Is solenoid correct or not? Can i wire it?

Dwd14329

Member
Limpy needs help again. As I mentioned in previous post, I was breaking the plastic housing on my solinoid. Over torque or whatever. Now my issue is the starter is not engaging. I just completed putting my tractor together after some minor repairs. I made sure I didn't pinch ignition wires when installing hood. I also inspected wiring and nothing has disconnected. Other than me breaking tge solenoid, it was turning over good. I had to replace manifold.

My question: see pictures, are these interchangeable or do I have to add a wire to the "S" terminal on the new napa solenoid I purchased? My old one just had a "I" terminal. I tried gluing the housing together on my old one but it failed to work.

Better yet; how should I wire the new napa solenoid if it's compatable?

1947 2N 12v conversion, 3 wire alt.
 

Attachments

  • 20240105_154056.jpg
    20240105_154056.jpg
    246.1 KB · Views: 23
  • 20240105_154217.jpg
    20240105_154217.jpg
    207.8 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:
  • Haha
Reactions: HFJ
Limpy needs help again. As I mentioned in previous post, I was breaking the plastic housing on my solinoid. Over torque or whatever. Now my issue is the starter is not engaging. I just completed putting my tractor together after some minor repairs. I made sure I didn't pinch ignition wires when installing hood. I also inspected wiring and nothing has disconnected. Other than me breaking tge solenoid, it was turning over good. I had to replace manifold.

My question: see pictures, are these interchangeable or do I have to add a wire to the "S" terminal on the new napa solenoid I purchased? My old one just had a "I" terminal. I tried gluing the housing together on my old one but it failed to work.

Better yet; how should I wire the new napa solenoid if it's compatable?

1947 2N 12v conversion, 3 wire alt.
I have not gone back and re-read all your posts to find out how your start system is wired. That solenoid may or may not work. Hopefully a couple answers from you will shed some light.

Does the wire you have on the I terminal supply power to the solenoid or a ground? If it supplies power from a starter button or start on a key switch the wire should be on the "S" (for start) terminal, move it over there. The "I" is generally not used other than to bypass a ballast resistor. If the wire supplies a ground, I am guessing you have the wrong solenoid. What is the part number of the solenoid?

edited to correct wording/spelling
 
I have not gone back and re-read all your posts to find out how your start system is wired. That solenoid may or may not work. Hopefully a couple answers from you will shed some light.

Does the wire you have on the I terminal supply power to the solenoid or a ground? If it supplies power from a starter button or start on a key switch the wire should be on the "S" (for start) terminal, move it over there. The "I" is generally not used other than to bypass a ballast resistor. If the wire supplies a ground, I am guessing you have the wrong solenoid. What is the part number of the solenoid?

edited to correct wording/spelling
Yes, the current wiring is set up as a ground from a push button switch to the old solinoid. "I". To explain better, ground wire from frame to a push button switch to the old solinoid. Is it possible the solinoid I got, new one is for positive or hot connection solinoid?
 
Yes, the current wiring is set up as a ground from a push button switch to the old solinoid. "I". To explain better, ground wire from frame to a push button switch to the old solinoid. Is it possible the solinoid I got, new one is for positive or hot connection solinoid?
Part number:

Wrong #​

 
Yes, the current wiring is set up as a ground from a push button switch to the old solinoid. "I". To explain better, ground wire from frame to a push button switch to the old solinoid. Is it possible the solinoid I got, new one is for positive or hot connection solinoid?
That solenoid you got looks like a ground base, so it needs power supplied, not a ground. What part number is it?
 
That solenoid you got looks like a ground base, so it needs power supplied, not a ground. What part number is it?
I think you nailed it Jim. Tractor store carries the right one. I'll have to get it tomorrow. Thanks
 
Last edited:
You need an insulated/isolated base. I will be back with a number if someone doesn't post one for you first.


