Help Help! Solenoid problem

[Caryc]

I'm guessing the picture below is my solenoid on my MF202. It doesn't look anything like the pictures of the solenoids in the MF202 parts on this website. It's mounted right next to the voltage regulator. Anyway I'm getting nothing (not even a click when pushing the starter button switch. The switch is good. I pulled it out and did a continuity test on it so I assume it's good.

Anyway how do I test that solenoid to see if it good or bad? I removed the three connections and cleaned and filed the wire ends and nuts and washers so, all the connections are good. Any info would be appreciated guys. Oh yeah, my coil is mounted to the block right above the starter where you would normally find a solenoid.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Should be fairly straight forward to test the solenoid. Does power reach the small red wire by itself when cranking?
If Yes does voltage reach both sides of solenoid when cranking?
If no try jumping solenoid from big non ground wire to little wire by itself with tractor in NEUTRAL.
What’s the extra wire coming off the big red wire? Where does that thing go? And does unhooking it help crank?

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm guessing the picture below is my solenoid on my MF202. It doesn't look anything like the pictures of the solenoids in the MF202 parts on this website. It's mounted right next to the voltage regulator. Anyway I'm getting nothing (not even a click when pushing the starter button switch. The switch is good. I pulled it out and did a continuity test on it so I assume it's good.

Anyway how do I test that solenoid to see if it good or bad? I removed the three connections and cleaned and filed the wire ends and nuts and washers so, all the connections are good. Any info would be appreciated guys. Oh yeah, my coil is mounted to the block right above the starter where you would normally find a solenoid.

With the tractor in neutral to be safe before starting this. You have battery power on one cable (large red one I am guessing). I would expect the small wire on that terminal goes to the ammeter. The cable at the top should go to the starter, if the red one is the battery. The small wire in the center should be power from the starter switch through the neutral switch.

A booster cable connected to one large terminal and touched to the other large terminal disengage the starter. A small jumper wire between the battery cable terminal and the small terminal should engage the starter,if the solenoid works. If it doesn't loosen and tighten the solenoid mounting screws to see if the ground is bad, then check it with the jumper again to see if it works. If not it is likely failed. If it works with the jumper to the small terminal, there may be a failure in the start circuit between the switch and solenoid. You can use a test light or voltmeter on the small terminal to see if it is getting power when you turn the key, or push the button to start. If not find the neutral switch and use a jumper across its terminals to bypass it and see if it works from the switch/button then.

 

[Caryc]

Should be fairly straight forward to test the solenoid. Does power reach the small red wire by itself when cranking?
If Yes does voltage reach both sides of solenoid when cranking?
If no try jumping solenoid from big non ground wire to little wire by itself with tractor in NEUTRAL.
What’s the extra wire coming off the big red wire? Where does that thing go? And does unhooking it help crank?

It's getting dark here now so I won't be working on it. The problem is that I can't get it to crank. Like I said above...nothing. Why would I want to remove that other wire on with the big red one? It's been running just as you see it in the picture for eight years.

 

[Jim.ME]

With the tractor in neutral to be safe before starting this. You have battery power on one cable (large red one I am guessing). I would expect the small wire on that terminal goes to the ammeter. The cable at the top should go to the starter, if the red one is the battery. The small wire in the center should be power from the starter switch through the neutral switch.

A booster cable connected to one large terminal and touched to the other large terminal disengage the starter. A small jumper wire between the battery cable terminal and the small terminal should engage the starter,if the solenoid works. If it doesn't loosen and tighten the solenoid mounting screws to see if the ground is bad, then check it with the jumper again to see if it works. If not it is likely failed. If it works with the jumper to the small terminal, there may be a failure in the start circuit between the switch and solenoid. You can use a test light or voltmeter on the small terminal to see if it is getting power when you turn the key, or push the button to start. If not find the neutral switch and use a jumper across its terminals to bypass it and see if it works from the switch/button then.

The booster cable between the two large terminals should engage the starter, I think auto fill is helping me.

 

[Caryc]

With the tractor in neutral to be safe before starting this. You have battery power on one cable (large red one I am guessing). I would expect the small wire on that terminal goes to the ammeter. The cable at the top should go to the starter, if the red one is the battery. The small wire in the center should be power from the starter switch through the neutral switch.

A booster cable connected to one large terminal and touched to the other large terminal disengage the starter. A small jumper wire between the battery cable terminal and the small terminal should engage the starter,if the solenoid works. If it doesn't loosen and tighten the solenoid mounting screws to see if the ground is bad, then check it with the jumper again to see if it works. If not it is likely failed. If it works with the jumper to the small terminal, there may be a failure in the start circuit between the switch and solenoid. You can use a test light or voltmeter on the small terminal to see if it is getting power when you turn the key, or push the button to start. If not find the neutral switch and use a jumper across its terminals to bypass it and see if it works from the switch/button then.

So, I guess you're saying that the solenoid body needs to be grounded to the frame? I didn't think of that.

 

[Jim.ME]

So, I guess you're saying that the solenoid body needs to be grounded to the frame? I didn't think of that.

Usually, they ground through the base mounting screws, if it takes power to engage it, as I believe your 202 is wired, and I think that solenoid is made. If it has at least one screw holding it and has been starting, it is possible rust and corrosion, or a loose screw have caused it to lose it ground. That could be one possible cause of your non-start and should be checked.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

It's getting dark here now so I won't be working on it. The problem is that I can't get it to crank. Like I said above...nothing. Why would I want to remove that other wire on with the big red one? It's been running just as you see it in the picture for eight years.

Often the small wire like that attached to the solenoid will split and cause nut on it to be loose. At the very least check it or spin a new nut on if you have one

 

[Jim.ME]

So, I guess you're saying that the solenoid body needs to be grounded to the frame? I didn't think of that.

In case you find the solenoid (aka relay) is the problem, looking at the parts book it is currently mounted in the location shown in the book. The OEM part number is 182696M91, which was a metal case saddle mount. Replacements now may come with a metal or plastic case. The part number for a replacement on this site's store is 150223. A Standard Motor Products SS547A would be a replacement, NAPA offers the ST51 and ST51B. A parts store should be able to match the one on your tractor, if you want, it is likely for a newer vehicle or lawn tractor.

 

[Caryc]

Usually, they ground through the base mounting screws, if it takes power to engage it, as I believe your 202 is wired, and I think that solenoid is made. If it has at least one screw holding it and has been starting, it is possible rust and corrosion, or a loose screw have caused it to lose it ground. That could be one possible cause of your non-start and should be checked.

BINGO !!! We have lift off. It has one screw holding the solenoid on and I was able to wiggle it. I loosened that one screw and wiggled the solenoid back and forth then tightened the screw again.

That was it. It started right up. Many thanks to all you guys for your replies. There's a wealth of knowledge on this forum. I've taken advantage of it many times over the years.