Ford 172 diesel squealing noise, no oil pressure, loose harmonic balancer bolt, and white smoke out of breather

[showcrop]

The fitting coming off the manifold is supposed to have a valve and hose adapter in it. It is where you plug in for vacuum to operate your milking machine when the power goes out. In the other pictures you have a distributor on the left, a fuel screen housing in the middle, and on the right the crankcase breather/oil fill.

 

[wore out]

The fitting coming off the manifold is supposed to have a valve and hose adapter in it. It is where you plug in for vacuum to operate your milking machine when the power goes out. In the other pictures you have a distributor on the left, a fuel screen housing in the middle, and on the right the crankcase breather/oil fill.

The "fuel screen housing" is more commonly known as a "mechanical fuel pump".

Depending upon what machine tbe engine came out of the fitting on the intake may have supplied vacuum to something on the machine or someone may have installed some sort of PCV "Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. Simply remove it and put a pipe plug in the threaded port.

 

[used red MN]

I have a few questions about the gas engine I bought.

What is the pipe going into the intake?View attachment 65425

What's this thing? Power steering pump?

View attachment 65426View attachment 65427

Thanks!

Another purpose of the vacuum fitting may be to prime irrigation pumps. If your fuel system is gravity flow you can purchase a mechanical fuel pump block off plate and eliminate it. Example block off

 

[Woodtractor1]

What about this hydraulic pump? Can I leave it in place for now? Or do I have to remove it before I run the engine?

 

[used red MN]

Are you just running it before you install it or are you talking about permanent install. For a couple minutes run you could dump whatever oil will pour in that top pipe at least a cup or so. That will lube the pump for a couple minutes run. Otherwise for permanent it will have to come off and be blocked off.

 

[Woodtractor1]

Hi, I installed and fired up the gas engine today! I ran out of daylight before I could get the radiator installed and run the engine for more than a few seconds, but it was encouraging to see it start immediately.

Should the electric fuel pump be wired to always turn on with the ignition? Or is it wired into the distributor somehow? Ill likely need a new sediment bowl filter because it leaks under the pressure. Also, I'm using an alternator with a built in regulator if that helps.

There's a dinging noise I believe is from the crankshaft pulley bolts being too long. There was a hydraulic pump originally attached on the donor forklift that mated to the pulley. I thought lock washers spaced it enough because it spun freely when in my garage. I will check it out tomorrow. Sounds like an ice cream truck.

Unless you guys can think of another reason it dings. I'll break out the stethoscope tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help so far!

 

[used red MN]

As woreout points out and I reiterated that sediment bowl is an actual fuel pump. If you are pushing fuel through it with an electric pump you are setting yourself up for a failure. The internal seals of those occasionally fail. When that happens even with no electric pump pressuring it they can leak gas into the crankcase. The electric pump would just increase this risk. Sometimes when this happens the gas oil mix in the crankcase gives off enough vapor that the combustion in the cylinders will cause an internal explosion and rip the tin oil pan and valve cover loosed from the engine. Either the electric or mechanical pump should be used by itself. Wiring the pump to always run with the key is fine. In automobiles electric fuel pumps rely on the engine to be running to continue to operate after a brief timed start up cycle. The main reason is so in the case of an accident that compromises the fuel system the pump is not running to pump a gas puddle that may ignite.

 

[Woodtractor1]

I'm talking about the glass bowl connected to the carburetor. Not the fuel pump attached to the engine block

 

[showcrop]

Hi, I installed and fired up the gas engine today! I ran out of daylight before I could get the radiator installed and run the engine for more than a few seconds, but it was encouraging to see it start immediately.

Should the electric fuel pump be wired to always turn on with the ignition? Or is it wired into the distributor somehow? Ill likely need a new sediment bowl filter because it leaks under the pressure. Also, I'm using an alternator with a built in regulator if that helps.

There's a dinging noise I believe is from the crankshaft pulley bolts being too long. There was a hydraulic pump originally attached on the donor forklift that mated to the pulley. I thought lock washers spaced it enough because it spun freely when in my garage. I will check it out tomorrow. Sounds like an ice cream truck.

Unless you guys can think of another reason it dings. I'll break out the stethoscope tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help so far!

I once had a 960 that was dinging. It was a sleeve going up and down with the piston. However, I think that your's is parent bore.

 

[Woodtractor1]

What is this? It started lightly smoking when I ran the engine for a few minutes?

I also hooked up the radiator today and the waterpump leaks. So I need to replace it.

 

[Janicholson]

What is this? It started lightly smoking when I ran the engine for a few minutes?View attachment 65784View attachment 65785
I also hooked up the radiator today and the waterpump leaks. So I need to replace it.

That is the ignition ballast resistor. It gets hot (to radiate the heat from the 2.5 ohm resistoe. It would be best if it were bolted to a bracket through that hole to help dissipate heat.
The waterpump packing can be adjusted to stop leaks, (unless it has been done too many times. There are videos to do it. Jim

 

[Woodtractor1]

The resistor is currently wired between the coil and the distributor. The ford manual wiring diagram shows it between the ignition and the coil. Does this matter?

 

[used red MN]

The resistor is currently wired between the coil and the distributor. The ford manual wiring diagram shows it between the ignition and the coil. Does this matter?
View attachment 65806

There have been posts on these forums debating whether or not that configuration is equally as functional as the way shown in your wiring diagram. Usually the final concession is that wiring it as shown in the diagram is the approved practice. With respect to Jim, I don’t think your engine has the type of water pump that the packing can be adjusted on so replacing or rebuilding it is necessary to repair the leak.

 

[wore out]

The resistor is currently wired between the coil and the distributor. The ford manual wiring diagram shows it between the ignition and the coil. Does this matter?
View attachment 65806

This has been brought up many times on these Boards and as far as I can recall no one has EVER stated that they've seen a machine that's "as it left the factory" with the primary resistor between the coil and distributor.

There's a technical reason or two for having the resistor "ahead" of the coil, and the manufacturers apparently agreed with those. (Has to do with "coil ringing" and a longer spark duration.)

Putting the resistor "where it belongs" is a simple matter and probably won't affect spark enough to change how this relatively low speed and compression engine starts and runs, but, personally, I'd simply swap a few connections and follow the OEM diagram.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The gas engine will not likely come with a lift pump, you will probably need to set it up to gravity flow.

Or install a simple inexpensive 12V click-clack pump.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The fitting coming off the manifold is supposed to have a valve and hose adapter in it. It is where you plug in for vacuum to operate your milking machine when the power goes out. In the other pictures you have a distributor on the left, a fuel screen housing in the middle, and on the right the crankcase breather/oil fill.

Dang you beat me to the milking machine answer...

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

View attachment 65490
What about this hydraulic pump? Can I leave it in place for now? Or do I have to remove it before I run the engine?

Put some oil in it and loop the ends together.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The resistor is currently wired between the coil and the distributor. The ford manual wiring diagram shows it between the ignition and the coil. Does this matter?
View attachment 65806

If the coil is not burning up, then it doesn't matter.

The advantage to wiring it up between the ignition switch and coil is, you can run a separate 12V feed from the "I" post on the solenoid (if it has one) directly to the coil to provide extra voltage to the coil during starting.

 

[showcrop]

Dang you beat me to the milking machine answer...

My 901 that had that adapter came originally from Newark Valley Ford

 

[Woodtractor1]

I have everything wired correctly now. The engine does not run well under load or at higher rpm's. I changed the spark plugs. I'm using fresh gas. I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold to check for leaks. What else should I check out?
I tried to upload a video but it says the file is too large.
Thanks in advance. I really need this machine up and running for work.