Pretty sure this one is the one he needs.

https://www.amazon.ca/TISCO-TRACTORS-STARTER-SOLENOID-8N11450/dp/B00BW5QISK

Battery and all other circuits connect to the "BAT" terminal. Starter connects to the other large terminal. Wire from grounding pushbutton goes to the small "I" terminal. Solenoid is internally powered from the "BAT" terminal, the "I" terminal provides ground to activate the solenoid.

51b0lhKnbML._SL1000_.jpg
 
Pretty sure this one is the one he needs.

Battery and all other circuits connect to the "BAT" terminal. Starter connects to the other large terminal. wire from grounding pushbutton goes to the small "I" terminal. Solenoid is internaly powered from the "BAT" terminal, the "I" terminal provides ground to activate the solenoid.

View attachment 1496
That's the one Dave. I think the Napa sales rep was kinda new. Although I had the old one in my hand. Oh well, I guess I'll have to wait another day to hear this baby purring. Yah....right!
 
Pretty sure this one is the one he needs.

https://www.amazon.ca/TISCO-TRACTORS-STARTER-SOLENOID-8N11450/dp/B00BW5QISK

Battery and all other circuits connect to the "BAT" terminal. Starter connects to the other large terminal. Wire from grounding pushbutton goes to the small "I" terminal. Solenoid is internally powered from the "BAT" terminal, the "I" terminal provides ground to activate the solenoid.

View attachment 1496
Makes perfect sense. I was wondering why I didn't have voltage from my push button switch?? Duh!
 
I think you nailed it Jim. Tractor store carries the right one. I'll have to get it tomorrow. Thanks
Brown David got it. That one crosses to NAPA's ST 540. If you want one with the "back" mounting holes one is NAPA's ST 56. Those are 6 volt. A 12 volt one with the "back" mounting is NAPA ST 67. You would need to make a short jumper wire to go between the Battery cable post and the "S" terminal. Put your wire from the starter button on the "I" terminal. There are others, people will likely suggest as well.
 
Pretty sure this one is the one he needs.

https://www.amazon.ca/TISCO-TRACTORS-STARTER-SOLENOID-8N11450/dp/B00BW5QISK
Brown David got it. That one crosses to NAPA's ST 540. If you want one with the "back" mounting holes one is NAPA's ST 56. Those are 6 volt. A 12 volt one with the "back" mounting is NAPA ST 67. You would need to make a short jumper wire to go between the Battery cable post and the "S" terminal. Put your wire from the starter button on the "I" terminal. There are others, people will likely suggest as well.
Which post on the battery to the "s" terminal Jim?

Battery and all other circuits connect to the "BAT" terminal. Starter connects to the other large terminal. Wire from grounding pushbutton goes to the small "I" terminal. Solenoid is internally powered from the "BAT" terminal, the "I" terminal provides ground to activate the solenoid.

View attachment 1496
 
Adding the small wire between the post the from the battery is on and the "S" terminal was only if you use the ST 67, which has 4 posts and no internal connection between the battery and the pull in coil. Two large and two small one. As you posted the 8N11450 (Napa ST 540) have that connection built into them.

And the ST 540 will only work if you get the battery cable on the correct large post.
 
Limpy needs help again. As I mentioned in previous post, I was breaking the plastic housing on my solinoid. Over torque or whatever. Now my issue is the starter is not engaging. I just completed putting my tractor together after some minor repairs. I made sure I didn't pinch ignition wires when installing hood. I also inspected wiring and nothing has disconnected. Other than me breaking tge solenoid, it was turning over good. I had to replace manifold.

My question: see pictures, are these interchangeable or do I have to add a wire to the "S" terminal on the new napa solenoid I purchased? My old one just had a "I" terminal. I tried gluing the housing together on my old one but it failed to work.

Better yet; how should I wire the new napa solenoid if it's compatable?

1947 2N 12v conversion, 3 wire alt.
Once Again, your 2N Starter Motor and NEVER used a RELAY (SOLENOID), PEROID. ALL 9N & 2N Models (except 2N Warhorse) used a 1-WIRE 6V Starter Motor. PERIOD. You are trying to do something unorthodox. The RELAY you have pictured is not correct anyway for an 8N. The 8N Model introduced the 3-Wire Starter Motor that DID use the RELAY, p/n 8N-11450.

