Kinze 8 row corn planter to 6 row

andy r

Member
Been planting with an 8 row Kinze 30" spacing planter for close to 10 years and harvesting with a 4 row narrow head (was a good match at the time considering a 4 row combine). Going to a 6 row corn head for the 2017 crop (combine handles 6 rows fine but not 8). Due to contours and terraces my combine has to be a multiple of the planter. My planter is equipped just the way I want it. Dry fertilizer, tire drive, flat fold markers, Great Plains fertilizer openers, new double heavy duty down pressure springs, seed and fertilizer extensions, precision units, seed firmers, etc. This is a rigid planter (non folding). Sometimes it can be tricky getting down the road, in and out of gates, and putting it away off season. Also, a 6 row planter is actually worth more than an eight row rigid. So, my plans are to take two rows off and cut down the main frame. Here is the decision I have to make. 1) I could take a planting unit off of each side, cut the main tube off roughly 30 inches on each side, move two lift wheels in on each side, and remount the marker units on both sides. Also, all of the fertilizer hoppers would all have to be moved. The front bar for the fertilizer openers would also have to be cut on each side and re-bolted. or, 2) Since Kinze bolted the tongue to the main frame, I could just move the tongue over 30 inches, and take two units off of only one side. Move only one pair of lift wheels. I would only have to remount one marker unit, move only one fertilizer hopper, and cut/re-bolt only one side of the fertilize bar. Also, by moving only one side I do not have to disassemble/move the seed and fertilizer transmissions or the rubber tire on rubber tire drive. Seems like a lot less work moving the tongue and cutting one side. A new Kinze planter equipped the same sells for around $30,000 at a dealer. I think I would be lucky to get $5,000 - $6,000 for my 8 row rigid. After mine is cut down it would appear identical to a factory 6 row. Seems like I would be money ahead cutting mine down and time ahead doing everything from one side. A think it is a 2 day project. Any thoughts or ideas????
 
So if I'm following you I gather you got a different, bigger combine? If your 4 row head fits on the new combine I would continue using that. You can just travel faster and get just about as much done. Also unless you use a grain cart you will not be able to make it from end to end with 6 row head. Usually it is more important to get planting done in a timely manner then harvest. Can that still be accomplished with smaller planter? If you don't have different combine yet I would consider getting one with 8 row head. You can buy used 8 row combine for same price as used 6 row machine. Not trying to change your mind, just throwing out some considerations.
 
Things must be a lot different where you are than here in central Kansas. We can't hardly give away a 6 row planter and an 8 row is easily worth twice that of a 6 row, but even 8 rows are getting pretty cheap. Everyone going to the huge equipment.
 
New to me combine is too wide to put my 4 row narrow John Deere head on. Four row wide would work, but not a 4 row narrow. I have felt the same way about being able to plant a little faster, but I really want to go to this newer combine with the Ag Leader monitor, side hill leveling, and bigger hopper. Some people have put 8 row heads on this combine, but Deere never recommended it. To easy to break a final drive or the king pin on the feeder house where it pivots.
 
Find a 12 row. Planters are nighty cheap these days.

Don't know anyone happy with going to a smaller planter. About half way across the first field, you are gonna say what did I do........

Paul
 
Forget the combine unless you can use the 4 or 8 row heads. We run an 8 row head on a 7720 combine. Some of the neighbors have 6 on theirs. We went to the 8 since the planter was an 8row. Have a 4 row already. It went on an old uni.
You will not be happy with how much slower it plants as a 6 row. If you want to try it just take the drive chains off the outside rows and lock the row units up so they don't run in the ground then all you have to do is shorten the markers or drive with it on the opposite side of the tractor. In a few rounds you will be glad you can in an hour be back to 8 rows.
 
I have been harvesting with a 6 row head and planting with a 8 row for years. Sure there is strips that will end with 2 or 4 rows left to get, but not a big deal.
 
I help my friend with his corn harvest, couple hundred acers, every year. He plants with six row planter and has been harvesting with his old Gleaner with a four row head the last couple years. He has a bigger combine with a six row head but says he's trying to save wear and tear on it so he never has to ever buy a new one again. He does use it on his wheat and beans. His dryer can't keep up with the six row head anyway.
 
Yes, Deere 6620 sidehill. I own a 6620 level land as well, but want to utilize the benefits of the sidehill. I have a good friend that ran 8 row corn heads on several Deere 6620's over the years. At 80+ years of age he just sold out last fall. Three 6620's that all had ran 8 row corn heads in hills. He also had a 8820 and a 9550. Most all of them had broken at least one or both final drives and the king pin on the throat. Him and his hired men said the biggest problem was the capacity of the clean grain elevator. They said if the belt slipped once figure a new belt was in order ASAP. My 6620 sidehill is nice, but I think an 8 row is just too much for an old 6620 in hills.
 
As I expected. I had 6620 4 row wide then 9500 8 narrow. Head is too heavy for 6620 and with 8 rows tank would fill fast. Change is constant and produces a ripple effect. Sounds like you know the answer to your situation.
 
Before you make irreversible changes to you planter, have you considered keeping the frame as-is for a one year trial and running it as a six row machine? I would think if would be fairly simpler to: remove the outer two planter units and fertilizer openers; take out outer two the fertilizer augers; plug off the outer two fertilizer outlets; and shorten the markers to work for six rows. If it pans out you could modify or trade the planter in the following year. If it does nor work out you can easily convert it back to eight rows.
 

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