Did the "mechanic" lie about my clutch too? Very dangerous condition

[Hobo,NC]

In all fairness to "Hacks", I don't think he's really at fault here. Blocking the pedal down may help, it's just not the best solution. What you have is a contaminated clutch disc that needs to be replaced. I assume he suggested that as an option as well.

I have had several stick both stored inside both in a building that had poor are no venting, condensation got them no doubt. Once I broke them free they worked as they should so my thoughts are like yours a oil soaked clutch. The cure replace the clutch and repair the oil leak.

 

[fatheroftwo]

I have had several stick both stored inside both in a building that had poor are no venting, condensation got them no doubt. Once I broke them free they worked as they should so my thoughts are like yours a oil soaked clutch. The cure replace the clutch and repair the oil leak.

Peachy! lol I can't even auction it off with a clear conscience.

 

[fatheroftwo]

''I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question.''

I'm thinking ''your" mechanic may be darned near heartbroken over that, but he'll probably get over it!

There's two sides to every story, I wish we could hear his!

Stop trolling me please.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Just because you never did it and maybe don't believe in it doesn't make it wrong. Depending on the reason for the clutch sticking It doesn't always help but it won't hurt. No one is "hack" for suggesting it.

yea I know whatever.

That is NOT the problem with his 2N ya know. Sounds like it was something he heard and is just repeatin it

tpd

 

[Fritz Maurer]

''I was planning to also buy a 3rd tractor, a gray market Kabota for him to get running as well. That is now out of the question.''

I'm thinking ''your" mechanic may be darned near heartbroken over that, but he'll probably get over it!

There's two sides to every story, I wish we could hear his!

X2 on “the rest of the story “

 

[showcrop]

X2 on “the rest of the story “

X3 on "the rest of the story"

 

[Btzj02]

It is currently blocked, I came here with the question/info to make sure he wasn't trying to sell me "snake oil". I have lost all confidence in him. Inability to stop a tractor quickly is hazardous, to say the least.

Probably a silly question but, when you pushed in the clutch and it took a while for the tractor to stop, did you have a running rotary mower on the back? If so a new ORC is in order. I also clamp down the clutch pedal when the tractors are put away for the winter.

 

[DoubleO7]

It is currently blocked, I came here with the question/info to make sure he wasn't trying to sell me "snake oil". I have lost all confidence in him. Inability to stop a tractor quickly is hazardous, to say the least.

Was the original work order to split the tractor and fix the clutch?
If yes, is there evidence that the bolts where it would be split were actually ever removed?

Or was the work order to just fiddle with it from the outside?

 

[fatheroftwo]

Last post, and it's a doozy. Limped the tractor around the back pasture, it could not handle the slightest load (a very minor incline) and it sputtered and died. Got off the tractor and went back to the very basics of what it takes for an engine to run. Fuel, air and spark.

I unscrewed the fuel bowl and heard a slight equalization of pressure. Wow, I thought to myself. Walked back to the house and got a gas can and a screw driver. Took the feed line
off of the carb, not one drip. Turned the fuel shut-off the opposite way, not a drip.

I blew into the fuel hose and cleared the obstruction in the tank. I previously told the "mechanic" the tractor had been sitting for years. Fuel flow and bad fuel is pretty high on the list of things to do on a tractor that has been sitting for years. He was also supposed to put the original carb back on, he stated the reason he did not is because the new aftermarket carb had not given him any trouble. How can that be possible with a plugged up fuel tank? He was having nothing but fuel trouble and went as far as to leave the intake hose off of the carb to try to remedy the fact that the carb was getting no fuel, or very little. One last tidbit, he said he greased the tractor, I found little evidence of this, the first fitting I greased water squirted out. All of the other fittings took grease with no other fresh grease coming out. I have been greasing cars since 1978 BTW.

 

[showcrop]

Last post, and it's a doozy. Limped the tractor around the back pasture, it could not handle the slightest load (a very minor incline) and it sputtered and died. Got off the tractor and went back to the very basics of what it takes for an engine to run. Fuel, air and spark.

I unscrewed the fuel bowl and heard a slight equalization of pressure. Wow, I thought to myself. Walked back to the house and got a gas can and a screw driver. Took the feed line
off of the carb, not one drip. Turned the fuel shut-off the opposite way, not a drip.

I blew into the fuel hose and cleared the obstruction in the tank. I previously told the "mechanic" the tractor had been sitting for years. Fuel flow and bad fuel is pretty high on the list of things to do on a tractor that has been sitting for years. He was also supposed to put the original carb back on, he stated the reason he did not is because the new aftermarket carb had not given him any trouble. How can that be possible with a plugged up fuel tank? He was having nothing but fuel trouble and went as far as to leave the intake hose off of the carb to try to remedy the fact that the carb was getting no fuel, or very little. One last tidbit, he said he greased the tractor, I found little evidence of this, the first fitting I greased water squirted out. All of the other fittings took grease with no other fresh grease coming out. I have been greasing cars since 1978 BTW.

Very common scenario. Tractor sits, crud builds up. runs good for awhile but slowly the crud slows the flow of gas. It probably ran good for him. Again, I would like to hear the other side of the story.

 

[Mad Farmer]

The clutch on my 9N started sticking and I've asked advice here. Also talked with a long time Ford dealer/mechanic whose father sold my tractor new. He said holding the clutch down when not in use helps prevent sticking and advised it if not in use for extended periods.

When I first got my TO-20/30 the clutch pedal was wired down so it seems to be a common practice. Wiring down is a PITA so on the Fergy I put a cinder block on the pedal, on the 9N no footboards so I can hang a cinderblock off that one.

 

[cleddy]

The clutch sticks, and the tractor will not stop when the clutch is pushed in for what seems to be an eternity. I almost ran into a tree. It is also hard ro get into gear 1/2 the time. The mechanic said the disc was sticking to the flywheel due to lack of use.
He suggested I put a spacer between the clutch lever and the stop to keep the clutch pedal depressed while not in use to help free it up. I was not going to bring this up, but I no longer have any faith in the "mechanic". Thank you in advance for any helpful replies. FoT

This conversaation sure took a ugly turn?? I have a WD Allis that the clutch doesn't release sometimes-Luck they have a Hand clutch that works? Other tractor works fine all the time. Looking in observation hole only problem I see is clutch disk is rusted on spline shaft and sticks tight on Flywheel. Of course this is from nellect and sitting outside but a Tear down and clean up should fix it. Hoping with use it will free up. Allis Chalmers have a mechanical stop to flip and hold foot clutch down for belt use. Had it been used I might not have this problem. I have seen one clutch where the disk appeared glued solid to Flywheel. Should not be that way after a Rebuild???