Farmall 300 throw out bearing, to replace or not to.

[primerk5]

Now I know what your going to say, "just replace it, for piece of mind" Here's my dilemma though. This tractor was not a running machine when I got it. I overhauled the engine as it was stuck from being full of rain water. I'm about ready to put it back in and I was taking a last look at things before I plug the engine back in. I've not had to replace a throw out bearing in an model H or any thing of the like so I do not know what play there is in a new bearing. This tractor had a practically brand new clutch in it. The bearing to me looks new with only a slight amount of wear where the pressure plate fingers would have rubbed it. It was fairly clean and you can still see what I would describe as matching marks on that same surface. It's a federal Mogul. My concern is that I can move the inner race side to side within the bearing housing. If I put pressure on the inner race and spin the outer surface everything seems to rotate very smoothly. I'm thinking it's probably good and I'm figuring it was new when the clutch was installed. The play in the inner race bothers me and I just don't know if that same amount of play is present in a new bearing. Wish I could post a picture of the bearing.

I'm not above getting a new one for this but I hate to throw away a perfectly good bearing if I'm just misinterpreting it's condition based on the play I'm finding. I really do think it's new and probably was replaced with the clutch. I'm just not sure about the play. I also don't want to be splitting this thing again to replace these bearings when I could have taken care of it.

Did IH do away with the ability to grease these bearings? There is a bit of grease in the center of the transmission input shaft but I think that is there when the clutch was installed. I do not see a way to grease the throw out bearing or the pilot bearing as you can do on the model H tractors. It appears the throw out bearing probably could accept grease between the inner race and the plastic thing that is also in that area. But I don't see how you could get any grease in the pilot bearing.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Dh2jr]

Replace it for peace of mind. I'd also do
clutch and pressure plate

 

[D Slater]

Can't make a recommendation on bearing without being there. IH started using a sealed pilot bearing with no grease passage on real late H tractors on up. Did make a change on greasing the release bearing. 300 started out without a way to grease then a later change to a bearing carrier with a grease pipe and zerk to bottom. Bearing carriers with a R1 suffix no grease port. R2 suffix with. Don't remember when change was made to tractors and service parts. Maybe look where I put that information later.

 

[DR. EVIL]

I think I'd pay a visit to your local CIH dealer and explain your situation to the parts guy and He would
probably let you look at a brand new T/O bearing right out of the box to compare with your bearing.

 

[bc]

Hello D. I noticed my 2606 has the grease pipe and zerk where you have to remove the bottom plate to get to. (I have to make a new plate out of tin since it is gone). Wondering how often do you have to grease those bearing carriers? Thanks.

 

[D Slater]

Operators manual lists every 150 hours of operation. They had complaints of the bearing carrier getting dry and sliding hard on snout more than a bearing problem on previous ones.

 

[D Slater]

Factory built tractors starting at following serial numbers were equipped with a different bearing and carrier with grease zerk. F-350- 747, I- 350- 1220 F-350-D- 746, I-350-D- 1222. Will say I can't remember finding a used release bearing without some side to side play and have used some again. Never know if the new parts now are as good as whats there.

 

[the tractor vet]

Ah throw out bearing greasing . One of two most neglected bearing on a Farm following WHEEL bearings . BUT if they do grease them they really grease them . Treat throw out bearing like the old Brel Cream commercial, a little dab will do ya .

 

[NY 986]

There would not be a new throw out bearing on the shelf to look at from the nearest CIH dealer. That space would have been repurposed for Krause, Claas, or a few other sidelines that the dealer picked up since the mid-1980's. I've been told this over the years by their employees. They only have the very basics for service for tractors of that vintage. Seems to me that the last time I inquired about a tune up kit for the IH equipped distributor on the M that they would have to order it. More money in keeping a Claas chopper going on a 2000 cow dairy than taking care of a guy that might spend 10 dollars per year at their store.

 

[DR. EVIL]

CIH dealers are different here in south central Wisconsin. I've split my parts buys between 3 different dealers. Two have lost their CIH contracts but they still handle non-OEM parts for many old IH tractors.
I've had to special order some parts for older IH Cub Cadets. Have you priced a new gas tank for a 1965 Cub Cadet lately?
I had a brake hanging up on my Super H a couple years ago. My local dealer I bought the most parts from had both CIH brake disks and A&I, which were thicker and cheaper, which is what I bought. Plus all new ball bearings and springs, the special ones that hold the actuator together.
I've never asked, but I bet at least 2 of my 3 normal dealers would have a throw-out bearing for a 300/350. I've got to buy new main & rod bearings for my SH someday, seals & gaskets, probably new valve springs to complete a major overhaul. I expect some parts will be special order.

 

[NY 986]

Some dealers tried hanging on after their association with CaseIH ended but around here I am not aware of any that are doing business on any level today. I tried calling a former dealer a few weeks ago after word got out about them wanting to empty the building. I never heard back. I can't imagine there were a lot of people looking for 40 plus year old IH hay and forage parts. Oh well, I guess we will all soldier on.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Foe ease of greasing we have put bulkhead fittings in the bottom or side covers with a hose to the throwout bearing much like semis have then a grease fitting in the bulkhead fitting. IT can be greased when ever it needs it without being forgotten nor over greased.Though a squirt or two once a year is probably enough unless you are a clutch rider or using it on an excessive clutch use job.

 

[bc]

I think I can still put a fitting in the cover when I make it. Would have been easier when it was split but will see if that tube will come loose and make an extension. Thanks.