John Deere 300 Industrial and a wade of JB weld

[641_Dave]

Hey guys, I'm looking at a John Deere 300 Industrial diesel that starts good, runs good and has some new parts. The only thing that really concerns me is this area here that I found some JB weld. I suppose it froze at one time and was "repaired". There's no leak and I think it's from the water jacket. The price of the tractor is fair in my opinion but how concerned should I be about this hole and repair?

 

[Jim.ME]

Hey guys, I'm looking at a John Deere 300 Industrial diesel that starts good, runs good and has some new parts. The only thing that really concerns me is this area here that I found some JB weld. I suppose it froze at one time and was "repaired". There's no leak and I think it's from the water jacket. The price of the tractor is fair in my opinion but how concerned should I be about this hole and repair? View attachment 2200

I quicker think it threw a rod based on the location. it is too far below the block drain petcock to be in the water jacket. Paint missing on the block and head, but paint on parts attached to them, indicates it may have been rebuilt.

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto I agree with Jim.ME. Block appears to have been ventilated from a loose piston connecting rod

 

[641_Dave]

I quicker think it threw a rod based on the location. it is too far below the block drain petcock to be in the water jacket. Paint missing on the block and head, but paint on parts attached to them, indicates it may have been rebuilt.

If that's the case, how big of a red flag is this?
Is this just filling a hole to the crankcase, and if so, am I depending on a wad of JB weld to hold any pressure?

 

[Jim.ME]

If that's the case, how big of a red flag is this?
Is this just filling a hole to the crankcase, and if so, am I depending on a wad of JB weld to hold any pressure?

That spot would be in the crankcase area. It will have minimal air pressure as long as the engine breather tube is open. The area only sees splash oil, it is not in a flooded reservoir. Those type holes have been patched in various engines in various manners for years, with no ill affect other than maybe seeping some oil. The industrial loader frame keeps most of the forces off the engine block as compared to a farm loader so while it should be monitored for cracking around it, it is not likely to spread.

Given the paint is missing (as I noted before) and the injection pump appears to have been through a shop (paint is gray, not yellow and there are numbers stamped near the ID tag) I am thinking it was likely properly rebuilt after this happened. Most shade tree patch jobs would have the yellow paint remains still on everything; from ones I have seen.

I don't see it as a big red flag. It isn't hidden, which some dressing up and paint could have done. What info does the seller have about this?

 

[641_Dave]

That spot would be in the crankcase area. It will have minimal air pressure as long as the engine breather tube is open. The area only sees splash oil, it is not in a flooded reservoir. Those type holes have been patched in various engines in various manners for years, with no ill affect other than maybe seeping some oil. The industrial loader frame keeps most of the forces off the engine block as compared to a farm loader so while it should be monitored for cracking around it, it is not likely to spread.

Given the paint is missing (as I noted before) and the injection pump appears to have been through a shop (paint is gray, not yellow and there are numbers stamped near the ID tag) I am thinking it was likely properly rebuilt after this happened. Most shade tree patch jobs would have the yellow paint remains still on everything; from ones I have seen.

I don't see it as a big red flag. It isn't hidden, which some dressing up and paint could have done. What info does the seller have about this?

Back story — The guy I'm possibly buying this tractor from runs our local tractor repair shop although he didn't make this repair. He got the tractor in a trade for other work from this tractor's previous owner. The repair guy that owns it now had put the injector pump and a rebuilt hydraulic pump. He mentioned the engine appears to have been "into" albeit we don't know to what extent. He's using it now to put out hay.

If I buy the tractor he's going to replace the 12 rubber hydraulic lines, change the oil, front bushing at the yoke and a couple of little nit picks that I asked for. The tractor starts easy and runs good albeit I've been rolling a 1958 ford 641 for the last 10 years so this is my first venture into a diesel with a loader. The loader bushings are good, all hydraulics are fast and strong, two new 12 volt batteries.

I trust the guy I'm buying it from but pretty much 95% of my tractor buying decisions are based off of what I've read here on YT. I figured I'd run this by the YT village elders first.

