FORD 3000 Electrical

[lucwhite]

A couple weeks ago, I posted about getting my 1973 Ford 3000 gas tractor started. Because of the advice, I got it running last week with correct
timing and new points and condenser. However, a few days ago, I tried setting the timing again because it was running terribly like the timing was little
off, and now I guess I set it too far and I cant get it started for the life of me. I am 95% sure I got the distributor on correctly now. When the number
one cylinder is all the way up and the zero on the flywheel is lined up with the arrow, I point the rotor towards the one on the cap and put it into place.
However, when I look at the spark, they are all very weak and yellow. The coil is brand new and so are the spark plugs. It turns over great, the battery
charges, but there is no indication of it even trying to start. Does anyone know what this might be?

 

[teddy52food]

Condenser?

 

[JMOR]

" number
one cylinder is all the way up and the zero on the flywheel is lined up with the arrow, " Well, that gives you a 50/50 chance of having it correct!

 

[Jerry/MT]

+ 1 JMOR is correct, you are probably 180 out of time. This is a 4 stroke engine so #1 goes through TDC once every
revolution. You need to time it at the top of the COMPRESSION STROKE.
Pull the #1 spark plug out, put your thumb over the spark plug hole and slowing crank the engine until you feel
pressure. You are on the compression stroke. Now bring it to the timing mark and you're at the proper timing point.
Loosen the distributor slightly so you can turn it with some resistance. Install the spark plug, put a paper clip into
the spark plug boot, turn on the ignition, hold the boot with the paper clip near a good ground and slightly rotate the
distributor back and forth until you hear the spark snap. At that point you are statically timed. Tighten down the
distributor. The engine will start. Now check the timing with a timing light and adjust accordingly. Rev the engine
and make sure the spark advances.

 

[lucwhite]

Yes, the condenser should be good as well because I replaced it when I got the points, rotor, and cap. As for the 50/50 chance of having the timing right, I thought that when the first cylinder was all the way up, it was a compression stroke and that that should align with the one on the distributor.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:41:19 09/15/23) Yes, the condenser should be good as well because I replaced it when I got the points, rotor, and cap. As for the 50/50 chance of having the timing right, I thought that when the first cylinder was all the way up, it was a compression stroke and that that should align with the one on the distributor.

t is all the way up on compression stroke and also all the way up on the exhaust stroke.

 

[used red MN]

You said ..I tried setting the timing again.. what do you mean when you say ..setting the timing..? On a running tractor that usually does not involve removing the distributor, but rather just turning the distributor housing. Engines particularly tractor engines with gear drive camshafts will not come out of time when running to the point the distributor needs pulled and realigned. Unless something has failed terribly and that would usually involve the distributor drive. The engine was running, but after that when you pulled the distributor did you turn the engine quite a bit to locate the piston all the way up and line up the timing mark? If you had aligned the rotor to number one position in the cap before you pulled the distributor and only turned the engine slightly the distributor should still be in time. If you rotated the engine ..Willy-nillly.. and just stopped when the piston was up and the marks aligned then as others described it could be at TDC compression or TDC exhaust.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

The distributor has a helical gear. Did you line up the rotor then push it in? You need to have the rotor positioned so that it is pointing to the right place when the distributor is all the way down. Sometimes it involves two or three tries jumping one tooth at a time.

 

[lucwhite]

Okay, an update; I have it running and when I start to start it, it fires right up. However, when I try to rev up the engine anything past idle, it misfires and sputters. I have adjusted the timing by turning the distributor and even tried the next gear or two inside the distributor. Nothing seems to help. Im not sure if I have the carburetor adjusted right, but even when I turn the jet at the top of the carb., it doesnt seem to make a difference. Does the vacuum advance line have to be attached to rev up the engine? Thanks for your advice.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 14:51:23 09/16/23) Okay, an update; I have it running and when I start to start it, it fires right up. However, when I try to rev up the engine anything past idle, it misfires and sputters. I have adjusted the timing by turning the distributor and even tried the next gear or two inside the distributor. Nothing seems to help. Im not sure if I have the carburetor adjusted right, but even when I turn the jet at the top of the carb., it doesnt seem to make a difference. Does the vacuum advance line have to be attached to rev up the engine? Thanks for your advice.

Do you have a manual or what are you using to guide you as far as specs and your carb work? What did you set the point clearance at? Are the plug wires 1-2-3, counterclockwise around the cap? Have you used a timing light to check the timing? Which carb do you have Holley or Zenith? Is the float level correct?

The vacuum line should be hooked up or plugged. If hooked up, you should check to see that the advance chamber doesn't have a leak.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Kind of. Depends on where you have it adjusted. You can get them to run albeit not perfect. Was the 3 cylinder version of this equipped with vacuum advance? Our older 2000 is a 4 so Im a bit unfamiliar and Ive heard they are very different. I had the vacuum advance going out of the forklift to where it wouldnt run right after soaked in liquid fertilizer at the coop 3 months prior which actually caused separate corrosion issues couldnt even pull the cap. I adjusted the timing to somewhere in between where it would still start and not die to get by for a couple days until the new distributor showed up. With 3 cylinders it might be more difficult to find that sweet spot to get by because theres more degrees between each fire less forgiving but balanced for smoother running when everything is working