Ford E4OD/4R100 transmission issues

[dhermesc]

I have owned 4 Fords with this transmission and have had major problems with 3 of them.


I bought a 2000 F250 SuperDuty with 110K miles on it - an old man's truck that had never been used as a truck. It had neither a reciever hitch or a gooseneck hitch (I installed both) and looked like
it had never carried anything in the bed. Changed the fluids (trans, axles, transfer case, coolant) and we used it (V10) on the same loads we were using a 1992 F250 with a 351W ZF5 - only much fewer
because I wouldn't allow son to drive my truck. At 125K miles the transmission is slow to go into reverse and shifts weird - slow to shift up and sometimes refusing to shift into overdrive while
going down the road. Transmission shop says a clutch is hanging up and the torque converter is giving an error code about not locking up. No reading but they assumed it had low pump pressure for the
slow shifts. They said fixing it right would mean an overhaul.

Anyone else had this poor of luck with these transmissions? I know they are all old trucks but the 2000 SD appeared well maintained and when I changed the fluids I could tell transmission and transfer
case had been serviced in the past. I've owned F150s with the C6 and the AODE transmissions that were beat senseless but usually the transmissions were fine. As for a matter fact these F250s are the
only transmission issues I've ever had - besides a Dodge Stratus that failed at 20K.

I plan on replacing this one myself - the truck doesn't see enough use to justify the $4200 the transmission shop wants to replace it.

Anyone know of a decent supplier - a supplier to definately stay away from?

I found this guy:

https://tomsrivertransmissions.com/4r100-transmission

Comes with torque converter and 2 year 24K warranty for $1350. If you pay an extra $200 you get a better torque converter and a 4 year 40K warranty.

 

[Sprint 6]

I had a customer buy a mail order transmission. I got paid to swap it twice, then sold him a reputable rebuild.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Updated parts for the E4OD run about $1200. If you go with the supplier shown, googl him for reviews or complaints. I would have to add the added $200 for the better warranty/parts.
HOWEVER. Before you do all that, I would have to run a volt meter past the TPS, verify no bad spots and voltages at both idle, engine off, and wide open throttle, engine off.
Then just for the giggles of it either toss a range selector (Neutral) switch at it or spend the time inspecting voltages/resistance on yours.
If those check out, might be time to do a trans swap.

Now if you are tired of dealing with Ford's idea of a transmission and need something that might make it down the road with the kid driving it and tow 30,000 pounds then getting away from that thing could be worth a look.
Custon Automatic Conversions in Florida might be worth a fast look.

 

[560Dennis]

Had a 98 f150 the 2 to 3 shift spring broke 140 k ,8 dollars spring went onto 300 k the frame rotted in half . All I know .
Wonder how many transmission got swapped out because of an 8 dollar spring and four quarts of tranny oil ,oh well !

 

[Robin Hood]

I have a 97 super duty that was acquired two years ago. Sometimes it wouldnt shift up, sometimes shift down by itself, and two different transmission shops couldnt get their code reader to communicate with the trucks computer. Turned out to be corrosion at the computer plug in the cab. Has been working pretty good since.
Dont know if this helps.

 

[dhermesc]

Basic rebuild kits are in the $350-$450 range. Kits for a upgrade for 500 hp start around $750 all the way up to $1500.

I did check this guy out through the BBB - sounds like the typical New Jersey chiseler and not someone I would want to do business with from Kansas.

 

[the tractor vet]

