Kory 5566 running gear wheel bearings

[mikewood869]

I decided to repack the wheel bearings on a Kory 5566 running gear and add some grease zerks. I took off the front left hub and the inner bearing in the hub spun. I got the bearing not to spin. Anyways... Anyone know if there is supposed to be a gap between the bearing and the seal? There is about a 1/4" of a gap between the bearing (& race) and the seal. The bearing (& race) and seal is in all the way. The number on the bearing is: lm67048 and the number on the race is: lm67010. It's a hl bearing. The new bearing has sst on it. The bearing that I pulled off that running gear fits on a Ford 3000 front spindle for another cross reference. If anyone happens to have the bearing size or numbers that would be great. The more I think of it, that space might be for grease

The 1st video is how the hub came off the spindle
New bearing in hub

The 2nd video is with the new bearing and race installed
Old bearing in hub

 

[caterpillar guy]

Yup some will have a space and some don't have as much. Why would you put an old seal back in with a new bearing? Shoup will have the bearings and so will most parts houses. Those are a pretty common bearing the 67010 fits on our nothrill disc hubs 67048 is also a common bearing so should be easy to get most should have them on the shelf. Wash out the hub clean enough to eat out of it and grease the bearings and races then fill the cap with 90wt when you flip it up to put on and all will be good. The oil will mix with the grease to thin it down some over time and yet not leak out the seal. Will be sort of like a cornhead grease consistency when done.

 

[Jim.ME]

I decided to repack the wheel bearings on a Kory 5566 running gear and add some grease zerks. I took off the front left hub and the inner bearing in the hub spun. I got the bearing not to spin. Anyways... Anyone know if there is supposed to be a gap between the bearing and the seal? There is about a 1/4" of a gap between the bearing (& race) and the seal. The bearing (& race) and seal is in all the way. The number on the bearing is: lm67048 and the number on the race is: lm67010. It's a hl bearing. The new bearing has sst on it. The bearing that I pulled off that running gear fits on a Ford 3000 front spindle for another cross reference. If anyone happens to have the bearing size or numbers that would be great. The more I think of it, that space might be for grease

The 1st video is how the hub came off the spindle
New bearing in hub

The 2nd video is with the new bearing and race installed
Old bearing in hub

View attachment 71223

You could try contacting Kory.

Kory contact info

I found this that says it is a replacement hub for a Kory 5566 and it gives bearing and seal numbers as well. any hubs I have replaced used the same bearings as original, however YMMV.

Kory replacement hub

 

[mikewood869]

Yup some will have a space and some don't have as much. Why would you put an old seal back in with a new bearing? Shoup will have the bearings and so will most parts houses. Those are a pretty common bearing the 67010 fits on our nothrill disc hubs 67048 is also a common bearing so should be easy to get most should have them on the shelf. Wash out the hub clean enough to eat out of it and grease the bearings and races then fill the cap with 90wt when you flip it up to put on and all will be good. The oil will mix with the grease to thin it down some over time and yet not leak out the seal. Will be sort of like a cornhead grease consistency when done.

I was starting to figure. The seals won't be into Wednesday. I thought the seals were going to be special but they aren't. I can eat put of that hub. I take it I can't put # 2 grease in it and just grease the inner bearing and work my way out? It looks like the hub is going to take a tube of grease. Looks like a few more days of rain before I could pull the other hubs off .

 

[mikewood869]

You could try contacting Kory.

Kory contact info

I found this that says it is a replacement hub for a Kory 5566 and it gives bearing and seal numbers as well. any hubs I have replaced used the same bearings as original, however YMMV.

Kory replacement hub

I did call them, and the bearings are the same price as the bearing shop. It looks like its cheaper to get that kit than to get the bearings and seal separate

 

[caterpillar guy]

Yup you can do that . Then add some more to the hub for the gap between the bearings. That is why I use the gear oil when I pull the caps to check them it helps to thin the grease where it has started to dry out some and get hard. this will soften it and theoretically be about the softness of cornhead grease. It is what I do up to you on what you do. Just if there is a big cavity with no place for the grease to be held up to the bearings they can run dry. Grease fittings work well just it takes a bit of grease to fill some hubes and then all that is wasted next time it comes apart for service. One of the reasons we use old grease on bolt threads it gets used up without being just put on a paper then thrown in the stove to burn.

 

[mikewood869]

Still my fault for not pulling the caps off and checking the wheel bearings to see if they had grease, but this is what you get for being told that the wheel bearings were repacked over the winter. The front left wasn’t too bad, but the front right is crusty. They have both spun. I can’t wait to see what the rears are going to be like. Still waiting on 2 seals from O’Reillys that should be here by Monday or Tuesday. The place where I bought the first 2 are back ordered until July or August

 

[300guy]

You really don't need to fill the hub with grease. The bearings are the ones that need to be FULL of grease and then wrap the bearing with a lot of grease!! Cover the race with a lot of grease and install the bearing and seal on the inside of the hub. You can do it by hand or with a bearing packer. For the hub take some grease on your fingers and coat the inside of the hub so it won't rust. I have don thousands of wheel bearings this way and have never had one fail. I was taught this by an IH shop foreman who had been doing the same thing for 45 years when I started back in the late 60's. This is the same way I have also been doing it on cars even with disk brakes and have never had one fail.