ISO a 226 starter

jaoneill

Member
Looking for a Delco starter for my new to me Tractomotive loader with the late Allis 226 engine, serial #17-14918-M. I've been told that it's a WD45 or D17 engine, starter has a ten tooth gear and 3 bolt mounting flange. Starter that is on it is an Autolite with a bunged up drive gear and I haven't had any luck finding parts. This Awfulite starter appears to have been recently rebuilt but with an incorrect starter drive which at full extension only engages the ring gear by about 1/4"; ie the stripped gear. As can be seen in the pic, there is a "shadow" line on the shaft, likely where the original drive lived. Thought is that rather than spin my wheels trying to find the correct drive, if it even exists, I would switch it to a Delco with decent parts availability.
mvphoto105275.jpg
 
A WD-45 engine serial number would read 45-XXXXXX, so yours is a D-17 engine. Trouble is a D-17 starter comes in from the front alongside the oil pan and has TWO bolts. A WD-45 starter comes in from the rear with one pointed setscrew. So, I have no idea what you've got or with flywheel you have.
 
(quoted from post at 20:55:15 05/03/23) A WD-45 engine serial number would read 45-XXXXXX, so yours is a D-17 engine. Trouble is a D-17 starter comes in from the front alongside the oil pan and has TWO bolts. A WD-45 starter comes in from the rear with one pointed setscrew. So, I have no idea what you've got or with flywheel you have.
That is the serial #, so it's a D-17 engine, starter comes in from the front alongside the oil pan, but it does have a three bolt flange. Since it's not a D-17 tractor, but a commercial loader, the head may simply reflect the application. The AutoLite starter is one letter off what is listed in my parts book. Book lists #MCL-6009A actual starter plate reads MCL-6009B. All that aside this one appears to be toast unless I can come up with the proper drive unit. I would have to defer to those better versed in this than I am but it seems that a 17 starter should work if I swap the 2 bolt head for the three off the Autolite.
 
Your serial number and starter flange description indicate you have a D17 engine. The WD45 starter had no flange and was held in
with a set screw.
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:25 05/04/23) Your serial number and starter flange description indicate you have a D17 engine. The WD45 starter had no flange and was held in
with a set screw.
A D17 it is, but an early one. I've been told that the numbers indicate a '58-'59 build date which is in sync with the 1959 build date of the loader.
 
(quoted from post at 13:49:22 05/05/23) I believe I have what you are looking for. I will verify this evening.
Awesome, I will also check this afternoon on the configuration of the bolt holes but I saw a new ChiCom "aftermarket" G226 starter out of Canada that includes the Tractomotive T-10 loader in the list of things it will fit. The interesting thing is that this ChiCom unit only has 2 bolts (my original has 3). I'm thinking that perhaps the 2 holes line up and a replacement wouldn't need a 3 bolt flange.
 
(quoted from post at 21:15:00 05/05/23) Found 2 starters, one autolite MAX 4080
6F 3 bolt and a Delco Remy 1107695 7B15
two hole.
Would you know if they are both compatible with the G226 (D-17)?

I don't believe that the first one (the one with the new looking gear) would work. The one that I took off is +/- 4" from the face of the flange to the outside tip of the drive housing and the flywheel ring gear is right at the interior of the nose (the drive gear would need to be close to the nose bushing).

The other one shows the drive gear where it would be in the "engaged" position on mine.

This post was edited by jaoneill on 05/05/2023 at 07:07 pm.
 
The two bolt one was actually mounted on
a Gleaner E3 combine with a D-17 style Z
code engine. The 3 bolt one I'm not sure
what it's out of.
 
Which one is the 2 hole?

I don't believe that the first one (the one with the new looking gear) would work. The one that I took off is +/- 4" from the face of the flange to the outside tip of the drive housing and the flywheel ring gear is right at the interior of the nose (the drive gear would need to be close to the nose bushing).

The other one shows the drive gear where it would be in the "engaged" position on mine.

This post was edited by jaoneill on 05/05/2023 at 07:13 pm.
 
I'm thinking that the 2 hole should work. Would you please check the length of the nose? Face of flange to furthest edge of the gear; and also the diameter of the "shoulder" at the flange.

I'm curious, I don't believe I've ever seen a drive with the gear in the "engage" location when at rest. How does that work?

Jim

This post was edited by jaoneill on 05/06/2023 at 04:08 am.
 

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