I advise you to read your ESSENTIAL MANUALS and invest in a 9N-11001 unit, then rewire system correctly. Starter Motors don't care if 6V or 12V, will opreta efine on either, so you do not need to go out and buy a 12V starter.
FORD 9N & 2N WIRING AFTER 1940.jpg


Tim Daley (MI)
 
Once Again, your 2N Starter Motor and NEVER used a RELAY (SOLENOID), PEROID. ALL 9N & 2N Models (except 2N Warhorse) used a 1-WIRE 6V Starter Motor. PERIOD. You are trying to do something unorthodox. The RELAY you have pictured is not correct anyway for an 8N. The 8N Model introduced the 3-Wire Starter Motor that DID use the RELAY, p/n 8N-11450.

I advise you to read your ESSENTIAL MANUALS and invest in a 9N-11001 unit, then rewire system correctly. Starter Motors don't care if 6V or 12V, will opreta efine on either, so you do not need to go out and buy a 12V starter. I have read essentils manual but unfortuneatly it applies to 6v system. View attachment 1536

Tim Daley
2N 8N...what? New starter...what?? RELAY for 8N...what? Never used a relay? Isn't that a solenoid in the diagrahm? I think this has all been discussed already. You don't mind if I try to wire a better quality enrich 4 pole, do you? If it doesn't work, I'll get a 3 pole ground activated...OK? I have manuals and read them. Don't need that advice. Would it be better for you if you didn't read my threads? You seem a little perturbed. Seems to bother you, I don't claim to be a mechanic, unless this forum is for mechanics only that know everything? Thats why I go to the forum or should we all just read the essentials manual and stay off YT? Sometimes ppl think outside the box Tim, PERIOD! It appears others do. I'm a humble man but won't tolerate being talked down on...period!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: HFJ
Time to take a break from YT. I guess I'm getting under certain members skin. Not intentional, just learning. I have never worked on an engine this indepth in my 65 yrs, I appreciate the members who respond with intentions to help rather than criticize. If you see my new threads in the future, try to keep in mind my level of expertise. I'm reaching out to you for your knowledge and experience. That's a compliment! I'll give tractor forum a try for awhile but I tend to build a comradary on forums and become attached. It's like starting a new class. There are several members that always respond to my posts with good tips and advice in a diplomatic manner. That's more important to me than a highly experienced mechanic with short patience and an attitude. I'd rather hear from somebody that has the same level experience and experienced the same issue rather than to hear from a person that has an attitude. I appreciate your responses and help gentlemen. For goodness sakes, it's free and you are giving your time to help me! I'm grateful!
 
Time to take a break from YT. I guess I'm getting under certain members skin. Not intentional, just learning. I have never worked on an engine this indepth in my 65 yrs, I appreciate the members who respond with intentions to help rather than criticize. If you see my new threads in the future, try to keep in mind my level of expertise. I'm reaching out to you for your knowledge and experience. That's a compliment! I'll give tractor forum a try for awhile but I tend to build a comradary on forums and become attached. It's like starting a new class. There are several members that always respond to my posts with good tips and advice in a diplomatic manner. That's more important to me than a highly experienced mechanic with short patience and an attitude. I'd rather hear from somebody that has the same level experience and experienced the same issue rather than to hear from a person that has an attitude. I appreciate your responses and help gentlemen. For goodness sakes, it's free and you are giving your time to help me! I'm grateful!
Don't walk away. This happens, a couple of us have been involved so follow your threads and know what you are working on/with. To someone just reading one of the later ones, like this one, they may not catch the model of your tractor or that it has been modified and you are working with what you have, where the info is not in the post they are reading. I, and I am sure others here, will admit to being off base with a reply at times, if we miss the back story. Good luck.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top