Exhaust manifold advice please

[Dober_paw]

She was blowing at #4 – but can’t complain too much as the last fix has lasted better part of 20 years. Trouble is now I’m older, and wiser (thanks to this group), and have forgotten exactly what I did all those years ago.
So - took the hood off – didn’t need to but it improves access and gives the opportunity to inspect/clean parts that are usually difficult to reach. Sure enough – gasket shows #4 blown at the 10:30 position. The manifold looks to be in reasonable shape so I’ll re-use, but on the head it’s a different story - I can see & feel the dimple, don’t need no straight edge! I’ve got Bruce’s instructions re-ThermoSteel etc.. but I’ve got two questions.

(1) The #3 stud is 7/16ths (others 3/8ths) and is not fully into the block, such that the flat spot between the coarse and fine threads extends beyond the manifold – and will require 2 washers (at least) to keep the nut biting into the threaded portion of the stud. Is this OK? (maybe I can answer that myself? Yes – that’s how it was for the last 20 years.)

(2) Bruce says <Use hi-temp Permatex> - Well, OK, I have some “Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone” – but I have no experience of using it – do I put it on both sides of the gasket? Or just the head? Or just the manifold? Also I’m guessing that “less is more” and I don’t want to be slathering it on with a trowel? Some practical Permatex advice please?

One last thought – any advice on refitting the hood? It’s just me and the wife . . . After the slight fight over removing it, I’m guessing the refit is just slow and easy and try and avoid too many cuss words? Maybe flowers and chox?

 

[Dober_paw]

Should also have said - 8N, '52, 6v, Side mount

 

[souNdguy]

you need to tell us what tractor this is?

Is it a ford NAA or any of the 53-64 4cyl jobs with red tiger engine.. or perhaps a fergy ohv job?

It surely is not an N with your description of damaged exhaust port on the head.

i would pull the head and see if a machine shop would weld it up then mill it... or if it could be trued if it was only out a lil. do the same with the manifold or replace it. wear on the manifold and head at the exhaust port double your trouble of keeping a gasket in place.

soundguy

 

[Dober_paw]

hey soundguy - Sorry - think our posts crossed in cyberspace - 8N, '52 side mount.

I'm not into pulling the head. I did a compression test and got 120-115-115-100 - that's dry. Didn't do a wet -- a) 'cos I dont know how to and b) I dont want to borrow trouble. (the dry figures seemed reasonable).

 

[souNdguy]

i think you need to take another look at what machine you have.. or what the problem is.

flatheads don't have manifolds bolted to them...

if your head has a worn spot on port 4.. it's an OHV engine!!

 

[Dober_paw]

Admittedly i've had a couple of beers, but i'm fairly certain she's not an OHV. Can't help thinking we've got off on the wrong foot.

 

[Tim23]

The manifold just isn't bolted to the head. It's not an overhead valve engine, the manifold is bolted to the block correct? '52 8N, flat head 4 cyl.

Good luck with the hood and the wife. My experience is they seem to go on better if you can drop it strait down and not put the front or the back on first. I usually have to wrestle mine on by myself and its not a fun job.

 

[Dober_paw]

Ah - yes indeed - I see my error - yes, the studs are in the block, not head. Tim23 : thanks for the heads-up on hood - guess I'd better double down on the flowers.

 

[Tall T]

Sounds like you should get a stud remover that can be driven by a 1/2" drive ratchet, so as to remove the stud that you say isn't deep enough into the block. If you can remove it then run the appropriate tap into it (in a little then out to clean, then in a little more) to clean up the threaded boss and then reinstall the stud.
I use Rapid Tap for such things and for drilling. It breaks down surface tension.

 

[willie in mn]

Ref installing the hood without fighting with SWMBO.
IIRC, the hood & gas tank are R&R as a unit. Plan ahead a bit, it can be done easily by one person.
1- rig a tempory gas tank, such as from a lawn mower or snow blower.
2- use your cherry picker or run a rope over a rafter/truss & suspend hood assembly off the floor. If your shop is a "blue sky design" use a tree limb.
3- drive tractor under suspended hood.
4- remove the temporary tank.
5- gently lower the hood into place. Snub the rope around the axle or front bumper two or three times, makes it easy to control the drop.
Quicker & easier than convincing SWMBO to help, no pinched fingers, no "blue smoke" language, no sore back, & best of all, no fight with SWMBO.
If you have a smooth floor you can eliminate the temporary tank. Grab the top of rear tire & roll the tractor under the hood/tank assembly.
Willie

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Yea, as others said.....the ports aren't in the head!

Put the gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. Don't worry about too much, better too much than not enough.

You can replace the stud or use washers. If you replace the stud, drain the block; it goes into the water jacket.

Re the hood.....flowers, chocolate or a neighbor.
75 Tips

 

[Dober_paw]

Thanks Bruce.
Maybe I’m overthinking this but if I use too much isn’t there a danger of it squishing into the inlet passage & then sucked into cylinders?
Is there any rule regarding setup/dry time - how soon can one run engine ?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" isn’t there a danger of it squishing into the inlet passage & then sucked into cylinders?"

All you need is enough to stick the gasket to the block. When you tighten it down, you should see just a slight bead puff out around the edges.

" Is there any rule regarding setup/dry time - how soon can one run engine ? "

The directions are on the tube.
75 Tips