FORD 3000 Timing Issue

[lucwhite]

I just recently got my 1973 Ford 3000 gas 3 cylinder up and running again after several months of sitting. However, I cant get the thing adjusted correctly. I have the distributor on correctly, but even when it is timed close, when I rev the motor, it runs for 15 seconds and then spits and sputters. It stays running, but it sounds terrible. I tried adjusting the jet screw on the top of the Holley carb., but that didnt seem to do much good. The spark plugs get blackened very quickly but everything runs great at an idle. Also, my vacuum advance line is broken, but I didnt think this had anything to do with me trying to set the timing when the engine was at a higher RPM. I would love some advice. Thanks.

 

[Recoil]

(quoted from post at 00:30:08 09/17/23) I just recently got my 1973 Ford 3000 gas 3 cylinder up and running again after several months of sitting. However, I cant get the thing adjusted correctly. I have the distributor on correctly, but even when it is timed close, when I rev the motor, it runs for 15 seconds and then spits and sputters. It stays running, but it sounds terrible. I tried adjusting the jet screw on the top of the Holley carb., but that didnt seem to do much good. The spark plugs get blackened very quickly but everything runs great at an idle. Also, my vacuum advance line is broken, but I didnt think this had anything to do with me trying to set the timing when the engine was at a higher RPM. I would love some advice. Thanks.

Fix your vacuum advance line and time it at idle. In addition to that, your tractor is running rich if your plugs are black.

 

[Sean in PA]

That distributor has two advance mechanisms. One is a mechanical one that uses weights and springs inside the distributor down below the points, and the other is the vacuum advance. The diaphragm in the vacuum advance has most likely ruptured from age as have most of them by now, and a replacement is not available, so most folks set the timing a little bit more advanced than the book calls for at idle so that it advances enough from the mechanical advance to operate fairly decently at higher rpms as well. If that doesn't help, you might check out the mechanical advance mechanism to make sure nothing is worn in there.