to get to to make this work.
 
The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT
Your mechanic told you right about blocking the pedal down. Some tractors come with a hook arrangement for holding them down during storage because this situation is so common. If it is a "half the time" situation he probably had it working properly when he turned it back over to you.
 
Your mechanic told you right about blocking the pedal down. Some tractors come with a hook arrangement for holding them down during storage because this situation is so common. If it is a "half the time" situaton he probably had it working properly when he turned it back over to you.
yep, that has been stated for years to do but I never did..no problems with clutch ...sticking or whatever ... PM does wonders

TPD
 
yep, that has been stated for years to do but I never did..no problems with clutch ...sticking or whatever ... PM does wonders

TPD
Just because you never did it and maybe don't believe in it doesn't make it wrong. Depending on the reason for the clutch sticking It doesn't always help but it won't hurt. No one is "hack" for suggesting it.
 
Blocking the clutch has been used by me for stuff stored outside. Mechanical linkage only though. The clutches I've done this to have always worked when needed. I don't consider splitting a tractor to service the stuck clutch because I didn't block it PM. There are a lot of tips that aren't in the factory manuals that have been learned over the years, this is one of them.
 
As stated, the guy is a hackmaster and should not be allowed to wrench anything, IMO. Obviously he has no clue and I advise you fix yourself or find another more; reliable shop who knows old FORDS. DO NOT DO ANY SPACERS or anything else he says. GET RID OF HIM and TELL HIM HE IS A HACK. May even consider a report to the BBB in him.

Respectfully,
Tim Daley (MI)
Dam are you going off on that guy. All he did was to try to make the situation livable, just one little piece of advice, because the OP probably won’t pay to let him fix it correctly. That’s one thing you’re right about is PM works wonders, but is he supposed to do it for free, just to avoid being reported to BBB ?
Here you want hack? He should back it up against a tree and smoke the clutch for about 10 seconds to get all the grease off the disc. Call me a hack if you want, I just saved the guy $1000.
 
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The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT
Blocking the clutch down is a common practice. The true fix is splitting the tractor, cleaning everything up and most likely clutch replacement. Also replacement of the transmission front seal.
It's a 70+yo tractor that at some time in it's life has been abused and neglected. Have you checked the fluids? Does it have any leaks? Oil will swell the clutch disc and will make it stick. If the front transmission seal is leaking the clutch will stick.
 
Blocking the clutch has been used by me for stuff stored outside. Mechanical linkage only though. The clutches I've done this to have always worked when needed. I don't consider splitting a tractor to service the stuck clutch because I didn't block it PM. There are a lot of tips that aren't in the factory manuals that have been learned over the years, this is one of them.
So your inside storage is climate controlled? Dehumidifier?
 
Dam are you going off on that guy. All he did was to try to make the situation livable, just one little piece of advice, because the OP probably won’t pay to let him fix it correctly. That’s one thing you’re right about is PM works wonders, but is he supposed to do it for free, just to avoid being reported to BBB ?
Here you want hack? He should back it up against a tree and smoke the clutch for about 10 seconds to get all the grease off the disc. Call me a hack if you want, I just saved the guy $1000.
Hey Fritz, I gave the guy an open check book. I did not quibble on any prices, nor did I rush him. The mech. worked on my '65 3000 also, when he brought it back, he hauled in my 2N. I did not have a reason to check the 3000 over when he brought it back, as he came highly recommended. I told him on both tractors to make a list and I'd let him know what to repair now and what I'd wait on or do myself. I'm not going to go into the disappointment I have on the 3000, after he worked on it. I do not know where you came up with the "free" nonsense, but you do not know me nor how I do business. I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question. Thanks for ruining my day Fritz, I was having a good day, after finishing putting up a new fence and tending to newborn goats.
 
I want to thank all of you folks for the replies, save one. I don't know anyone that can troubleshoot and repair everything they own, and have the tools to accomplish such a feat.
Much less having said tools and knowledge BEFORE the acquisitions. I searched long and hard for a reputable mechanic. What a let down. I don't mind so called "hacks" but I do demand truthfulness and fair trade.
 
In all fairness to "Hacks", I don't think he's really at fault here. Blocking the pedal down may help, it's just not the best solution. What you have is a contaminated clutch disc that needs to be replaced. I assume he suggested that as an option as well.
 
Hey Fritz, I gave the guy an open check book. I did not quibble on any prices, nor did I rush him. The mech. worked on my '65 3000 also, when he brought it back, he hauled in my 2N. I did not have a reason to check the 3000 over when he brought it back, as he came highly recommended. I told him on both tractors to make a list and I'd let him know what to repair now and what I'd wait on or do myself. I'm not going to go into the disappointment I have on the 3000, after he worked on it. I do not know where you came up with the "free" nonsense, but you do not know me nor how I do business. I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question. Thanks for ruining my day Fritz, I was having a good day, after finishing putting up a new fence and tending to newborn goats.
Well you failed to indicate that he worked on it at all in your original post.
 
Hey Fritz, I gave the guy an open check book. I did not quibble on any prices, nor did I rush him. The mech. worked on my '65 3000 also, when he brought it back, he hauled in my 2N. I did not have a reason to check the 3000 over when he brought it back, as he came highly recommended. I told him on both tractors to make a list and I'd let him know what to repair now and what I'd wait on or do myself. I'm not going to go into the disappointment I have on the 3000, after he worked on it. I do not know where you came up with the "free" nonsense, but you do not know me nor how I do business. I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question. Thanks for ruining my day Fritz, I was having a good day, after finishing putting up a new fence and tending to newborn goats.


''I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question.''

I'm thinking ''your" mechanic may be darned near heartbroken over that, but he'll probably get over it!

There's two sides to every story, I wish we could hear his!
 
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In all fairness to "Hacks", I don't think he's really at fault here. Blocking the pedal down may help, it's just not the best solution. What you have is a contaminated clutch disc that needs to be replaced. I assume he suggested that as an option as well.
No, he dropped off the tractor and said "oh, by the way" it never worked properly, it gave him fits when he was unloading it.
 
Another vote here for blocking the clutch pedal down when the tractor(s) sit for extended periods.
It is currently blocked, I came here with the question/info to make sure he wasn't trying to sell me "snake oil". I have lost all confidence in him. Inability to stop a tractor quickly is hazardous, to say the least.
 

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