I had two ford trucks with SLUSH BOXES , The 73 F 250 4X4 that got UP GRADED two weeks after i bought it and the sun kissed Lemon 1978 F 250 4X4 that never made it home the first night i bought it and had to be towed back and would not last more then 9 days with out a tow back to the dealer . The 73 was a gutless pig and had a bad drinking problem . The 360 got pulled out and a 428 S/CJ dropped in that solved the gutlessness and also the drinking problem , the C 6 got major shell we say UPDATES on the bench and lasted five years with no problems , BUT back then ya had something to work with . The 78 the C6 in it was garbage straight out of the factory and when built at the factory one clutch disc and one plate was never installed in the forward clutch pac. and the stupid mechanic at the dealer never checked and just put the same amount in each time it failed , he did this four times in six weeks , Then they istalled a NEW from the factory complete trans and it lasted four days . Not till i pulled that one myself and scattered it all over my bench did i find the problem . Ford made major cost cutting and changes to the OLD C 6 way back in 10 May 1975 when they no longer used the 6 clutches and 6 disc in ALL three clutch pac. and went to four four and three softened up the shifts lowered Pressures and shift points. . Now never being in and EOD they are somewhat like a C 6 with a OD unit added and now electric shift and computer controlled shifting . They now slide the clutch pac's in and out to the point ya hardly feel a shift and they added inside the T/C a lock up clutch that usually loc's up around 35-40 MPH to help with fuel mileage and act somewhat like a std. trans in the higher ranges . But if the lock up pressures are low to start with and ya have enough pony power to walk thru the lock up then ya shorten the life of the lock up clutch . Myself i work b the old school thought and that is IF you want to haul IRON then it takes IRON to haul it with in other words get a standard transmission . Replacing a OLD fashion Clutch is a LOT easier and CHEAPER then a slush box rebuild . Even the might Allisons FAIL , Cat Power shift FAIL . OLD STUFF is almost eternal . Yes i have had OLD clutches fail The clutches back in the late sixty's were failing due to eye bolt breakage , had one fail at 7500 RPM , NOT FUN . pulled the centers out of three , Due to a few more Pony's then it could take . But all took less time and money to replace and or repair. The only Slush box that was a fast easy and not to expensive to do were the old 727 and 904 torqueflites . OUT and back in with a full rebuild in usually 6 hours with two working on one that knew what they were doing in under 3 1/2 hours .

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Basic. Then update a few Ford design flaws, add a decent converter and $1200 hits real fast from the wholesale parts supplier. Not the retail auto parts store.
However, CA Conversions is still out there.

 

[dhermesc]

That is worth checking. Given the age a poor connection making the transmission do weird things is a very real possibility. After it went to the shop everything functioned as it should - except the reverse - under a slight load you can really feel that clutch grip and release.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I had a '99 250, bought with 93K that was from a HVAC company. I changed fluid once and never had tranny issues up to 248K when I sold it. But it was always slow going into gear. Made rocking it nearly impossible.

 

[Check Break]

Anyone know of a decent supplier - a supplier to definately stay away from?

Asking who builds a good transmission is like asking what kind of oil to use. John Wood (Holtville, CA) is the standard to measure everyone else by. Next in line is BTS, but their track record is not unblemished. John told me anyone can build a Ford transmission the way he does, but they don't want to. There's no shortcuts to reliability.

There's lots of info on the web about John. I don't see how you're going to get in and out for much less than $2K, if you do the R&R yourself, and that doesn't include the cost of a new cooler, which needs to be replaced. Not sure what those are going for now.

 

[dhermesc]

Actually I was having an issue with either the TPS or the IAC. On very cold days the truck would fire up run for a few seconds then die. If you feathered the gas pedal during start up it would stay running and after 30 seconds the truck would run and idle as it should. With the warmer weather it went away and I worried about other things.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Cold day idle problem is generally the IAC. I have changed a few of those out over the years. You can also try taking it off and cleaning it out with carb spray. The TPS is generally known for erratic shifts as well as the Range selector (Neutral) switch. If you were running a GM product, I would also tell you to look at the MAT.
Another problem, I have seen with Fords and a few others is the BARO sensor going bad and not popping codes.
That however has been a few years and most of those vehicles are off the road, including the Chrysler that did it to me.
My 02/94 F350 7.3 idiT is getting an Allison stuffed into it instead. Yes. I am spending the kids inheritance.
I gave you a few things to check out or you could be like a few folks and find it after you install the new unit or better yet, as a nation wide fleet shop I worked in, before I got there, would send the trans in for replacement due to a bad range selector switch. No. I was not the one who found that, it was another fella that vgot hired in. The range switch was part of the rebuild. I believe they sent in no less than 10 of those for rebuild before it was found out.