Btw, I've been a member here since we've had internet but I've not been around much and don't have access to my old email. In regards to green iron, the only experience with that is a brass tag B that I salvaged and delivered from Texas to a cool guy in Iowa. That had to be around 2001-03-ish.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So is the paint missing or painted black? It kinda makes mr salesman’s story fishy if it’s not painted because it would rust right now and yet you hope he didn't paint it so the epoxy bonds. The repair appears wet in a circle around it after the rest of the machine has been cleaned up well. This repair was done not very long ago if that's bare metal. It also is bare clean or different color recently so the block was out. Yet the 3 bolt holes for putting it in a rotator stand to rebuild it are not clean you can see them on the left side. Means not much was probably done while it was out patched together I would guess replaced rod piston and cap and away it goes.
What does actually concern me is what are those pipe plugs. Oil passage? Pretty low for a coolant washout plug but it is where the block gets fat so they could be. And everyone else seems in agreement its in the crankcase area. It looked kinda high to me like about where the liners end though they should be in the skinny part of the block not the fat, defiantly shaped like a connecting rod punch though and it could be the picture and viewing it on the computer. Whats the engine oil pressure like? Any sign of water in the oil? back of the cap nasty? Just got changed? If he's using it should be nice and black if its clean its sitting not risking operation till its sold. The motors for these are not as cheap as some id be thinking 4000 for a used one about the same by the time your done if you buy a block and the pieces doing it yourself. If it has good oil pressure not making noise it still might be worth the risk if he doesn't want anything for it see what happens but this one is not without risk.
And yes those little guys wing over good in the cold up here too.

 

[641Dave]

I've decided to buy this one and I have a few more questions. First off, I'm missing some tin over the battery compartment. The top and right side from the operator's station. I know the tin matches for the JD 1020 but I was wondering if tin from other models would match? So I can start watching the fence rows for possible donors.

My second question is would this tractor handle a 6 foot box blade ok? I'm coming from using a ford 641 with a 5 foot box blade and have never had an issue with lack of power. Tractor data is showing both tractors are comparable horsepower wise but I figured I'd ask while waiting on parts to get the JD 300 fully functional.

Thanks!

 

[641Dave]

So is the paint missing or painted black? It kinda makes mr salesman’s story fishy if it’s not painted because it would rust right now and yet you hope he didn't paint it so the epoxy bonds. The repair appears wet in a circle around it after the rest of the machine has been cleaned up well. This repair was done not very long ago if that's bare metal. It also is bare clean or different color recently so the block was out. Yet the 3 bolt holes for putting it in a rotator stand to rebuild it are not clean you can see them on the left side. Means not much was probably done while it was out patched together I would guess replaced rod piston and cap and away it goes.
What does actually concern me is what are those pipe plugs. Oil passage? Pretty low for a coolant washout plug but it is where the block gets fat so they could be. And everyone else seems in agreement its in the crankcase area. It looked kinda high to me like about where the liners end though they should be in the skinny part of the block not the fat, defiantly shaped like a connecting rod punch though and it could be the picture and viewing it on the computer. Whats the engine oil pressure like? Any sign of water in the oil? back of the cap nasty? Just got changed? If he's using it should be nice and black if its clean its sitting not risking operation till its sold. The motors for these are not as cheap as some id be thinking 4000 for a used one about the same by the time your done if you buy a block and the pieces doing it yourself. If it has good oil pressure not making noise it still might be worth the risk if he doesn't want anything for it see what happens but this one is not without risk.
And yes those little guys wing over good in the cold up here too.

The oil looks good, she starts easy, runs good and everything I can tell is a go so far. The block has obviously been out but to what extent the repair was is still a mystery. The owner has been putting out hay with it and pushed up a few brush piles with it. I drove it but not worked it. I'm gambling on it but so far even if I did replace the block, I'd still be under what most comparable tractor's with a loader are going for around here in East Texas. Thanks for the info and insight.

 

[Tx Jim]

After performing a battery cover part #(AT20026) search it appears that part # fits 51 JD tractor models. Battery side panel(T22087) has fewer tractor models shown in part # search

 

[Fixingfarmer]

That should be plenty tractor for the box blade it looks like it has some weight in the rear that it needs

 

[stevieb49829]

I would agree with the assessment of a rod out the side of the block. My only two concerns would be: Did they turn the crank (answer: probably, because you have good oil pressure and no audible knock). Second one would be get that gunk off the hole and take a real look at the internal damage to the block. I'm with Fixing Farmer on the oil galleries. All four of those plugs cover up cross bores made during manufacturing. Are any of those damaged inside the block? A chisel and flashlight would answer that. Then fashion a real patch, and either braze it to the block, or screw it on with a good sealer of some sort. JB weld may fit the bill, but I wouldn't leave it as the only thing that holds the patch. steve